Because you "hot wired" it to work.

You need to understand how it works before you modify things.

Also using the term "hot wire" is incorrect, since (I hope) you aren't providing power to it.

Im sorry since I took the switch under the seat apart and (I need to get a new one now) I just used jumpers to try and make the switch work . Just for the time being. I was just trying to figure out what caused the 30 fuse to blow. And what to do next.

Some general stuff to look for may help may not?

IMO the cause of the 30 amp fuse blowning may due to too many amps being pulled throught the curcuit. I would first look for chafed wires (wires that been rubbing againg shape object and inner core wires exposed causing spark or dead short in the elect. system) touching metal parts. I would start down above and around the deck especially the elect. clutch wires. Then move on following the harness. This is very intence task and you must be thorough and may even have to take the engine cowl and rear fenders off to get complete access to the wiring harness.

Your Safety switches IMO will most likely not blow 30 amp fuse it will just shut the engine down if you have faulty one unless they are chafed causing direct short in the system.

Usually the 30 amp fuse is related to direct short in the harness being grounded out by metal frame or part on tractor. Or the elect. clutch is pulling too many amp. to keep it locked up to turn the blades. I would also check see if you deck pulley are turning freely.

another guestion would will the tractor run without the PTO switch in the on position (after you replaced the fuse). if so you may have narrowed it down to the PTO switch, wiring, or PTO clutch that operates the deck blades providing you driving it over the same bumpy area that you mow when the tractor shuts down???

IF you don't have an Owners manual, download it at the link below.

Looking at the schematic, p33/60, look for any place that A1 from the key switch is shorted.

You can disconnect the various items such as fuel solenoid, Voltage Regulator etc. to isolate the problem.

A 12V test light would do the job. IF it lights up brightly when placed in series (when it shouldn't)of the offending "leg" of the circuit (with the key on) you've probably isolated the offending part.

Else, you can disconnect everything and then reattach one at a time. When the fuse blows again, it was that "leg".

Here is a link that might be useful: OM