I have seen people put something like a spring that fit the thread in on an over sized thread hole and screw it back in. Wait for some other suggestions and if none work,you might want to try wrap a little aluminum foil around the thread and screw the plug back in by force( a new plug so if it work, you have a least one more year)

A thread insert can be installed. 80 bucks or less? Probably right around that price, maybe a bit more. To do safely the cylinder should be removed as cutting new threads for the insert can dump metal shaving into the combustion chamber. The only way to be sure they don't get left inside the engine is to make sure they never get in there to start with.

The job can certainly be done for less if you want to risk metal shavings be left inside and not removing the cylinder. If you're handy you could remove the cylinder and take it to the shop for just the actual repair. In these cases we charge 15 bucks plus the insert which is around 5 bucks. You will also need a new cylinder gasket.

Do you really want me to comment about the fuel spitting out the carb since day one? Well do you? I doubt it.

Thats fuel out the exhaust(not carb)

Sorry, that's what I meant. I still want to know if he's a glutten for punishment or not.

Thanks for the help everyone.

"Do you really want me to comment about the fuel spitting out the carb since day one? Well do you? I doubt it."

I feel like I'm being set up here, but yeah I really do want to know.

"If you're handy you could remove the cylinder and take it to the shop for just the actual repair."

You having a laugh? Sure, I got mad skillz.

yungman, I like the way you think. Aluminum foil--that's insane, although guys like us might be better off using the foil to make hats so the government can't read our thoughts. :)

I work with a lot of PhDs in research for a long time and I publish papers in scientific journals. You'll be surprise how simple and ridiculous the way they solve problems.
In short. spending $80 to rethread!!!! For a $200 old trimmer!!! Pull the cylinder out? If I were to do that, I might as well buy a new cylinder. Don't worry about how well the cylinder fitting with the old piston and just run it. Or buy a new piston so you pretty much get a new engine.
If I have this problem, I will definitely use some sort of foil or wind something( .009 guitar strings or better some bare coper wires from an old small motor) on the plug and try it. What do you get to loose? If it dosen't work, you just be back to where you are.... still need to rethread!!! I suggest aluminum foil because you can get it in super market and it is sofer than your cylinder thread so if it does not work, it won't put more damage than what you did. You can even try using only a small strip, stick it down 1/4 inch into the hole and screw the plug in while you hold the strip to keep it in place. All it takes is something to push the threads against each other tight and tightent just enough. Put some high temp. gasket sealer on the ring of the spark plug so it seal when dry. If I were to do it, I am sure I can fix it back for less than 2 dollars.....If all else fail, then write back and laugh at me and go spent the money for rethreading. Think outside the box..... Thats just my opinion.

Forgot to say, if you decide to try it, put the trimmer on the table and position the plug hole facing down so any foil break off should fall out instead of falling into the cylinder when you remove the plug to adjust the width of the strip. Try the strip of about 3/8 inch wide first, if it is too tight, trim it down.

The answer to your problem is helicoils. Check out this site for more info.

http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil/default.asp

That foil idea is horrible. Just buy a helicoil and do it right. What does he have to lose? Well, for one it could be really dangerous. A spark plug takes quite a but of pressure and if it was to come loose while running it could fly out and hurt someone. Nevermind the fact it would probably not work anyway. Helicoils are dirty cheap and work great, it's the right way to fix it.

I think the foil is not for holding the plug, it just press against the thread and the thread hold the plug.

BUT I WILL NEVER ARGUE FOR SAFETY!! DON'T DO IT IF THAT IS A CONCERN. I won't want to get people hurt, it's only money, I rather be wrong than to hurt someone!!!!

You mean you can just fit the helicoil in without taking any steps that produce metal shaving? I don't think so. Parts may be cheap but unless you know what to do, labor is going to cost. The trimmer is old and is the cheaper model. I would buy a new one and use it as parts since he already have things coming out from one end or the other( from the mouth or the ass!!!)!!!! Also using it only few times a year, unless he is keen on running it to dry every time and use fresh gas. I would keep the carb as spare!!!! I have to change mine because I am using ones every month only. After 3 years, it die. I just bought a spare engine to play with and I use that carb.

Bottom line if it cost less than $20, fix it, more than that, I'll consider use it as parts....and lesson one, don't tighten the plugs too much. We learn from auto, just barely tighten it. The wire will keep it from shaking loose.

Heli-Coils are OK but they realy are inferior to more modern inserts. One good one is Time-Sert which is a solid insert rather then the flimsy coiled wire Heli-Coil.

Regarding the muffler spitting out fuel.. From day one? I'm gonna try to be nice here and say I don't believe it. It makes no sense that someone would buy something, have trouble from the get go and never use the warranty to get it taken care of.

I would watch ebay for a engine head just for parts and remove the head and piston and installed it on yours. Some can go as cheap as 10 bucks plus shipping. For 80 bucks you could probably find another complete one on ebay.

yungman, I didn't intend to offend you. I was just joking around trying to cover my embarrassment for making such a stupid mistake. I'm sorry.

Anyway, after searching the internet and calling a couple echo dealers I have come up with a few options I would like your input.

1. Dealer A claimed you can't use an insert. He said, because the spark plug port is angled in the cylinder that the tool would hit the cylinder wall. He did say he could replace the cylinder for approx $40 parts and $35 labor.

2. Dealer B said he could use a heli coil, but would have to remove the cylinder to do it properly for about the same price $75.

3. I could try to do the heli insert myself, however the concept seems simple but the execution may be more difficult. If I failed I could always go with option 1.

I guess the main question is whether the trimmer is worth this investment or not. It really is in very good condition and seems like a waste to toss out.

The other question is if the wet muffler indicates another expensive problem.

Thanks for the input so far.

With option 3 you have:
a learning experience even if it fails
a "C" ticket down the tool isle
a backup plan

you won't get dirty past the elbows
it's not a "mission critical" item
more help than you can stand right here

Not so sure a new cylinder is only 40 bucks but I don't have a price list handy to double check. He's an idiot anyway. Yes the angle is a problem but it only means the tool to cut the threads for the insert needs to have the guide removed, ground off. This of course means a steady hand is needed to cut the insert threads straight. He can't handle it so let him go.

Dealer B is right, as I said the only proper way is to remove the cylinder. His price sounds about right as well. Check with him about the cost of a new cylinder, see if its only 40 bucks like the first dealer said. I really doubt it is that cheap. Dealer A may be wanting to install a good used cylinder which is fine if it is really good but since he doesn't know how to modify his thread tool to do an insert I have a problem with him.

Do it yourself and you have to buy the kit/tools besides the insert. At this point I would not suggest you are really wanting to try this. If you fail you will be out the cost of the tools [one which you need to modify] you may never use again.

Is it worth having dealer "B" do it? If you're right about it running good, certainly. Wet muffler? Hmm, changed your terminology didn't you. Bet it wasn't spitting from the get go either. A muffler drooling dark ugly fuel is an indication that the spark arrester is clogged with carbon build up. It also means the engine hasn't been performing with the power it once had. The spark arrestor is just a metal screen stuck between the muffler deflector and the muffler. 3 or 4 screws hold the deflector on to the muffler and access to the screen.

One of those hand held propane torches works good to heat the screen red hot and while still hot brush it off with a wire brush. I like using a tooth brush sized brush but any small wire brush will work. Brush off the carbon while red hot,use a pair of pliers to hold one end of the screen. Heating and brushing often takes 2 or 3 rounds to get it truly clean. Reinstall the screen and your power will be restored along with getting rid of the fuel drooling. The repair shop can do this while doing the insert if you wish.

Something else to consider. I always like to give the customer the option anyway. I prefer to replace the piston rings as long as the cylinder is off. I believe this is a 2 ring piston and rings are 10-12 bucks each but in my opinion well worth the extra cost. The labor is already there anyway. Swaping the rings at that point is no big deal.

Hi Jdhancey
I am fine don't worry about anything. I enjoy brain stomming like this. I come up with something and if someone shot it down, I might learn something. I retrack my opinion because Joecool85 mensioned about safety and no matter how sure I was, I don't want anyone to take a chance on my behalf.

If it is this expensive, business wise, I would still consider buying a new one. Yours use a Votex engine and only have one compression ring. I'll include the link to the part list and all you have to do is look at your serial # and choose the right one. As I mensioned before. My situation is same in the sense that I use mine occationally and I did have a carb problem. I think it's because of old gas and not using for prolong period time. I agree with one of the respond from "rcmoser" to look on ebay. I bought my engine on ebay just for fun and it turn out it really save my day ( trimmer!!) The carb went out and I just change it and is good as new. Your engine is "Power built Votex" I believe it is used on a lot of the models. From my link, you can back up and look at at the Echo that has 21.2cc Votex engine and go into the part list the double check the cylinder part number. Go on ebay and find engines with the correct cylinder. Just make sure to ask whether the engine have compression and not frozened. I bought 5 or 6 different engines on ebay and 3 of them have no compression ( I guess more people forget to put oil than I though!!!) and the cylinder wall is all scratch up. You also might get other useful parts out of it. My trimmer clutch is going and I know I have a spare one!!

Or if you are gagit head like me, use this as an excuse to buy a new and better one ( I just did and don't tell my wife about it!!!) Paying $75 to repair the trimmer with something coming out of somewhere......I prefer ebay route. Your piston is so new I doubt it even run enough to set in the cylinder, changing another cylinder might not be that bad.

BTW to everyone I have posted a question about using fuel stabilizer and mine is no where as popular as this posting. Please help out by giving your opinion on that.

http://www.echo-usa.com/documentation.asp?Model=SRM-210&lang=E

Blowing fuel out the exhaust from day one IMO is a starting procedure problem. IMO you may be pushing the primer button too many times thus filling the crank sump with raw gas. Then when you pull the cord the raw fuel gets the plug wet and the excess is forced up and goes out the muffler. one the liquid fuel is disapated the engine will fire and probably runs ruff till the rich condition is gone. The problem with primer buttom is we can't tell when there is the right amount of gas in the comb chamber for starting. We usually pump them too much and the raw fuel in two strokes ends up in the bottom of the crank sump thus creating an over primmed condition. Don't beleive me take the sump cover off and look in next time it gets flooded.

Here is an old "Indian" trick I was taught when using heilcoils or a better replacement, such as a "keensert" or "Timesaver," on spark plug holes without removing cylinder or cylinder head.

I wouldn't necessarily recommend this procedure on such a relatively inexpensive proper repair, but it can come in handy for an auto engine that you do not want to tear apart to fix.

These are solid inserts, designed for stripped spark-plug holes. May not be available for that engine, I've typically seen them for auto engines.

Anyway, the trick is to:

1.) Put cylinder at BDC (Bottom dead center) of compression stroke (so on 4-cycles both valves will be closed as piston moves back up in step 4)
2.) Fill cylinder with shaving cream. (it will suspend metal shavings)
3.) Install Helicoil or insert.
4.) Crank engine without sparkplug, to blow shaving cream/metal shavings out of cylinder.
5.) For extra safety, used compressed air to blow out any remaining shaving cream/shavings

Sounds silly, but I learned it from a very seasoned mechanic.

No, I don't think it sounds silly at all!!! After that you can spray water using a wash bottle into the hole to remove the cream, spray alcohol to get rid of the water right away, fuel up and run the engine for a while ( trim all grass )to get rid of all the water and alcohol inside cylinder. You are done. Better than spending a lot of money taking it apart and all.
Question is how much is the cost of the tools?

I wouldn't use water to flush out the shaving cream, I'd use gasoline w/mix. I'm not 100% sure I'd feel comfortable doing that on an expensive engine, but I'd give it a go on an older one that I don't feel like dismanteling. Also, if you decide to go this route, I would take the carb and exhaust off so that when the piston moves up and down while you are cleaning the shaving cream out it won't get into them and gum them up.

Also, if the new cylinder is indeed only $40, I would buy a new one and put it on. I wouldn't bother with rings unless it needed them. If you run them right, the rings on these things last damn near forever (when using them for occasional use, not daily business use).

jmherbert
Thanks so much for the shaving cream method. Sounds like a great way to keep the cost down by not needing to remove the cylinder, or for that matter the head on a 4 stroke.

Even old dogs can learn new tricks.

That shave cream technique sounds better than the grease on the drill & tap method. Maybe after pumping the cream out follow up with a teaspoon of oil for start up lube?

The reason I suggested using water and then alcohol is because gasoline do not dissolve shaving foam. I was a chemistry major and we learn solvent can be categorized into POLAR( water) on one end and NONPOLAR( oil ) on the other end with alcohol, acetone and ether progressively in between from water to oil. The way to clean is to start from the closest kind to the foam( water) and progress to oil. Water clean the foam. Alcohol can mix with water, so it will dissolve foam ok. DONÂT EVEN THINK OF USING ACETONE AND ETHER. Acetone eat all plastic, EHTER IS SO DANGEROUS the vapor can roll from one end of the table to the other end and catch on fire and burn back. If you try to clear the shaving foam out with gasoline, it will just cake up and make a big mess. If you really worry, spray the chamber with carb cleaner from auto store after alcohol, problem is I think it will attack some plastic. Alcohol is the safest for the rest of the trimmer.
You have to hang the trimmer upside down so solvent will drip out of the hole. Use foam to do the thing, use wash bottle to spray water into the chamber to dissolve the foam and let it drip out. Repeat the same procedure with alcohol to clean out all the water. Now you are already in the flammable category. Gas up and run the engine, trim the whole lawn and burn the rest of the alcohol away.

As for spending $75 to do the right way. This is really the second lowest line of Echo. It has a single ring engine. If it is a SRM-260 or Shindaiwa T3410, I would agree, those are higher end ones. Same reason apply that you would not try the foam idea on a Mercedes. On an old Hyndai, yes. It is all about economics.

I think getting a match engine on ebay have merit also. You can have other spare parts along with the cylinder. He uses the trimmer occasionally and there are things coming out from one end or the other! He can use a spare carb or the spark arrestor. Problem is youÂll be taking a big chance.

But if you are gearhead like me, I bought 6 engines on ebay, take it apart to look at it, that is a different story!!! Then go for the right fix just for the sake of it.

Not sure what size spark plug your trimmer takes, but why not try something like this below. One way to reduce the amount of shavings going into the cylinder head is to add grease to the chaser. Most of the shavings will stick to the grease.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_73464_-1

Hi Jdhancey
So what's happening. Are you sitting back and enjoy the rest of us going back and forth???!! Don't leave us hanging now, let us know what you did. This is like a story, after all the twist and turn, now what is the ending!!!!

This thread made me snort water onto my keyboard.

Thanks to some of you guys!

I don't know what the big deal is fix it or throw it a way so somebody like me can get about 10 more years use out of it. I dought it was over tighen, but probably crossthreaded or a sliver of metal gulled up the threads going in and it wiped them out coming out.

I agree, most likely cross threaded. Always put the plug back in carefully with your fingers only, being careful to keep it parallel with the hole. A steel plug going into an aluminum head can easily start its own threads. Don't over torque of course.
Not that this helps the original problem.

Out of curiousity, I check both of my Echo hedge trimmer and Shindaiwa blower(new), The plug are both very tight, need a lot of force to turn it loose. What happen, we tighten the plugs in the cars much looser. We barely tighten the plugs. NO wonder he strip the thread!!!!

As edsacre mentioned, it is a steel plug threaded into
an aluminum head. *dissimilar metals*. Always use
anti-seize.

What do you mean about dissimilar metal? Car's head mostly make of aluminum also. What is anti-seize?

This thread is taking on a life of its own.
Anti-seize is a paste that keeps threaded fasteners from rusting or "cold welding" together. No more stuck bolts.

Auto parts store next to the Locktight. Befor you ask that's a liquid to stick bolts tobether, like a chemical lock washer. It comes in different flavors (strengths).

Now if some yo-yo befor you didn't use the anti-seize, you can put some penetrating oil on the nut or bolt. I use Liquid Wrench because the can has probably been passed down several generations in the family. It seems like P B Blaster is the choice of the new generation and Kroil is what the insiders use.

Anti-seize is a lubricant applied to the threads to help prevent seizing or gulling of the threads. Spark plug torque depends on weather it has a crush gasket or angled seat. Either way once seated a 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn is all it takes to reach maximum torque.

the problem with theads is any dirt or faulty (dull) thead cutter make small inclusions in the threads. without cleaning or anti-seize applied the threads may break a sliver off or become gulled. When this happens the spark plug or bolt goes down alittle tighter than normal, but when you try to remove it the gulled threads get waded up in the thread grooves and the plug wipes the thread off which ever metal is the softest or locked them togather.

If threads are clean over torquing generally don't cause gulling right off the bat unless a sliver of thread breaks off and get wound in the threads. However, continued over torquing weaken the threads and eventually they will fail.

Stop by Autozone or any auto parts place and buy a 14mm thread repair kit from Permatex. Everything you need is in the kit. No drilling or grinding and nothing to take apart. Buy a new plug while your there. SRM-210 Echo uses Champion CJ8 with a .025 gap. There arent any valves in this engine so forgo the shaving cream trick. Follow the instructions in the kit and everything should work out well.
Best wishes,
Bob.

Yeah, definitely forego the shaving cream trick. If the piston isn`t at or very near TDC when you attempt to fill the cylinder you will fill the base of the engine with whatever you put in through the plug hole via the transfer ports.