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chele519

Soil test results

15 years ago

I recently did a soil test and just got the results back last night. This is the first time I've done this although I've been using this garden for 6 or 7 years. I'm confused with the results because in the faq there is mention of nitrogen but that is not on my results list and I'm not sure what to use for fertilizer. I'm hoping someone can help with this.

pH - Soil 6.30 Optimum Range

Calcium, Mehlich 3 (Ca) 1039 (ppm) O 800 - 1200

Magnesium, Mehlich 3 (Mg) 186 (ppm) H 60 - 120

Potassium, Mehlich 3 (K) 71 (ppm) L 170 - 280

Phosphorus, Mehlich 3 (P) 73 (ppm) H 30 - 50

Lead, Mehlich 3 (Pb) 5 (ppm) L

Vegetable Garden (pH range 6.0 - 6.5)

Supplements: No Lime or Sulfur required at this time.

Fertilizer Application: We recommend that you uniformly broadcast 18 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft. of 10-0-10 plus 5 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft. of 0-0-22. A second application of fertilizer ( 12 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft. of 10-0-10) 3-4 weeks after planting or transplanting should be side dressed or applied by banding six inches from the growing plants and if possible, lightly incorporated into the soil and thoroughly incorporate it into soil before planting.

This will result in a total application of 30 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft. of 10-0-10.

Based on this Magnesium and phosphorus are high, potassium is low. In the faq it says to add potash for the potassium and to use a fertilizer low in phosphorus.

Do I need to go to a nursery to get fertilizers with these numbers? I haven't seen anything except small bags/containers of vegetable fertilizer at HD/Lowes. In the past I've always just used bags of Miracle Gro garden soil but I figured why spend the money if I don't need it. Does this mean I don't need topsoil either?

Comments (8)

  • 15 years ago

    I have a follow up question to my post above. I usually put down the black plastic to control weeds so the 2nd application 3-4 weeks after planting would be difficult to do. Can I do the first application when the garden is tilled? Then for the 2nd recommendation, I'm not sure what side dressed is, use a liquid fertilizer that I can apply while watering? Thanks for any help.

  • 15 years ago

    Soil test labs seldom test for Nitrogen because N availability is dependant on soil temperature, the activity of your Soil Food Web. What is missing is organic matter and there is a simple test yuou can do to determine that.
    1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

    2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

    3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

    4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

    5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy

    Side dressing a fertilizer means simpy that you carefully apply a band along side the plants that are growing, being very careful to not get synthetic fertilizers in contact with the plants or their roots. You can spread the first application before tilling and work that in while tilling, if you do that. The second application is applied along side the plants and then worked in usually with a cultivator.

  • 15 years ago

    I just did the standard test, I thought the organic one was just if you were going to use only organic fertilizer so I guess that was my mistake.

    Thanks for the info, I will do those tests this weekend. I can definitely say that it does not smell bad, don't remember how many worms but I know I picked out some.

  • 15 years ago

    It takes a bit more knowledge about soils and how they work to interpret the standard soil test so it is not necessary to specify organic results, unless you want to. I don't and do not pay much attention to the fertilizing recommendations and my soil has improved over the years just with the addition of compost and other organic matter, no rock dusts, no expanded shale, no magic elixars designed to part me from my money, just organic matter.

  • 15 years ago

    So a stupid question. What exactly is organic matter? I've used bags of humus before. Is that any good? I don't really have access to manure so need something I can buy by the bag.

  • 15 years ago

    Chele, the only stupid question is the one not asked. Organic matter is vegetative waste. Humus is the residual vegetative waste, organic matter, in soil. What is sold in bags as humus is digested vegetative waste, or compost.

  • 15 years ago

    Wow, your soil test looks amazing. pH is ideal, and lots of Phosphorus. I'm going to guess that you are in the South of the U.S. A warmer climate rather than a colder climate.

    If that's true, you have some other issues to deal with. The organic matter in your soil won't last long. If that were my soil, I'd dry an experiment with hardwood sawdust and wood chips to try to incorporate some long lasting organic material. Or ramial mulch tilled into the very top surface of the soil.

    But heavy layers of organic mulch is what you might want.

  • 15 years ago

    idaho gardener, nope. :) Absolute opposite. I'm in NH. We have a pretty short planting season, I think. Other than peas, most of my stuff goes out Memorial day weekend and it's done in Sept/Oct.

    I'm trying to save money this year so that's why I did the soil test instead of just using bags of garden soil which is expensive and I might not actually need.