Check the crankcase lube oil level, you will likely find it is overful and smells of gasoline. If this is true, post back and we will discuss what you need to do. When you post back, give us some details of the other problems you had with the engine in the spring. But do not run the engine at all if it does in fact have gasoline in the lube oil.

Nevermind on the other issues, I did a search and found them. I'm thinking. Going to the manual.

Yes I believe there is gas in the lube oil. Removes dip stick and it and the tube smells of gas. Thank you in advance

On my CV15, it ran fine, but the fuel pump mounted on the side of the engine (like a seventines ford) was for some reason putting gas into the crank, replaced fuel pump and solved problem...

I don't believe mine has a fuel pump! Any more idea's?

Stace, any chance you have not gotten into the habit of turning off the fuel shutoff valve when the engine is not running? I reviewed your threads from March 2010 and I can't think of any reason your carb would be draining fuel from the tank into the carb and on to the engine unless you have not been turning off the fuel valve when you stop the engine. But it is going to be hard to say your oil is FULL of gas, or if it just has the "smell of gas" simply because the engine has only been running a few seconds at a time lately.
If you freely admit that you have forgotten to turn off the gas, that would explain a lot of gas in the oil, and the gas and oil blowing out the muffler. It could even explain why the engine only runs a few seconds after starting.

mownie i did forget to shut the valve off the last time. I drained the oil out and poured 1 quart back in ran for several min's then shut off and drained that oil out. I re filled to proper oil level and mower is running fine now except for the bluish gray smoke but it's getting better. Now the blades won't engage when I pull the pto handle. It's always something. I checked the battery and it has 13.2 volt so it's not a voltage problem. Any ideas

Turn the key to "on" position, but do not start engine. Pull the PTO switch and listen for a click. If no click, disconnect the wires at the PTO and check for voltage (you might need somebody to sit on the seat while you do this). No voltage = wiring problem or switch (either ignition switch or PTO switch). Are we talking about a Deere STX?

I have a PDF manual on testing and adjusting the PTO clutch. There is a good chance the clutch needs a simple air gap adjustment. e-mail if you want it.

mownie would love to have the manual please send to sstaceyswims@aol.com

And yes this is a stx38. Also I believe there is something wrong with the ign. switch cause when I turn it off the engine keeps running I have to push up into choke to get it to die. but the last time I mowed this was a problem and the blades worked. any help would be welcome

PTO working thanks everyone. But I do want to ask a question. Why does the gas drain from the tank into the crankcase if you forget to turn the shut off valve off? I have had mowers before that didn't even have a shut off valve and never had this problem.

you were lucky. All that keeps that gas from leaking is a dinky little needle valve closed by a float. Just one good sizred speck of trash can keep that needle from seating and - given enuff time - will let all the gas in yer tank drain directly into the crankcase oil, diluting same and robbing the engine of normal lubrication.
an inline shutoff valve (inexpensive) acts as a safety backup... and - if used properly - prevents old gas from sitting inside carb causing varnish buildup. during extended storage.

What did you find wrong with the PTO?

The pto problem is apparently in the ignition switch. I just turned it a little past run and the pto started working. Ordered a new switch this morning. Do you think this will fix the problem I have with the engine not turning off when I turn the key to the off position?

It should. Just make sure that your draw a diagram, take pix, etc. of existing sw terminals before replacing. Also mark each wire before dis-assembling so that you get new switch properly hooked up. Disconnect plus (+) side of battery at it's post before starting repair.

Voice of experience: Do as rcbe said - diagrams, notes, pictures. Not all STX's used the same switch; I have two, and the ignition switches are different - matter of fact, so are the PTO switches.

As a general rule, a gravity feed fuel system (entire fuel tank higher than carb) is prone to leaking fuel past the needle valve for a few different reasons. Some folks adamantly proclaim that a properly working needle valve will ensure against gasoline flowing out of the carb and drowning the engine and those people usually say phooey to the recommendation to add an inline fuel cutoff valve. Taken at face value, their philosophy has some truth in it. But not enough truth for me to live by. I say if it is fed by gravity, Murphy's Law shall prevail. Sooner or later, the needle will fail to seat tight enough to stop the flow of fuel and you will have a huge problem. One episode could be a drastic as complete engine destruction, or only as bad as having to toss out a quart and a half of otherwise perfectly good oil. Shutoff valves are cheap, engines are not.

Thanks to each and every person that takes the time to share there wisdom on this site. You're help is greatly appreciated. If not for this forum and people that are willing to help like you this minor fix's could cost people lots of money. I for one am very thankful. Maybe one day I will be able to help someone on here as well.