any possibility new batt is hooked up backwards or has term reversed from orig batt ?

Not going to get spark till the engine flywheel is spinning. I would just replace the solenoid they are cheap can get them at any Big box store or order online. then you would be pass that possible problem

***"Not going to get spark"***
I may be wrong but my take on the above statement is that the OP was referring to the arcing caused when you "jump" electrical terminals in an impromptu fashion, not anything to do with "ignition spark".
So let's try to decipher something on the info provided so far.
***"I unhooked the starter cable from the starter and tested the solenoid contact specifically on the solenoid where the starter wire connects from the starter. I tested with the multimeter and get nothing ? no 12V."***
In the scenario above.........if all you are doing is probing the starter cable with the multimeter, and doing no other action such as turning the key to start, or jumpering to the small "control terminal" of the solenoid...........your described observations are correct and normal (but that does not mean everything is OK with the solenoid, it just means you are not actually testing anything yet).
Before you go rushing off to buy a solenoid, or an ignition switch, let's test.
On the solenoid there are 2 big posts with cables (one from battery, one to starter) and at least 1 small post with a small wire (some have a second small post as a ground, or the OEM may use that grounding post in a circuit leading to a grounding safety switch somewhere).
Having described the layout a bit, here's what you need to do (even if you have already done parts of this, repeat please).
Multimeter (MM), test for 12V at the solenoid big cable from battery. 12V = OK. Zero V = defect in circuit.
Next, because you have stated that turning the key to START will blow the fuse, we can't really turn the key to start for testing the engagement of the solenoid, so let's do a different test of the solenoid so we can determine if the solenoid is good or bad in itself.
You can have the big starter cable connected or not for this test, just make sure if it is loose from the starter it does not touch anything that is grounded.
Disconnect the small wire from the solenoid post (if there are 2 small wires, determine which is grounded and disconnect the opposite wire).
Using a short piece of 14 gauge (or about that) wire, touch one end of the 14 gauge wire to the small post of the solenoid and the other end of the wire to the battery cable post on the solenoid.
If the solenoid is good, you will hear it click as it activates. When it activates you should detect 12V on the starter cable post (or notice that the starter cranks the engine).
If this test confirms the solenoid to be good, connect everything back that you took loose and get away from that solenoid, it is not your problem.
Here's a rough description of the circuit which normally would provide current to the small wire that activates the solenoid.
When key is turned to START, battery voltage flows out through the "S" terminal of the key switch and runs to a PTO interlock switch that prevents the starter engaging if PTO is "ON". This might be part of the PTO switch on dash is electric PTO clutch is featured, or it might be a separate switch on the deck engagement linkage if manual PTO is featured.
If this switch is open, the solenoid control post will be deprived of 12V and not engage. A short to ground in this area will blow fuse in START mode.
Next, test/check the clutch/brake switch. Same situation with this switch except that many clutch/brake switches are 2 switches (2 separate circuits) in one body. One of the switches here interrupts the solenoid control circuit (the other is magneto inhibition) and a short to ground in this area will blow the fuse. You can unplug the wire connectors from these switches to see if it makes a difference in fuse blowing. But........just because you unplug the switch and fuse survives does not mean a defective switch, it just means you have narrowed the search area where the short is hiding.

It is also possible that a key switch itself can develop a short to ground inside the switch body. If your key switch has individual wiring connections on the back, you can unplug the wire from the "S" terminal and turn the key to START. If the fuse blows with the S wire unplugged......defective key switch.
It would be nice to see a wiring diagram on this tractor if anybody can come up with a link.

Also check the wiring coming from the switch could be causing the short if the insulation has rubbed off.

I have looked over the wires and did not see any worn insulation or bare wire. I will review again as there are a lot of wires and most in difficult to see locations.

Also one other piece of info I need to add/clarify. I correctly hooked my jumper cables to tractor btty and when I attached the + to the starter it cranked. So based on that I concluded the starter is good.

Mownie, you suggest "Next, because you have stated that turning the key to START will blow the fuse, we can't really turn the key to start for testing the engagement of the solenoid, so let's do a different test of the solenoid so we can determine if the solenoid is good or bad in itself."
And I agree with you it would keep blowing fuses. That is why I unhooked the starter cable (connecting from the solenoid to the starter). I did this because of the fuses blowing and thinking it was something up front (like headlights) causing the short and the fuse to blow.

So with the starter cable off the starter I used a multimeter to test the solenoid.

I used the multimeter to test the solenoid - specifically the contact on the solenoid where the battery wire connects from battery to solenoid and get 12V.
I put the multimeter on specifically on the solenoid where the starter wire connects from the starter. I turned to run and then start and get nothing - no 12V. I would expect the solenoid to close the circuit and I would get juice on the starter side of the solenoid.
So I think this is a similar enough test to your test to prove either the solenoid or perhaps the ignition switch is bad? IF you disagree please let me know. It could be a safety switch keeping the solenoid from closing which I hope it is not because there are a lot of them.

Anyway I took the solenoid ? off which was a major pain and bought a new one. I am going to try and figure out a way to bench test the old and new solenoid just to eliminate that possibility. Make sense?

I have the manual although I don?t think a wiring diagram is in it. Here is a link to Sabre site with Sabre wiring harness diagram. This may not suffice ? I am not smart enough to know. I have 15.538HS (hydrostatic) John Deere Sabre.

http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt

Thanks very much for the advice.

***"bench test the old and new solenoid just to eliminate that possibility. Make sense?"***
It makes more sense to actually test components BEFORE buying new ones! But you you might (might) be able to return the new solenoid if YOU HAVE NOT INSTALLED IT to the tractor.
Below is an image describing how a person can "bench test" a solenoid. The solenoid can be tested while it is still mounted to the tractor, which is actually the preferred way to do it since it is already connected to a battery and if it tests "good"........you just leave it be (did I not already state something like that in my first post?).
In this test a cable is connected from Battery POS to the BATTERY terminal of the solenoid. A cable from the Battery NEG is connected to the metal mounting flange of the solenoid. Connect a volt meter + or test light to the STARTER terminal of solenoid and the other meter lead (or light probe) to the mounting flange of solenoid.
Using a screwdriver or a jumper wire, make contact from the solenoid BATTERY terminal over to the small "solenoid control terminal". If the solenoid is "good", the meter will register "battery voltage" or the test light will light up.
You might notice that this test is essentially a repeat of what I put in my first post.
Trying to save you here if you will pay attention to the steps.
Do this test and post back the results.
If you end up finding the old solenoid fails this test, don't try to second guess and put the new one on.
If you put obvious scratches or marks on the new one.....you might have trouble convincing the partsman you did not install it.

{{gwi:322130}}

***"If you end up finding the old solenoid fails this test, don't try to second guess and put the new one on."***
My goof! That line should have been stated as:
"If you end up finding the old solenoid PASSES this test, don't try to second guess and put the new one on."
I do wish this forum would permit the author of a post to edit even after submitting a post.
My apologies to anybody who caught my error.

Sorry for the delay - I have been out of town. For the record I did test the old solenoid will it was still mounted and it seemd to FAIL the test. From my first post "I used the multimeter to test the solenoid - specifically the contact on the solenoid where the battery wire connects - get 12V.
Then I un hooked the starter cable from the starter and tested the solenoid contact specifically on the solenoid where the starter wire connects from the starter. I tested with the multimeter and get nothing no 12V." I turned the key to run and start during this test which should have send the voltage thru the solenoid.

However by the time I saw your most recent post Mownie I had already taken the old one off. I did the bench test as you described except my old or new solenoid (sitting in its box) do not have the small solenoid control. So I did the test except for the screwdriver connecting to small solenoid control. The OLD solenoid passed the test. I must say I am confused about your message. Are you suggesting I go with the new solenoid regardless of whether the OLD passed the bench test? Since my connected to the tractor solenoid test failed I thought it was the solenoid. Now I am not so sure. Is there a way to test the ignition switch while it is on the tractor

On a side note sometime the multimeter test shows 12V and sometimes it does not on the bench test and simply testing the btty. Maybe I am going crazy or maybe the multi is inconsistent. I am going to guess if 12V go throw at least a few times then the OLd solenoid passes the bench test

additonal info regarding my last post - when I bench test the old or new solenoid I get the following

m = multimeter

m+ to btty + and m- to btty - =12v
m+ to btty + and m- to metal =12v
m+ to sole + and m- to metal =12v (sole = solenoid ctrl with cable to btty
m+ to starter and m- to btty - =0 v (starter = solenoid ctrl not hooked to + btty cable and would hook to starter cable if on tractor)
m+ to starter and m- to metal =0 v

which seems to indicate they both fail - however I cannot do the test as described as I hvae no small solenoid ctrl

***"my old or new solenoid (sitting in its box) do not have the small solenoid control."***
Huh? I would like to see a picture of your solenoids.
Do your solenoids look anything like the generic example I used for the above illustration?
Do your solenoids mount to the frame/chassis? or do they mount directly to the starter?

As for "maybe the volt meter is inconsistent", drop the volt meter ((off a cliff maybe) and switch to a 12 volt test light. A basic 12 volt test light is sufficient for the tests you need to do here.
But I'm really puzzled by your stating your solenoids lack the small control post??????? Exactly how many posts or terminals (threaded or push-on) are present on your solenoids?

I'll chime in a bit, mainly because there seems to be some confusion. I am no tractor expert, but I am an electrician, so the electrical end of this stuff is right up my alley.

First let me start by saying that Mownie is giving you some sound advice here, and knows what he's talking about. Ok, on to my explanation. First off, a starting solonoid is actually better described as a relay, where a 12v coil is first energized, which magnetizes, and pulls up in the "rod" or assembly that is attached to a set of contacts, which closes the circuit to the starter. The starter solonoid can fail in several ways:

1. The coil can stop functioning, resulting in the starting circuit NOT closing, thus you get nothing.

2. The coil insulation can fail, resulting in a short circuit, therefore blowing the fuse. This sounds probable based on your information.

3. The contacts for the starting circuit can wear over time, becoming intermittent, but this would be noticable by choppy starts, and intermittent starting failures.

With that said, the way I would go about troubleshooting this is disconnect only the +12v cable from the load side of the solonoid, that goes to the starter itself. Connect your meter to ground, and to the terminal where you disconnected the +12v cable to the starter. Set the meter where you can see it, hop on the seat, and turn the key. One of 3 things will happen.

1. You get +12v when you turn the key. This would mean the solonoid is good.

2. You blow the fuse. This obviously means that you have a short circuit, either in the coil, or the starting control circuit.

3. You get nothing. This scenario will move you to the next step, because it doesn't necessarily mean the solonoid is shot.

If you get the 2nd or 3rd test result, you then need to proceed to disconnect the +12v control wire that energizes the coil. Make sure that you do not allow the wire to flop around and possibly short out. With that said, connect you meter to this wire, and the other lead should still be connected to ground. Now hop on the tractor again, and turn the key to start. 1 of 3 things will result.

1. You get +12v. If this happens, your solonoid is bad.

2. You get nothing. If this happens, you have a problem in the starter control/safety circuit, which is inhibiting you from starting.

3. You blow the fuse again. If this happens, you have a shorted wire in the starter control/safety circuit.

Now, mind you a lot of this was said, and this pertains to testing the starting solonoid only. You mentioned not blowing the fuse when "the starter wire is not connected to the starter". If you are referring to the control wire, then the above steps will help. However, if you are referring to the large cable that goes from the load side of the starter solonoid, to the starter itself, then you have an issue with your starter.

Hope this helps,

Joe

Latest update
I put in a new starter solenoid. Why ? because I had already purchased it $20 and I need to get this tractor fixed.
I did not completely attach it to tractor body.
I hooked up the cables and battery and voila the tractor engine cranked/turned over.
I did not try to completely start it as I had the tractor up on blocks to remove the right rear wheel in order to access the starter solenoid easier.
I unhooked the battery (to make access easier for one thing). I tightened the screws on the solenoid - I had hand tightened them before. In the process I accidently broke off a plastic piece of the solenoid. There are no exposed wires or anything ? it did not look inherently functional. However I attached the solenoid to the tractor, double checked to make sure and now get nothing ? the engine will not crank.

I am convinced the old starter was causing the fuse to blow as with the new starter solenoid when I try to start the fuse is not blowing.

I am convinced the starter works as I can jump the tractor with jumper cables attaching directly to the starter.

So options are that I ruined the starter by breaking off the piece of plastic (circled in the photo). I would think the starter solenoid is tougher than that given it is not like I impacted an integral part. Anyone have thoughts on the "toughness" of a solenoid.
The most logical (to me) other possibility is a loose safety switch somewhere and I just got lucky in that it turned over once that first time.

There are many safety switches so other than trying those I am at a loss on what to try next. Any ideas?

Joe ? regarding your suggestion. Does the below test like your suggestion. I am not trying to be lazy I just have 4 kids, busy with work and don?t want to waste time re doing tests different ways.
I rechecked the battery, I verified the 12V flowing to the starter solenoid. I put the multimeter negative on the btty negative and the Multimeter positive on the post on the starter side of the btty. I had my son sit on it and turn the key and get no 12V. I did the same thing with the multimeter on ground and on the starter side of the Solenoid.
For the record he mows sometimes so he is old/heavy enough for the seat safety switch.

Having trouble uploading a file - will try again later.

Jump out both purple wires on safety switch for clutch/brake pedal and same on the left side for pto/blade lever, I thought my ignition switch was bad but it's not,