Working on a Tecumseh HM80 engine

13 years ago

I'm not much of a mechanic, but I'm increasingly frustrated with spending significant money for half-ass repairs on my Troy-Bilt tiller (Tecumseh HM80 engine). I've tried every so called repair shop in my area over the past 5 years and they simply have no idea of what they're doing on my machine - and for this frustration I'm expected to pay a premium? So, I've decided I have to be doing more of my own maintenance on it.

Recently I decided to replace all the pieces of old fuel lines, and all went well until I came to the main line from the fuel tank to the carb - seems Tecumseh has that line threading through the innards of the engine itself (it's tucked tightly about an inch down from the top between the block and the flywheel housing (?)). I was able to work it loose and to pull out the old one, but my replacement line is just a bit thicker than the old line, and there's no way it'll thread it's way through that tight gap!

So, my question is, will I be able to run the line over the top of the space over the flywheel/block, instead of thru them? The shroud/cover will still go over all nicely, but I wonder if I'm subjecting the line to increased heat by so doing (???). If so, is it possible to wrap it with a high temp wrapping?

Thanks for potential responses from those who know more than this novice.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (9)

loger_gw
13 years ago
With the large variety of line at the Auto Stores and Small Engine Shops, I feel you could make a transition to adapt/fit in that area (just as short as needed. Such as, find the hose that will fit in the tight area, then adapt to your hose.

At times I have to use a punch to stretch a hose to start it (maybe for an hour to give me time to get it on. Please post a pic of the tight area and one large enough to show your idea. Even use rope, wire or Etc to show the layout of your ides of re-routing.
baymee
13 years ago
The hose is a special size and cannot be bought at MY auto parts Napa store. It goes behind a guide to hold it near the engine for warmth and away from the turning flywheel. There is also a hole in the shroud the can chew up the outer part of an oversized hose.

Stens sells the hose and you might be able to get a length at your dealer, or use Tygon tubing, which fits easily in there.

If you are able to get the hose, cut a 1" long piece of threaded 1/4" lag bolt of the end. Use a grinder to make a point on the other end. Thread halfway into the old hose and halfway into the new hose. Lube it well with silicone or lithium grease and very gently wiggle it back and forth, pulling from the carburetor side only and feed in from the tank side. This usually always works.

If you lost the hose, you'll have to pull the shroud and the flywheel and then you'll have easy access to the hose.
Related Professionals
Richmond Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers · Idaho Falls Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers · Kansas City Landscape Contractors · Atlantic City Landscape Contractors · Murfreesboro Landscape Contractors · Charleston Landscape Contractors · Monroe Landscape Contractors · Platteville Landscape Contractors · Kalispell Landscape Contractors · Springfield Tile and Stone Contractors · Shreveport Tile and Stone Contractors · Marietta Tile and Stone Contractors · Akron Tile and Stone Contractors · San Francisco Tile and Stone Contractors · Kalispell Tile and Stone Contractors
andyma_gw
13 years ago
What if you just opened up the holes in the shroud? I just ran a piece of rod through th teh hole until it came out the other side then I stuck the hose on the wire.
drfugawe
Original Author
13 years ago
Loger, thanks for your response - here's a YouTube vid of a guy putting a new fuel line on the same engine I'm working on -( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iACSk4arfqA ) it shows the space better than any pics I could give you. He makes it look so easy, but my replacement line (11/32 OD) just won't push through there - to my eye, it looks just like the line I took off, but it must be thicker - ???

baymee, I wish I had the tools you mention, but as I say, I'm not much of a mechanic - and I don't have a mechanic's arsenal of tools. But basically, what you're saying is NO, I should not try to lay the fuel line over the top of the flywheel under the shroud. I'll look for 2' of 1/4' tygon (no 'dealers' locally, unless I go to the 'Big City') but I notice Amazon will only sell 10' for $28! Thanks for your assistance.

andyma - sorry, I can't envision your idea - why is 'opening up the holes' any different than just running the line under the shroud and over the flywheel? Thanks for your response.

Here is a link that might be useful: PART 1 OF 2 - HOW TO REPLACE THE FUEL LINE ON YOUR SNOWBLOWER - TECUMSEH SNOWKING ENGINE
loger_gw
13 years ago
Drfugawe, That was a good youtube video. It appears with some soap on the fuel line, some wire would pull it through the tight area. The challenge might be attaching the wire to the fuel line w/o increasing the size. The fuel line is reinforced, I feel cutting a taper and wiring through or around it should pull w/o breaking.
baymee
13 years ago
i like loger's idea. Hanger wire might be a good choice with a small sharp barb on the end like a fish hook.
drfugawe
Original Author
13 years ago
OK all - I'll try to get some replacement fuel line with a smaller OD than the old stuff, and then I'll work on hooking a piece of hanger wire to it - and I'll grease it up as well. I'll report back on how the job went.

Thanks for all the ideas.
john
loger_gw
13 years ago
Liquid Dishwashing Soap IMO will cause less damage to the line due to heat (+ it will rinse off easy). Opinions?

If your present hose is close as mentioned, give it a try (the lub might allow it to slip past the restrictions. Plus, if it's not too stiff it might reduce a fraction from the pulling.
ericwi
13 years ago
Rubber deteriorates when exposed to oil and grease, so neither should be used with rubber parts. But fuel line, manufactured since the 1950's, is more likely to be made of synthetic rubber, and it might be resistant to oil and grease. It depends on the synthetic rubber compound. I would use soap as an assembly lubricant, if it was needed.