If you take care of the machine, it should last you a long time. Many belts can be had at any local NAPA (car parts) dealer.

Donn,

If you haven't already, you will be able to find the correct V-belt online. And since you can use all four edges of the hammers, you have in effect three unused "lives" left in your shredder. You should have over a decade of useful life left in your shredder-chipper.

I don't know of anyone who makes a shredder-only machine. But even if you don't use it, the chipper section can aid your shredding ability. For example, a couple of years ago I processed a bunch of grapevines. They would just wrap around the rotor of the hammer mill. So I fed them in through the chipper chute and that proved to be the solution.

The chipper flywheel also adds extra rotational momentum to your machine.

MM

I've got a Troy Bilt Super Tomahawk 47266 chipper and had the same problems trying to order a belt.

I'm assuming your machine takes the same size belt as mine, which would be 5/8" x 29". Any decent auto parts or outdoor equipment shop should be able to order one (just make sure it's power rated!). You can also get kevlar belts, etc. I think I paid $8 for a standard power rated belt, and about $13 for a Kevlar belt.

Your machine should have plenty of life left in it.

Troy Bilt had several part numbers listed for this chipper over the years, some that were 29" and some were 29 1/4". There should be no issues adjusting the idler pulley on yours to work with a standard 29" belt regardless of which it was speced with.

I use my ~1989 Troy-bilt Tomahawk Model 15028 mainly for shredding leaves (for my six compost piles).

I had to buy a belt from the local mower shop; think it was a Bates or Gates brand. My choice was one size down from what the kid at the shop was going to sell me, and it works fine.

As the third owner of the chipper/shredder; I hope not too much responsibility for the oil-burning Tecumseh motor is my fault. I never changed the oil since it had to be refilled constantly. The mechanics at work dislike Tecumseh engines; and like Briggs and Stratton much more.

The Tecumseh blew out the side and I plan to order a B&S engine to replace it. This should cost about $270.

I looked around at other small chipper/shredders, and did not find anything I liked. My Troy-bilt is used about 50 hours a years, and never required any repairs to the non-engine part.

Does anybody know the HP of the Tecumseh HS40-55568K engine used in the Troy-Bilt 11427ST chipper/shredder?

Bruce, this exact question has been aswered on the Topic:

"Troy-bilt Tomahawk" thread of this forum.

The 'Search' feature at the bottom of the page will direct you to the thread.

Bob

I have a Tomahawk chipper/shredder 47276. Does anyone know where I can find a chipper blade for it?

Well I make Brand New Chipper/Shredder Blade kits from the highest quality US Steel. If your looking for a new chipper or Shredder Blade kit for any Troy-Bilt, Craftsman, etc. Chipper/Shredder/Vac Shoot me an E-mail at Konundrum76@aol.com . Tell me the blade you need and I will machine it for you brand new. Master Machinst here for over 30 yeras. Born and raised in Good Ol' New Jersey.
KONUNDRUM76@AOL.COM

I have a 1991 Troy-Bilt Super Tomahawk 5Hp Chipper/Shredder. I have never flipped or reversed the flails, but have sharpened the chipping blade. How do you access the Cylinder Assembly to change to flails? From the diagram, it looks like I would have to remove the bearings, the cylinder shaft, drop the cylinder assembly out the bottom, then disassemble it. Is there an easier way short of taking every thing apart? Should an amateur try doing this?
Thanks

Hi William,

Page 21 and 22 of the operators manual covers turning the flails without totally disassembling the shredder. Unfortunately, it looks pretty difficult and uncomfortable to do. You remove the bottom screen and drive the roll pins out. Then you slide the rods out through a ready-made hole in the housing, dropping the flails and spacers onto the floor. After that, you replace the spacers and turned flails as you slide the rod back into place. Finally, you drive the roll pin back in. I'm thinking that it'd work best on a bench with the gas and oil removed from the engine so you can tip it whichever way it takes to get to the stuff.

I bought my Super Tomahawk 6 months ago and found the shaft and bearings were shot. Since I had to tear it completely apart anyway, I turned the flails with the drum out of the machine. Some of the spacers were seized to the shafts and driving them out on anvil was clumsy. I can't imagine the pain it would have been had it still been in the housing.

If I were you, I'd try to do it like the manual says. If it's a pain like I think it'll be, taking it apart isn't a terrible task, just a lot of work and potential cussing. If I can do it, I'm sure anyone can.

William
My machine is an early 1993 model. I have rotated the flails several times. My first suggestion is that you get an instruction and a parts manual. These show the parts and their relation to each other and give details on how the work is done. Unless there is heavy corrosion of the flails the procedure is not difficult and the reel does not have to be removed. Remove the discharge screen and the chipper chute. Drain the oil and be sure the gas tank is empty. The machine can now be laid upon its back with the discharge tunnel up. There will be now easy access to the flails and cylinder pins. On each set you will find an outer sleeve which has a hole through it. This sleeve is free to rotate and under it is a spacer which has a hole drilled through it which is filled by a roll pin. When this pin is removed the flail system can be removed. Before doing this be sure to make a sketch of the layout so that you can reassemble it properly. You will need : 4 roll pins 3/16" X 3/4",1 pin punch 5/32", 1 pin punch 7/32" and a small tube of Locktite 242 ( the blue stuff). The pin punches are used to drive out the old roll pins and install the new ones. Note DISCARD THE OLD PINS always use new pins. With the roll pin removed you can now drive out the cylinder pin through the chipper chute hole. To do this I use a brass rod which has a slightly smaller radius than the cylinder pin. Do one flail system at a time. This should get you started. Feel free to ask questions.

After reading Bill's post on how to rotate the flails I'm inspired to give it a try. Thanks very much for you clear instructions on how to get this done. I'll pick up the roll pins and punches first before starting. I was going to order some new Flails on EBay for $70 but now see that my Flails have at least two more lives in them. I'll post back my progress in a few weeks. Thanks again.

Steve

I have a craftsman chipper shredder. Model # 247.77638. With a 1450 series engine. Briggs and Stratton
How do you get the flywheel off the spindle. The engine needs to be replaced. I have removed the center bolt but cannot get the flywheel to budge

Take shredder blade off use puller you need bolts longer for puller. Small engine shop be good place find puller, rental tool another, Advance auto loan one you give value puller when take back get money back. Advance may call puller steering wheel puller.

How do you remove the flywheel from a craftsman chipper shredder?
I cannot get the flywheel to budge off the spindle

Thank you for the reply gator
I have added a pic of where I am at. Will get a puller in the week.Any other advice now that you have seen the picture?

Thanks for the reply gator. I will get a puller .Now that I have added a picture do you have any other advise?

I think got now, if you need engine Harbor Freight has engine horizontal engine that cheap they had engine build just for your type need. If can print off coupon on web save 20% on purchase they called Predator 6 1/2hp engine its overhead valve engine vary strong engine and cheap I use engine on Troy Bilt horse tiller, I keep new spare engine in attic shop just case have need for one bought first one in November 2008 they crank easy run so strong I would not try match horse power with any engine under 10 hp Predator because shaft standard 3/4 " . The overhead valve engine have power to replace 3hp to 8 hp after 8 hp shaft different size larger. The engine going come with metric thread in end shaft you need thread rod washer nut pull on plate for new engine also need new metric bolt replace one taken out old engine. After get wheel off bolts in cover need to be metric.on new engine.

Here is a link that might be useful: Predator 6 1/2 hp

Billj's instructions are spot on for turning/flipping the flails, although I didn't need the 7/32 punch. My ball peen hammer did the job of driving the new roll pins in. I also used a can of PB Blaster over a couple of days to loosen things up before flipping.

I bought my Troybilt Super Tomahawk recently off craigslist. It's a model 47251 with a delivery date written in the manual of May 1991. Nice machine and works great if you maintain the flails and chipper blade.

Troy-bilt chipper model 47266 here. Any pointers to where to find a replacement fuel filter? The one on the unit is metal cased and since it’s close to the engine cooling fins, I would tend to think I should replace it with another metal cased one, but most fuel filters are plastic.