May I presume you are checking the intake suction by placing part of your palm against the intake manifold and cranking the engine?
If so, you might not be getting a true indication of "induction FLOW", and it is the volume of FLOW of induction air that draws fuel out of the carb, not simply raw suction.
An engine that has a clogged or partially clogged muffler, or some type of restriction in an intake valve port can still allow for "sucking" against a hand palm, or a sheet of paper laid against the intake manifold. But, that is not a true indication of actual induction air flow volume. Just something for you to think about so you can look at all things that might affect whether a carb will be able to provide fuel, or not.
If this engine has sat in long term storage (more than a year), things like a blocked muffler must be considered, along with other usual suspects.
See your photo below and make certain that the main jet orifice and the idle fuel jet orifice are clean and open.
You need to buff off the little layer of crud clinging to the bowl mounting pedestal and any that may be showing in the bottom of the bowl. That kind of crud can shed flakes large enough to interfere with fuel flow through a jet if turned loose when tightening the bowl nut.
Have you tried spraying a 2 second shot of spray carb cleaner into the carb throat (or into the open intake port with carb removed) to see if the engine offers to run at all?
A 2 second shot of carb cleaner should yield about 2 or 3 seconds of running if the engine wants to go, but lacks fuel.
Was the engine running before you cleaned carb? Or was the carb cleaning aimed at getting the engine going?

Hi there Mownie. First, thanks for the words.

Yes, 'twas the palm of my hand to see if a valve seat had made its way somewhere it shouldn't be. Haven't checked the muffler. Haven't sprayed carb cleaner or starter fluid into the intake w/o carb attached. Will try these things.

It quit in late Oct just as I was putting it away for the winter. My 'operation' was to get it running. By the way, I have to clean the carb every year for some reason. This year, it won't start. The gas tank was pretty dirty too, so I removed and cleaned. There is a pep-cock, w/fine mesh screen inside the tank.

I will certainly run through the short list of suspects, then return.

You say "it quit running just as I was putting it away for the winter."
It quit while it was running? If so, what exactly took place the moment it quit running?
Or, was this a case of "I need to use it just once more but it will not start darn it!", and so I waited til spring to pick up where I left off in Oct?

Hi there Mownie. First, thanks for the words.

Yes, 'twas the palm of my hand to see if a valve seat had made its way somewhere it shouldn't be. Haven't checked the muffler. Haven't sprayed carb cleaner or starter fluid into the intake w/o carb attached. Will try these things.

It quit in late Oct just as I was putting it away for the winter. My 'operation' was to get it running. By the way, I have to clean the carb every year for some reason. This year, it won't start. The gas tank was pretty dirty too, so I removed and cleaned. There is a pep-cock, w/fine mesh screen inside the tank.

I will certainly run through the short list of suspects, then return.

Skippy

There are to many small orifices in these carbs to list them all. They all must be clean in order for the engine to run as it should.

The great people at Outdoor Power Equipment are a great source of knowledge for these types of engines.

Just copy and paste the link and you will have all the information you need and how to do it when it comes to your carb.

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/kohler_walbro_whg_adjustable_carb.asp

Hi hippy: Awesome! Will check that out.

Hi Mownie,

Yes, it quit at idle while I was putting it away for winter, just as I was done mowing. It was at idle and just stopped. At no avail would it start again. I rolled it into its home in the garage, shut the gas valve, emptied the bowl and left 'till a week ago.

That info about the idle jet and the main jet is very helpful by the way. I enjoy this knowledge.

This may help.

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/kohler_walbro_whg_adjustable_carb.asp

Hi Mownie,

A quick spray of starter fluid does not start the engine (carb off). I plan to check spark and muffler/exhaust manifold, which is behind a large metal shroud in the front. By the way, a Ford 100 Tractor Owner's Manual came with it when I picked it up from the seller some years ago.

There is no spark. I removed the plug, connected the plug to wire, grounded the body of the plug, turned over the engine. No spark. How do I test the coil, or what is my next step? See pic.

Remove the points cover.

Check and clean all wire connections to the coil, condenser and points.

Rotate the engine slowly (by hand if possible) to confirm that the points are opening and closing. If Yes... Rotate the engine until the points are closed. If no.. Adjust the points until you can see them opening and closing.. At this time you are just testing and will set the points to the correct setting later.

Turn the ignition on (do not turn the engine over with the key).
Use a small flat tipped screw driver to open the points manually and watch for any sparks. If you have sparks. Good. If no sparks. Turn the IGN off and Clean the point contacts. Emery board nail file is great for cleaning them. IGN on and check for sparks again with a screw driver. If you now have sparks. Good. If not replace the points & condenser.

With sparks.... Remove the plug and ground it to the engine. Use the screw driver to open the points and watch for the plug to fire. If first no fire try a few different plugs. If still no spark. Run a jumper wire from BAT+ to the Coil + and try again. No sparks... Replace the coil.

If you are now getting fire at the plug. Check the wire from the switch to the coil. If it is OK. You should now be able to see the plug fire when grounded to the engine and using the key to turn the engine over..

Here is a small trick to check the point gap on these engines. When turning the engine over with the key in the start position and the plug is not firing. Release the key and watch for the plug to fire as the engine turns with the switch in the ON position.. Again Spin the engine with the key and release it while checking for the plug to fire. If no. Do it again and watch for spark when you release the key. If you have spark doing this. The point gap is to wide. Set it at .020 (20 thousands) to start. And check again..

I have saw these engine points needing to be set as close as .010 to run correctly once warmed up.