Yep, $10 is about as cheap as a basic test goes. Probably the best deal is from U Mass - $10 includes the usual micros. I use the TAMU lab which costs a bit more for the equivalent ($24), but they know the TX environment and soils, and their methods are optimized to those. Soil test methods tend to be optimized based upon predominant regional soil and environmental characteristics. That's just one of the reasons most cheap home kits are a miss. Some of the more sophisticated DIY kits are actually pretty decent, but they end up costing more per test than a state lab.

You don't need to test every year - about every 3 years is good, unless you are growing intensively with multiple cropping's per year. In Zone 5, I suspect that's not the case.

Some thoughts/questions - Pick 4 to do per year, and rotate year to year. Do you amend/treat those beds differently, or were the base soils different? If so, can they be grouped into common practices or soils (these beds get A, those get B, etc.)? If that's the case pick one or two from a similar treatment or practice to test each year, and until you know otherwise assume the others in the same treatment group are the same. The relative precision typical of soil tests is typically about +/- 10%, so for comparison of two tests the range is close to +/- 20% before you can consider any differences significant.

Yea, I knew I didn't need to test it every year. I just wondered if the "composition" of the various beds would become different because of the type of plants grown there.

For example, it's my understanding that something that beans will add nitrogen to the soil. So if I choose to test only a few of the beds and one of them had beans grown in it last year, then it won't really be representative of the contents of a lot of the other beds.

Just curious how other people deal with that.

In North Carolina, routine NC Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services soil tests are provided at "no direct cost" to NC residents because of funding derived from a statewide fee on commercial fertilizer. I hadn't realized it was so expensive in other states.

Lucky you! I did hear from a friend tonight that some of the local garden centers offer free soil tests in the spring. Unfortunately, I missed it this year but I'll make sure to use it next year.

California no longer offers free tests (we're an AG state! go figure!)
I usually just keep adding aged manure, compost, UCGs etc.
Works for me! Nancy

Unless you are planning on growing plants with very specific nutrient and soil pH requirements in eaxh of those beds there is no good reason to test each one seperately. Most plants will do fine in a soil with the soil pH in the 6.2 to 6.8 range and the P, K, Ca, and Mg in balance. A soil test is one tool to use to help you make intelligent decisions about what needs to be done, if anything.
In addition to a good, reliable soil test for soil pH aand major nutrient levels these simple soil test can be of some help,
1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

kimm is generally right - so long as your plantings are similar in nature (veg vs. flowers, etc.) and don't have specific or unusual needs (pH for blueberries, etc.), and your soils in those beds are basically the same from origin, then you can treat them the same within those boundaries. Even with different veggies, most of the nutrients will stay about the same, at least within the ability of a soil test's precision with the exception of N, which needs to approached seasonally anyway.

When you submit a soil sample for testing you typically will be asked what is grown in that soil. Unless you are growing a specific crop on a large scale (wheat, corn soybeans, etc.), and the use will indicated generically - vegetable garden, annual flowers, shrubs, etc. At least here in TX the state lab forms have allowances for plantings that ted to have specific needs, like azaleas, roses, fruit trees, ... The results will be presented based upon the use you indicate. So group by use, take a representative sampling - you could take some from each bed and mix, or rotate year to year - and get 'em tested. The pull from each and mix would further reduce the costs - one sample fits X beds.

This post was edited by TXEB on Fri, May 17, 13 at 10:43