Riley17 asks:

"So my question is do I add some water to the bucket while I'm making it or do I dilute it after, or doesn't it matter?"

Yes, it does matter. Once you have all the ingredients in the 5-gallon bucket fill the bucket almost to the top as one would if making compost tea. In reality, we are making compost tea; only we are adding the ingredients from the Bug Juice. Brew as stated, either stirring with a stick or one can use a compost tea brewer. The only difference in method is how long the tea is allowed to brew; with a compost tea brewer one will only brew for 18-24 hours before using the tea. When brewing is complete, dilute as you have written above (more or less, it is your call)

Bug Juice, in my years of experience, is a very powerful compost brew. I have consistently had good results when using it on just about any plant I apply it too. The link below leads to a homemade compost tea brewer in case you wish to build one (if you donÂt have one already). Again, stirring with a stick or using a brewer gives the same results IMO. I trust this helps in some wayÂ

Blutranes

Here is a link that might be useful: Dueley's Own Little Texas Tea Maker

I too have a question: I brewed up a bucket of Bug Juice about a week ago. How do I know if it is done? It smells fine, doesn't look much different than when I first made it.

"I trust this helps in some way"

It helps a lot : ) Thanks!

"How do I know if it is done? It smells fine, doesn't look much different than when I first made it."

That is how you know, "it smells fine", good enough to drink (but don't). Use it as soon as possible; it is good to go...

Blutranes

I'm trying to resurrect a batch of bug juice that went anaerobic (the smell was gastly) with a dose of molasses and some extended bubbling. Any experience with that?

Citysoil said:

" I'm trying to resurrect a batch of bug juice that went anaerobic (the smell was ghastly) with a dose of molasses and some extended bubbling. Any experience with that?"

I havenÂt, but if I did I would probably get rid of it to be on the safe side. The ingredients are very cheap, why take the chance of using something that may have gone bad? IMO, better to start over and this time do not do whatever happened to cause it to go anaerobic this time.

When making Bug Juice always use good quality compost is my understanding. Also I understand not to use compost that contains manure unless it is well aged and completely composted (if not, use compost that does not contain manure). Good quality compost has the smell of rich fresh soil (like a forest floor after a good rain as they say). Any aerated brew should have a sweet smell, it should smell good; if not there is something wrong and the tea should not be used, ever.

There are teas that will/do smell bad; alfalfa tea is notorious for its odor. And too, some compost teas (anaerobic) and/or manure teas do have an awful odor; this is normal for those teas. However, there are different directions on creation and usage of said teas. I have not used such a tea, so therefore I am not qualified to speak on how to make them or how to use them; others may be of help in this matter. As it relates to Bug Juice, it should always smell goodÂ

Blutranes

Blutranes,

Is "rotten fruit" necessary in the BJ recipe? If using fresh because that's all that's available, should I increase any portion of other ingredients?

Thanks,
Penny

Penny asked:

"Is "rotten fruit" necessary in the BJ recipe?"

I have used fresh fruit Penny, but it is not as potent as rotten fruit. When short on rotten fruit I grab some bananas and let them sit for a few days until they start turning brown then use them. I also have always stuck to the original formula for making "Juice"; I have adjusted the amount to make 55-gallons at one time though. The results have always been the same.

If I did want to modify the formula regarding fruit I would find another sugar source, but I would also look for something else to replace the fiber found in fruit. Of course, adding other ingredients has not been a problem (kelp, alfalfa, molasses, Sea-90, rock dust); but I always started with original juice. I trust this helpsÂ

Blutranes

Blutranes, do we stir BIM after we add the molasses and water? I added all the stuff to my potato BIM on wednesday and gave it a shake today because it smelled terrible, but then I remembered its supposed to smell awful, right?
: )
Holly

Blutranes wrote:
"If I did want to modify the formula regarding fruit I would find another sugar source..."

How about fruit preserves gone bad? I've got a jar right now. might use it for something useful rather than throw it into garbage.

Holly asked:

"Blutranes, do we stir BIM after we add the molasses and water?"

You made the same mistake I did when I first made BIM Holly. We are suppose to add the molasses before me let it ferment, not after when making BIM; if not the only thing the original material will do is "rot" instead of ferment, that is why your potatoes smell so bad. Might as well toss them into the compost pile and make a new batch, just add the molasses to the potatoes at the beginning. LB is different; with LB we let it sit for 2-7 days then add molasses and milk, then let that sit for another 2-7 days before using or storing. An easy mistake to make, and a good learning lesson for the nose is it not?

Milque said:

"How about fruit preserves gone bad?"

I had the same thought yesterday Milque; I have some Fig preserves out back that I wanted to use for something, Bug Juice is just the thing to use them on. I too was thinking about using preserves to make BIM; what say everyone about that as well? Humble minds think alike they tell meÂ

Blutranes

awww darn! Ok thanks, better to know now than after I put it on my plants. So when I start over, I put my potatoes in a bucket, add the molasses and the water at the beginning. Then what? Do I stir it everyday or should I let it sit?
Couldn't I save this batch if I add some milk? I only added the molasses on Wednesday, maybe its not too late?
Thanks!

Holly said:

" I put my potatoes in a bucket, add the molasses and the water at the beginning. Then what? Do I stir it everyday or should I let it sit?"

When you add the two together stir them really well, cover the brew to keep out vermin and let it sit (no more stirring required). After the mold grows on top (2-7 days depending on temperature) strain the brew and add 20 parts more water. I too add a little more molasses to keep the microbes happy and well fed. Use this as your stock blend. When ready to use add two tablespoons to a gallon of water, stir and use on plants. The end results should always have a sweet/alcoholic odor, never a rotten smell.

" Couldn't I save this batch if I add some milk? I only added the molasses on Wednesday, maybe its not too late?"

Nope, you will only end up with some stinky potatoes with milk mixed in the brew. On the compost pile is where it should go; it is well past "too late", and at least you didnÂt waste any of the milk. When I learn something new there is never any waste (other than my time), yet I always end up the better for it. Sorry it turned out this way for you, however, better now than later in the season when stuff is really growingÂ

Blutranes

I figured it would be too late, but it was worth a try. : )
I will start a new batch on Tuesday.
Thanks for the help,
Holly

This is the orginal recipe from Dr Steve.

This is what you need in order to make Bug JuiceÂ.

One 5 gallon bucket.
Corn starch
Bread yeast
MaxGro our fishmeal product, or another source of protein. Blood meal will work.
Ripe fruit, such as plums, apples, apricots, peaches, watermelons, peeled bananas or whatever. No citrus.

The Bug Juice Formula

Fruit: The fruits mentioned above contain sucrose, proteins, various vitamins and other nutrients, easily digestible cellulose and pectin. They are the perfect food for soil microorganisms. Pit the fruit, and smash it so it can be more rapidly digested by microorganisms. It should be mush. Add 1 pound or so to the bucket. Decaying fruit that has fallen off a tree is the best. Just save it for making Bug JuiceÂ.

Cornstarch: Starch is present in all organic matter as a form of storage energy. Bugs need to degrade it in the soil in order to obtain a carbon source for their metabolism. Add 5 tablespoons to the bucket.

MaxGro or blood meal: MaxGro is a heat sterilized fishmeal that has a high nutrient and growth promoting value for plants and microorganisms. It is the protein source for the bugs and the source of biochemical building blocks for the auxin and cytokinin plant growth hormones. Blood meal is a poor substitute, but it is more readily available. Add 5 tablespoons to the bucket.

Yeast: Yeast is a cheap source of B vitamins. It is also a source of cytokinins and protein. Mix two teaspoons of yeast, two teaspoons of sugar and one teaspoon of bread flour to 2 cups of warm water. When the yeast stops foaming, it has consumed most of the sugar. Add 2 tablespoons of corn starch, 1 tablespoon of bread flour and allow the mixture to sit for 2 hours. You are adapting the yeast to the starch. This is important. In order to break down starch, the yeast must be induced to secrete the enzyme alpha amylase. You want to promote this reaction. Most sugars in the soil are in the form of starchÂnot sucrose.

You have now mixed the ingredients, a handful of good compost and added water. Mix periodically to aerate the mix and leave the bucket in the sun. After one week, start applying the Bug Juice to the compost or table scraps you have collected, or directly to poor soil. Bug Juice can be directly applied to plants, trees, grass, whatever. It is disgusting to look at, but it is a powerful organic "nutrient soup" for the soil. And you made it. You are now officially a backyard scientist.

I am wondering if somebody actually used fruit preserves that went bad to make BJ?
I want to try to do BJ first time and want to use what i have on hand: fruit preserves and can of tuna in water plus the rest following recipe.
Any thoughts?