Can you confirm that there is 12V getting to the PTO clutch pigtail at the last plug in connector serving the PTO clutch?
If you are getting 12V TO the clutch connector, check that the other (ground wire) wire in the connector is providing a ground, to do this you will connect your test light or volt meter the Battery + post and touch the other end to the ground wire in the plug. You will be testing the plug conductors on the CHASSIS side of this connection and you need to separate the connector halves to do the tests.

If you do not get 12V at the "hot side" of the connector, you will need to back track to the Clutch/Brake interlock switch. There might also be a "Mow in Reverse" interlock switch that detects when the transmission is in reverse gear.

Could be any of the safety interlock switches... seat, parking brake, mow in reverse... and they all merit checking. Get out your wiring diagram and check them one by one with a meter or test light.

Don't overlook a possible broken wire in the connector at the clutch... either the tractor side connector or the clutch side connector.

Check for a secondary ground wire that you may have missed connecting last December when you put in a new battery.

Here is what I've done so far...

This tractor has an Ogura MA-GT-EXM3X Electric PTO.

1. Air gap was >0.026" was reduced to 0.015" at all 3 points.

2. 3.4 Ohms was measured on the connector going into electric PTO, across the coil. Good continuity!

3. 0.05 Ohms measured down the hot wire from where PTO switch connects to connector at the PTO clutch.

4. 1.0 Ohms measured b/t ground wire and chassis ground.

4. I disconnected the electric PTO connector. Put a jumper wire on the hot side, b/t the PTO and the hot wire, and my multimeter leads on the ground side. I turned the key on and pulled the PTO switch....

I measured 0.0 A of current! I expected to see about 4.0 Amps. Right now, I think it is the switch. But I'm curious....

Could it still be the electric PTO itself given the above info? Is there a wire I am missing?

Mike (Ron's son)

Well, you've done everything except the simplest test...

Take a DVM, set it to DC VOLTS, and put the + lead into one of the wires at the electric clutch connector and the - lead to a GOOD ground. Turn on the key, pull the PTO switch, and see if you have 12 volts or so. If not, then move the DVM + lead to the other wire in the connector. If you don't have 12 volts or so at the other wire the problem is in the B+ supply... battery, ignition switch, fuse, wire, connector, PTO switch, and/or the numerous safety switches.

Until you know that you have power to the clutch you don't know anything.

Yeah, what justalurker said !
I read the steamfan post about 4 times looking for confirmation of voltage presence before scrolling on to the jal post. I concur.

About an hour ago I grabbed a wire diagram off the Simplicity website.

The PTO switch was already removed, and diagram showed PTO clutch connected by black/white and red/yellow wires.

I turned the key on and placed a jumper wire across these two points.

Sure enough, the PTO clutch kicked on and off with the jumper wire connection.

I'm 99% sure the switch is bad and will be getting a new one tomorrow.

Thanks for all the comments.

They who test circuits with jumper wires will smell the smell that costs a lot of money... that's why there are VMs and DVMs and test lights.

Keep in mind that a battery in a L&G tractor has more than enough amps to arc weld with.

OK............***"The PTO switch was already removed"***
Was that removed before or after we began making suggestions/recommendations? :^)

PTO switch was removed after comments, such as, a good ground being established via earlier suggestion.

Idea to use jumper wire came from SCAG diagnostic procedure found online for electric clutches.

I'll post if the new switch does/does not work.

Well, jumper wires are sometimes a necessary part of a comprehensive diagnosis process. But as they say about lots of things, "the decision to do so should not be taken lightly".
It is apparent that one of you has some understanding of electrical things/circuits (since 2 persons participated in this discussion from the steamfan759 keyboard) and can find your way to knowledge on the internet.
Since you found the procedure suggesting a jumper wire at a bona fide site, you were OK in doing so............in this case.
Let me say this about the "casual use" of jumper wires in automotive venues.
Jumper wires are best used in conjunction with an ohmmeter, volt meter/test light, or continuity tester to check the circuit if the leads of said meters are not long enough in themselves to reach both checking locations of the vehicle wiring. I suppose you could call those "extension wires", but most would classify them as jumpers.
This way, the only current path available is routed through the meter or test light, and that will not result in a meltdown scenario (except in the case of "sampling" a hot wire with your meter set to Ohms).
IF, one must use a jumper wire to test a circuit "hot" wherein the jumper wire will BYPASSING switches or other circuit interruption devices, the jumper wire should feature an inline type of automotive fuse hold equipped with a fuse of the same Amp rating as the vehicle OEM uses to protect that circuit.
In this manner, if you test a circuit where chafing of the wire to ground may have toasted a switch or a wire terminal, the fuse will blow instead of smoking any wiring.

And yes, please do post your results when you get the new PTO switch.

mownie,

Extending the length of test leads is common practice except in cases of high amperage testing and using a jumper in a high amperage circuit to test a component should ONLY be done by people who thoroughly understand electrics.

Jumping a high amperage switch, like a PTO switch, is begging for trouble and it is incredibly stupid when a simple test light will test the same circuit in complete safety.

With respect to the OP, the fact that he "found the procedure suggesting a jumper wire at a bona fide site, you were OK in doing so..." is laughable. That tech writer should be fired and so should the proofreader. I'll wager that if you put that manual section recommending a jumper wire test in front of qualified Skag techs they'd fall down laughing after reading it. Had the OP's wiring harness gone up in smoke because the clutch was shorted to ground would Skag have paid to replace it?

If we're gonna help DIYers let's give them the best info we can...

A new switch solved the problem. Once installed, PTO light came on + could hear the electric clutch snap-in.

Engine was started to full throttle, PTO engaged and observed pulley spinning underneath the frame.

Success, thanks for all comments gentlemen.