First of all remember that fall is the best time to seed grass. Summer is the worst time and spring is the second worst. There are two reasons this is a bad time for grass seed: first is that this is the time the crabgrass likes to sprout. All you have to do to sprout crabgrass is to water it twice a day for about two weeks. Unfortunately that is exactly what you have to do to sprout grass seed. The second reason is that your new grass plants will not have enough time to grow roots strong enough to resist the summer heat. So if you do it now you can expect a crabgrass lawn by August. I guess, as you pointed out, now is a great time to feed birds, so I could add that to this being a poor time to seed.

Compost won't do you any good. Compost covers up the seed so that anything that sprouts will have to grow through the compost to start photosynthesizing. Grass usually doesn't have that much energy in the seed. A better plan is to scalp the current grass (to allow sunlight in), scatter the seed, roll the seed down with a water fillable roller, and then start watering.

If you go ahead and use the compost anyway, you only need 1 cubic yard of compost for each 1,000 square feet. This amount is almost like applying dust. It will be about 1/4 inch against the current grass blades.

Thanks. Maybe I'll wait until Fall. How early in fall should I start seeding?

Christine

If you do wait until fall, put as much OM into the lawn as you can spare between now and then. Compost, alfalfa meal, finely shredded leaves. Prep, timing, and seed quality will dramatically change your seeding success.

I've put down a little compost, seeded on top, and rolled it with good success. The grass has a little nutrient start and a softer bed for root penetration (well, that's my hypothesis).

May I suggest doing some homework on the particular type of grass you are sowing? My experience was different from that of dchall regarding timing. We spoke with the grower of the seed we chose and were told of specific temperature requirements for sprouting, which as the grower pointed out meant we needed to sow during the month of June in our state, not earlier, not later. Also, we were told it needed to be done then in order to be strong enough to survive to winter cold. Again, just a suggestion to research your specific grass in your specific state. We also received great guidance from the county extension service. Good luck.

All "cool season" grasses will establish better if seeded in the fall since they will not have to contend with the normally hot, dry summer weather just as they start to grow well and really want to go dormant for the summer. The "warm season" grasses may do better with spring seeding, but these are better established by sodding instead.
Start your lawn care this spring with a good soil test from your local office of the University of Maryland USDA Cooperative Extension Service and spend some time with this from Ohio State University about Natural lawn care. http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/4000/4031.html

Here is a link that might be useful: University of Maryland CES

Eh. Seed is cheap. I overseed in spring, and sometimes again in fall. My lawn sustains a lot of dog damage in winter, so I need to seed parts of it in springtime. On the dog spots I do rake thoroughly with a garden rake, then put on some compost, sprinkle seed, and lightly rake it in. On the rest of the lawn I just fling seed right before a projected rainy spell. If I feel like it I spread a light layer of compost but I don't know that it helps keep birds off. For keeping birds away I might use some kind of light fabric if I were that motivated.

seedmama - thanks for reminding me of what should have been obvious - do some investigating about my particular grass, LOL. What I found out is that I actually should be sowing it in Spring.

Christine

regina- I've done similar. Had a good sized bag left one time- I probably seeded the thin parts once a month (for the 5 months we can grow grass here). Low % success at any one time (especially if you don't water etc- like me), but persistence pays.

Good advice from reginac and pablo above. Seed is inexpensive. I sprinkle about 1/4 inch of compost onto rough parts of the lawn in Spring and sow seed on to it. Once it starts to sprout I add another 1/4 inch or so. I'll do this as needed until late Fall.

Every ecology is different. We live in a natural grassland and grass is a non-issue for starting. One also needs to take into account regional issues such as temperatures, rain and so on.

Dcahll has great advice if you live in Texas.

Being in Maryland you have more leeway on a spring seeding.
Though fall is the best time to seed, you can think of spring as the second best time to seed, rather than the second worst time to seed.

My lawn takes a tough hit during the winter from dog traffic, so I overseed in both spring and fall. I have to, else I would have bare spots that fill in with weeds all summer long. I seed very early, its almost a dormant seeding, so the seeds are down and ready to germinate when the weather is right.

If you are going to topdress with compost, you should do that just before its overseeded.

What type of compost would be good for top-dressing like this before sowing seed?

Christine

Christine,
I am not an expert on any of this, but I can share what I have learned and tell you what I plan to do.
1. My county extension agent was able to give me very good step-by-step advice, except for one thing, which I will explain in #2. The first thing I think any agent will advise is a soil test. Worth the $10-15.

2. The seed grower of my particular seed (Riviera bermuda) suggested 2 pounds per 1,000 sf. The agent said it would be fine to use 1.5 pounds because bermuda will spread and fill in. Although I secured it for less, my seed retails for $25 per pound so I was looking for shortcuts. If I had it to do over, it is one shortcut I wouldn't take. Why? Because Mother Nature does not like bare earth. If the earth is not covered by a desired grass seed, it may very likely be covered by a crabgrass seed, and mine was.

3. We had the misfortune to be hit by a pouring rainstorm right after seed was put down. Consequently, our downslope land is lush and green (probably 3# per 1,000sf) while our upslope land has many bare spots. Next time I am going to try a light layer of something, perhaps straw or hay (whichever one doesn't have seeds)to help minimize washout.

4. I plan to put down 1/4" compost on bare spots before seeding to help with moisture retention. Check to see if your grass seed requires light to germinate before you cover it with compost. I would be very careful about putting compost on top of seed. Those little seeds have very little available food to push through to light before they give out. Perhaps better is to roll the seed as suggested above to ensure soil to seed contact for moisture. Keep the seed consistently moist ALWAYS.

4. I will be using the compost I have available, which is from the city's "fall crop" It is made from leaves and chipped wood. It is a "finished" product, but will still need to be sifted. The compost is free direct to me, or I can buy the same stuff from a processor in town who will sift it for me for a mere up charge of $450 per load.

5. Later in the summer I will add 1/4" of what the city calls its "green" compost (summer crop) to established lawn. May or may not put on new seedlings.

6. We put down our coated seed early in the morning and by noon we had little purple piles all over the yard. Why? ANTS! They were piling it up and taking it down into holes. We had to treat for ants right away. This June will will treat for ants before we seed bare spots.

Again to emphasize, I am not an expert, but I hope my experience will be beneficial to you. Good luck.

Don't know why you'd wait for 6 months to do what the lawn will appreciate being done now.
If the ground is in poor shape, all you'll get from waiting is a lawn in worse shape....maybe a mud pit in the interim.

Its true, in the fall, the seeds have less competition from weeds and therefore, will germinate more precisely.
But....fall is the best time.
Spring is not the 2nd worse......its the second best time.
Summer seeding meets all kinds of adversity....but when you have to go.......oops....I mean 'do'. Given particular help, seed will grow anythime.

Compost will only prevent the seed from germinating properly. A half-inch of topsoil (yours or other) strewn over the seed to keep it in place will suffice.

There are over 10,000 (average) seeds in a lb package.
Now how many seeds can a bird take in the time the others take to germinate.
Be kind to Ma Nature....let the birds have some.

I like to think if you want to give your lawn some compost, then have a lawn first and put it through a spreader--just like you would your fertilizer.
If you have to fill in depressions, then rake in some compost or topsoil, then overseed.

I don't myself have enough compost to do my lawn. I guess I could if I was so motivated. What I spread on my lawn is Starbucks coffee grounds. I would say I average about 2.5 five gallon buckets of grounds a day from my local Starbucks. I bought a mesh spreader, looks like a big roller with mesh sides. I dump the grounds/filters in there and then start spreading.
Most people here just do a fling type method, which I did also. IT works pretty good, had to go back and make sure to rake out the thicker areas.
What this is doing is to build up a richer soil for my lawn to grow in. Worms love the grounds, worms then leave behind a rich manure. The robins love my yard, are always picking at the worms in there. This is telling me that the grounds is working to bring the worms. It is amazing to me to watch my grass be thicker and nicer looking than the neighbors who do lots of chems.
I have over seeded both in the fall and spring. Early spring we have lots of rain. Come summer if my lawn really needs it I will water, but for the most part mine doesn't need it.
Sandy

About the end of April I add some well rotted sheep manure to the grass surface. I just lightly throw it around. Done this for years with excellent results. This is about $2/bag and 10 bags does it all. Lets the worms and other organisms do the work. I find it makes the grass thicker and less issue with dandelions and other weeds. We don't use any other chemicals on the lawn. At the end of September I'll add some compost over the lawn if I have any extra.