RockyRich,

I see a typo in my message. I have the MacKissic 12PT9, and not the 10PT9 that I typed.

And my wording about greasing the main bearing every 10 hours of use might be misinterpreted as meaning to also do those other maintenance tasks every 10 hours, which is not the case. Check the belt tension from time to time, or if it slips, or you accidentally "smoked" the belt. Change oil between seasons, or more frequently if you use the machine a lot. I use Mobile One 5w30 in the winter and Mobile One 10w30 in the summer. I have been using my machine for over 3 years and I haven't reversed my hammers yet, although I will probably do that on my next maintenance session.

MM

My local dealer in eastern PA has an exchange program on the knife. For $8.00 you return your old one and get a freshly honed blade.

He stressed "honed" because the heat from sharpening them will remove the temper and result in an easily dulled blade.

Baymee,

I wish my dealer had a knife blade exchange program like that. My blade replacement kit cost was three or four times that much. Your dealer is right; sharpening the knife blade on an ordinary grinding wheel would de-temper the edge area and, in effect, ruin the blade.

Since I did purchase a blade replacement kit, I will install the new sharp blade and keep the old dull blade to be sharpened when I can find time. Actually, I am planning to purchase a Tormek sharpening system. It was discussed in relation to a MacKissic shredder-chipper in the DR 10hp chipper or Mackissic Merry mac pull along 10hp message thread, among other places.

The Tormek wet wheel sharpening system is a multi-hundred dollar investment, but I will be able to use it to sharpen a lot of things, including axes, garden tools, kitchen knives, scissors, pocket knives, machetes and, of course, my MacKissic chipper knife blades with the help of the Tormek SVH-320 Jointer and Planer Blade Attachment.

MM

MM, Don't you have a sharpening guy near you? He could hone it.

Thanks to everyone on the Tool Shed Forum, and especially Maineman, for "guiding" me towards the purchase of a MacKissac Mighty Mac. I bought a used one (8hp)that looked like it was brand new, but according to the people at MacKissac it was built in 1991. Like Maineman, I thought I would buy a new blade so that when I get the used blade sharpened, I would not experience any down time. I called the local distributor, and was told that a new blade (same blade as the new machines) would cost around C$130 (around US$117). Based on Baymee's dealer's $8.00 exchange program and Maineman's response that his "replacement kit cost was three or four times that much" it seems that the price I was quoted is astronomical. Any idea what a reasonable price for a replacement blade should be, and where I can get one. Also, Maineman's kit came with a plastic gauge to measure the gap, but my local distributor said he had never heard of this tool and he just sells the blades. Thanks

John

John,

I paid about $35 (USD) for my Knife Kit, part number 913-0259, about a year ago. It comes in a small box that measures approximately 7" x 2½" x 1". The price your distributor quoted is wildly wrong. Is this the distributor you contacted?

Robert Laning & Sons Ltd.
289 Leamon Street
Waterford, Ontario NOE 1Y0
519-443-8601

You might want to contact MacKissic directly about this.

MACKISSIC, INC.
P.O. BOX 111
Parker Ford, PA 19457-0111

PHONE: 1-800-348-1117

FAX: 610-495-5951

EMAIL: info@mackissic.com

OFFICE HOURS: 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. Monday - Friday

Last year when I asked my dealer here in Maine about getting a new blade, they said that for safety reasons it was available only in the kit with new screws, the LocTite 243, and the gap gauge along with the new knife. So I ordered the kit.

MM

FWIW, I could not get the blades off of my chipper so I asked MacKissic if they had any tips. They said to heat up the screws with a torch to get the LocTite loose. I haven't tried it yet, but it makes sense.

MaineMan - I bought the Tormek and it is a nice machine, but I overestimated the amount that I would use it and am probably going to sell it sooner or later. If I were a woodworker I am sure it would be worthwhile, but I think it is more than I need just to keep the kitchen knives and the occasional tool sharp. BTW, I don't have the planer blade attachment so I will probably be semi free-handing my chipper blade on the Tormek. Given the thickness of the bevel, it shouldn't be too hard to hold the angle by hand. It will certainly be easier than free-handing small knives (like smaller pocket knives or pairing knives), which is what you have to do with them on the Tormek.

Greg

Greg,

"BTW, I don't have the planer blade attachment, so I will probably be semi free-handing my chipper blade on the Tormek."

I plan to get the Tormek SVH-320 Jointer and Planer Blade Attachment, because I don't trust my ability to hold the blade at a constant bevel. And I will be sharpening axe blades and garden hoes fairly frequently. I understand that attachment can also be used to sharpen lawnmower blades.

Sorry you're having trouble loosening the knife screws. The screws have to be very secure, because if they came loose during chipping, that couldn't end well.

MM

Heating even causes the permanant loc-tite to fail, it's a useful technique. Further, one can hammer on the bolts (requires a breaker bar and allen adapter for a 3/8" or 1/2" drive for optimum effect). Put in the allen adapter and the breaker bar flexed at right angle, then bang sharply on the adapter end of the breaker bar so the blows are directed on the bolt end. Or you could use an extension to bang on, but the extension may be destroyed by the process.

Believe me - I tried pounding and leverage. I bought an allen socket from sears (after ruining a cheap one) and I twisted the shank on that one too. When I get the chipper out I will take another crack at getting the blade/knife off with the heat. I've probably got one more cut with the Wheel Horse and then I will drop the deck and mount the chipper on it for the winter (or at least the fall). For the rest of the season I'll mow and mulch leaves with a smaller simplicity deck that has a mulching kit and leaf shredders.

Greg

I, too, have been unable to get the allen screws out, even with some heat. My unit is older and does not have the access door that MM talks about. So, it requires a lot more disassembly to access the allen screws. My guess is that much more heat will be required to get those screws out.

Thanks, MM, for the helpful info. Thanks, baymee, for the tip about the exchange program. Finally, as an alternative to buying that expensive (and wonderful) Tormek system, find a friend who is in the woodworking business. He is bound to have one already!

Rich

I called Mackissic about getting a blade set from them and they said I had to call a dealer. Gave up for now but may order a set in the future in preparation for a blade change on my 12PT10

Hi all,

I just tried to do the blade change on my MacKissic 12PT9 shredder-chipper, using Liquid Wrench, WD40, a Bernzomatic torch, and a Sears Craftsman 3/16ths hex socket. The first screw came out OK after repeated effort.

The second screw rounded off in the hex hole and most certainly will have to be removed with a screw extractor, if that is even possible. I suspect it was at least partially rounded in the factory assembly, because I didn't apply a lot of effort to round it.

The third screw broke my Craftsman 3/16ths hex socket, which our local Sears cheerfully replaced for free.

All three screws had the benefit of Liquid Wrench penetrant, WD40 penetrant, torch heating, and hex torquing with simultanous hammer tapping. They all should have come out with less difficulty than the first one did. The rounded second screw is particularly worrisome, because I have visions of my screw extractor breaking off as easily as the hex socket did on the third screw. It would be essentially impossible to remove the screw with a broken extractor in it. In that case, I might be looking at a flywheel replacement.

My recent experience corroborates the problems others have reported. This has been an eye opener for me. This blade replacement is way more difficult than it should be. I suspect it is symptomatic of a design flaw, and I intend to contact MacKissic about this matter. I'll keep you posted.

MM

Just some thoughts by a shade-tree farmer/mechanic, which may or may not have utility or merit for others: The flywheel is flat as I recall, with only the bolts holding the blade. If two bolts came out then the blade should rotate about the third, assisting in extraction. If heat is necessary, the bolts need to be heated with a very strong heat source so they get very hot, to the point of discoloring but perhaps not cherry red (unless the bolt is to be replaced). Then let it cool back down so the bolt shrinks back. I use acetylene torch, MAP fuel might work too. Been a long time since I tried propane. With the hex hole stripped, you might grind a little groove on one side and turn the bolt with some sharp blows on a cold chisel. Too, bashing the head of the bolt will mushroom in the hex part, then you can drive in the hex socket for a second (somewhat inferior) go. When all else fails I weld a nut on the end of the bolt. The extra heat from the welder and the extra force possible usually does the trick. You can see why I prefer the weaker thread-loc adhesives. So far I've had no great difficulty removing these particular bolts without heat. They do come out every few months, though, and then get reinstalled with sharp knives. Hope MacKissic has good advice, I look forward to it.

Try PB-Blaster. It is sooooo much better than WD-40 or liquid wrench. At this point it may not help much, but for future removals of rusty stuff, I HIGHLY recommend it.

bas157,

Thanks for the tip about PB-Blaster. I'll give it a try.

MM

Thanks to all especially bbriggs and maineman for the education on chippers. Threads on removal and sharpening chipper blades have been very helpful for this shade tree chipper. I used the original blades for what I estimate was 60 hours before removing them for sharpening. Had trouble getting the screws out, but heating around the head of the socket screws on my McKissic tph 183 did the trick. After sharpening, I installed blades with Loc-tite 242 (permanent?). The blades held up for about three week's daily use (approx 60 hours) on the same very hard chapparal and live oak. When they got dull enough for me to get sore arms from stuffing the limbs down the chute I removed them again (without heat this time) and turned them over to same local vendor for sharpening. Found out from him today that he sharpens dry. Makes me wonder if they're ruined-- but the hours on the sharpenend blades didn't seem less than the original use. I'm in the process of ordering some new blades, just in case. By the way, the chipper with sharp blades is a dream. LM

Has any body tried to replace the wear plate on the chipping shute ? The only way I could clean out the heads of the allen set screws was to take the entire side off the machine ( 12pt. 7 hp) This involved removing the spring clip around the bearing and then benching the entire side. Through some trial and error I was able to adjust the wear plate and replace the side. Not a difficult job after all. Has any body inquired as to the price of a new wear plate ?
Dave D.

RockyRich,
Did you find anything on the wear plate. I have an old Mighty Mac, 16 HP Briggs, towable, electric starter/generator,24" flywheel,2 blades, 9 inch tires, blade pn 030-0498(804-0016)
However can't find the wear plate.
Bill Berlin
Hollister, CA

Bill,

It was Dave, and not RockyRich, who left the last message about the wear plate, so you may not get a response from RockyRich. You also won't get a response from MaineMan because I am the former MaineMan and have changed my identity to ZenMan since I recently moved from Maine to Kansas.

Since your Mighty Mac has a 16HP Briggs, I suspect it is one of the older models, SC150-12E or SC150HT-12E (depending on whether it is "yard towable" or "highway towable"). The current model SC1650 would be essentially identical to your model (but costing considerably more) and many of its parts would be interchangeable with your SC150.

The parts list for the SC1650 lists the knife as Item # 8, Part Number 030-0498, which agrees with the pn 030-0498 that you referred to. For that reason, I suspect that your wear plate would be Item # 23, Part Number 910-0044 in the parts list (refer to page 5 of the 7-page SC1650 Assembly and Parts List.)

I suggest you contact MacKissic Tech Support for information directly "from the horse's mouth" on how you can obtain a wear plate for your unit.

ZM

I just purchased a Mighty Mac 12PT w/ a 9hp engine, circa 2004, the price was right at $500. One problem, the blade needs to be replaced and the screws are completely stripped. Does anyone have an idea on how to remove the screws without disassembling the machine?

Anyone have success w/ the Grabit extractors? Would heat, PB Blaster and then JB Weld a nut onto the screws potentially work or would I need to actually weld a nut on (I don't have a welder).

Also, the oil drain sits directly over the frame of the machine with almost no room underneath it, how are people changing the oil in these without having it run all over the frame??

Thx

Thx