Chuck Some people use a drywall screw to remove the caps by screwing it in kind of tight then turning it counterclockwise untill the tab lines up with slot and then pull. Sometimes the screw will unscrew when turning counterclockwise, then use a screwdriver to aline the slots and screw the screw back in but not so hard that you get the tab and slot unlined, the pull. You should find way more power a little richer, tune it to where it cuts the fastest not to where it revs the highest. Steve

I have removed the starter assembly and am looking down
at two orange plastic slotted discs, neither of which
want to turn.

What to I want to do with the drywall screw? Thread it
into the center of a slot and screw down till it lifts the
plastic cap up and out?? Looks like that will just chew
up the cap.

Manual "implies" that there is some adjustment with the
limiters (the caps??) in place but I cannot see how
to get anything thru the cap and into the screw.

Suggestions for the technically inept??

chuck

Make sure the slots are lined up before gently srewing in the drywall screw. Just be real careful. I haven't seen an Echo saw yet that didn't need the carb adjusted richer.

They should turn a little in the clockwise direction, use a screwdriver that fits those slots good. If you turn them back and forth you should be able to see where the tabs are and the slot they have to come through to get them out. Just put the screw in tight enough so you can pull the caps out when the slot and tabs are alined. Kind of repeating the post above. Steve

First, many thanks to youse guys for the help.

Very carefully I did get the plastic cap off the
H limiter screw and will experiment with that
adjustment. Whew!

When done, should I try to replace the cap?? The
screw seems stiffish so I don't think vibration
would change the setting ... but I dunno.

Wotcher think??

chuck

I've been leaving mine off, if you put them back on grind the tabs off so you can adjust for temp and gas. If your saw doesn't accelerate good off idle the low will need to be opened up a little also. I had to open the high almost 1/2 turn on the high for best power on my 370. Steve

I always put them back on, but that's just me. They may back out in time,who knows. Now that saw will run. Thanks!

Thanks to all. The saw is running much better now
with both needles opened up.

If I want to replace the caps, do I remove both
tabs (top indexes into slot; bottom seems to
set the limit)?? Or just one or the other??

chuck

I have a new CS-400 from Echo and I found that if I let it warm up a bit on first start it eliminates any further stalling issues. What I found the first few times I used her was the chain didn't respond so I figured I'd just let it warm up a bit. Once it fires up and runs it restarts on first pull. On restarts I leave the choke closed as instructed. On first start (when it's cold) I also follow the book and it works- open the choke full and pull. On my second pull it turns over so I close it, and she starts on the next pull with the choke closed. I don't mess with the screws if it's running for me: if it ain't broke don't fix it. Good luck.