Mike, my Horse was delivered on 3/17/1986, and is SN 804943. You do know that Garden Way (original builder of TroyBilt) went belly-up, and MTD bought the rights to the tiller, don't you? I've heard that MTD is supporting the old Garden Way stuff, but don't know it for a fact; I have also heard that they changed some (if not all) the parts numbers. You shouldn't have any problem geting the Kohler book, but be darn sure you get the parts manual for the exact spec number of your engine.

Thanks for the response, I did call MTD with the serial number and they said it was a 1987-1991 vintage,but the guy I spoke with said he couldn't be positive. I also called Kohler and they said the motor was built in 1992.
It also has a flat tire, I bought a new tire to replace it but I am having a great deal of trouble getting the wheel off. I could replace the tire with the wheel on the machine but was wanting to replace the gear box/axle seals. Anybody have any tips on removing the wheels? Pins are out, used heat and penetrating oil, but no luck yet. I have it soaking now so maybe it will seep in eventually.
I was looking for gear lube today, I believe it calls for SAE 140 GL-3, but everywhere I went said it was no longer available. What would be a replacement lube for the transmission?

Mike

Removing wheels is pretty tough on the older Troy's. Whatever you do don't beat on it or you'll damage the tranny. I've read about these methods:

1. Lots of heat
2. Remove the pin and then just use the tiller. It'll eventually break free from the torque and vibration.
3. Make a backing plate and use a large gear puller. You might have to drill some holes thru the wheel's center plate.
4. Cut the wheel off with a die grinder and replace tire and wheel together.

I thought the factory gear oil spec. was SAE 140 GL-2. It's still avail. Check with NAPA or Farm and Ranch stores. Whatever you do don't use GL-4 or GL-5. The extra limited slip additives (ie sulfer based) in GL-4 and -5 are harmful to the brass components in the tranny. However you can safely use a synthetic gear oil. I'm using Royal Purple Max-Gear 85W-140 in mine and it doesn't use sulfer based additives.

Troy also allowed SAE 90 GL-2 but recommended it only if the tiller was to be used in cold temp conditions.

The old Garden Way Troy's with cast iron Kohler's are superior to anything out there and virtually indestructable. Get it restored and it'll serve you well.

Mine is approaching it's 25 yr anniversary and runs like new.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, after a closer look it looks like the previous owner tried to hammer the wheel off. What kind of damage should I look for to see if any was done? I also look at several parts manuals and I think my tiller is a 1991 model. I came to that conclusion by looking at the part number for the handle mount. Mine is 2534-A. The 1990 model has this part number but the serial number, according to the manual is located on the tranny housing by the right wheel, mine is on a sticker on top of tranny which I think appeared on the 1991 model for the first time. The 1992 model has different part numbers all together, seems the part number scheme changed with the 25th anniversary model. So maybe my machines parts were made in 1991 and wasn't assembled and sold till 1992 since the motor is a 1992 model, unless of course an engine swap was done in 1992.

Where do you get parts for these old Troy Bilt Tillers? Have any links online? The machine runs good, just having trouble getting the wheel off to replace the leaky seal. The tines wobble a little and am not sure if the bearings need to be replaced or not.

I am also looking for a service manual for the Tiller. I have a copy of the owners manual and parts manual. Where to get a service manual?

Sorry for my long winded post but I have a lot of questions and am eager to get this thing fully functional before spring comes. Want to put it to use! (G)

Mike

I'm sure not the best sourse for info, but i did do some repair/replacement of parts on the garden way tillers shouldn't be any play/wobble in the tines, just about every thing is solid built, and the seal/bronze bushings are installed using galvanized pipe of different diameters only special tool i can think of, was for the forward/reverse adjustment, on the yoke. and that can be modified easy enough. i didn't know about the GL 4 damage and have a old horse comning back i gave to nephew i rebuilt because he said the trans went out ? sure hope the gl4 didn't eat the brass ring :( Maybe i can help you more if nephew can locate the old repair/parts manual i gave him.....If i were you i would look into the tine wobble the bearings are easy to replace and might save the shaft and axle ? The manual is a real time saver.....just cut the wheel off and replace...after you look at the other pieces, like they say the weakest part is as strong as the mechine gets. :)

Mike, www dot repairmanual dot com will probably have one. Also, you might do a search on eBay; I remember seeing one on eBay a year or so ago that was on a CD (in pdf format).

Beating on the wheel can get the internal gears out of alignment to where they won't match up. (beating on the wheel actually pulls the driveshaft from the gears.) If it runs fine now, I doubt they're damaged. Try putting Slime in the tire and run the tiller until the wheel comes off then replace the tire.

I though MTD posted older Troy Bilt manuals somewhere on their site. I'd start by calling MTD.

A while back I stumbled onto a wonderful site that stocked older Troy Bilt parts. Sorry but I don't have the URL. Maybe someone will post it. If not try posting over at Yesterday's Tractors forum.

Tines can wobble a little but the tine holder shaft shouldn't. Are the end bolts that go thru the tine holders tight. Are the holder keyways intact?

MIke-
I have an older (mid 70s) TroyBilt Horse. I have the manual from TroyBilt. FWIW, and I quote: "You can use SAE 140 gear oil at all times unless you use your tiller in temperatures below 32F"...."Never use multi-viscosity gear oil, motor oil, or automotive transmission oil in your transmission"...
According to the manual, the tillers are shipped with 6 1/2 pints of SAE140 gear oil.
As for the GL4 vs GL5 debate, GL4 is recommended in the newer manuals for the transmissions. GL5 is specifically NOT recommended. AFAIK, GL4 does NOT have the sulfur additives alluded to by others (I worked in a transmission shop 20 years ago, and we used GL4 (recommended by the manufacturer) in manual transmissions that had brass synchros.
The SAE140 GL4 isn't really easy to find, but it's not that hard either.
I can scan the pages and send them to you if you would like. I ordered the manual from MTD- it was more than $10 but less than $20. Well worth it.
Good Luck
Ralph

Well, I got to spend some time on the tiller today dismantling and found out that the tines were wobbling because all the bolts holding the housing cover on were loose. Tightened them and now very litle movement. I also got the wheel off but it is no longer usable and will need another one. Is the wheel available by itself, if so where can I get one? Since I already bought a tire, the wheel is only needed. Took the tranny cover off and the gear oil looked okay, but I drained it anyway so I could inspect the gears. They looked good. So looks like all I need is a wheel, axle seals, tine seals, tranny cover gasket, tiller housing gasket, and rear bearing gasket. Then I should be ready to test it out. I know the engine runs because I started before doing anything. Did I mention that this tiller was sitting on the street for the garbage to pick up. I am glad I picked it up, looks like it may be a keeper after all.

Thanks for all the replys
Mike

You can order genuine factory parts direct from MTD and Troy-Bilt at http://www.mtdparts.com

The manual you are looking for should be at http://www.troybilt.com

Next time for a stuck part try soaking it in a good penetrating oil overnight. My favorite is Aero Kroil but it is hard to find at retail stores - you need to search online to find it. It is used in the airline industry a lot. Aero Kroil is amazing stuff and works sooo much better than anything else I have ever tried and it is not that expensive, just really hard to find it. As a last resort, carefully heating it with a map torch works too.
Take care...

Here is a link that might be useful: www.mtdparts.com

HELP please....
I have the older model, Horse PTO with the 8 horse Kohler engine.

It is in great shape, works well with one problem....
I have to physically hold down the Gear Engage lever to make it till, as If I let go, it does not stay fully engaged....this is areal pain as it means I have to till one handed... any insight would be great.

Here is a link that might be useful: My Website

You should be able to get straight 140 oil at Tractor Supply, or at any NAPA dealer.

* posted by justadad 71291 on
Thu, Sep 13, 07 at 10:27

HELP please....
I have the older model, Horse PTO with the 8 horse Kohler engine.

It is in great shape, works well with one problem....
I have to physically hold down the Gear Engage lever to make it till, as If I let go, it does not stay fully engaged....this is areal pain as it means I have to till one handed... any insight would be great.

Make sure drive belt is not too tight- also check if clutch pawl spring is overstretched- if it is, replace it.

I have an older troybilt horse . After looking at the gear case oil, I decided to change it. Now looking back, I probably shouldn't have drained it but that's neither here nor there. I have it in a clean container. Should I go back with it or look for some SAE140?

I have a couple of other questions. After draining, I poured in about 1 cup of GL5 gear oil to help clear out the existing oil, not knowing what damage GL5 can do per this thread. It's in the oil that I captured after draining. Any issues there?

Also, if I don't go back with 140 if I can't find it, all I see is 80-90 (and maybe 80-140) multivis synthetic. Any issues going back with that? What's the better way? Synthetic or conventional 140. Is the viscosity very important, even though it's synthetic?

What do you all recommend?

I'd recommend Royal Purple Max Gear 85W-140.

How long have you had Royal Purple in your Troy?

I found some genuine troy replacement oil but it's 11.50/qt. Looks like i need about 4 qts. I've been strongly considering switching to a synthetic because I want to use this tiller for the long haul and think synthetic would do it. Just want to make sure you haven't experienced any issues with it.

Thanks!

Probably 5+ years and I've had no issues with RP Max Gear.

I just scored an 1980 horse a customer had it out by the road and when asked what he was doing with it he said that if someone wanted to pick it up they could have it. Points and condenser fresh gas and it runs. I wanted to get it running before I changed the oil and check the other fluids the gear oil is low now I have this gl 5 sulfer thing to worry about, is synthetic oil sulfer free thus safe for the brass bushings? if not where did you find the troy built 140? synthetic is going to cost about the same. also my tiller forward reverse lever floats right up to reverse real easy, just from the engine vibration is that white block that the wheel rides on easily available to replace. one more thing on the older none pto horse it looks to me like you fill the transmission from the bolt that holds the handle on about 6 1/2 pints does this flow back to the tine gear box as well? looks like it does but just want to be sure. thanks for any help

85W-140 oil yes it flows back to tine gear housing. The engine going back to easy can be adjusted at top front of transmission housing there be spring that looks like valve spring in engine the engine rides on that spring tension in neutral is adjustable there taking this piece off tiller and cleaning and never_sieze parts is good to first sounds like yours is stuck down. Yes fill transmission at T-bolt hole. White block is adjustable one bolt in back this is to adjust belt tension a new block will not fix very worn belt are if spring missing on handle the knuckle and locks lever for forward. Keep your troy bilt out dew dry shed is place to store it has a lot cast iron that stick parts together.

There is a pin holdling the wheels on the horse.
For manuals, go to mtdparts.com, then at the lower left, click on manuals. Then put HORSE for model, and 1 for serial number. You should probably open each section as you need it, as the whole manual is very large.
Hope this helps.

TRANSMISSION OIL:
Not all synthetic oil are sulfur free. It appears that the Poyal Purple may be sulfur free (?), even tho it is rated for GL 5. I found some standard oil which is non-corrosive, though it contains Olefin Sulfide. It is Sta-Lube (CRC) HYPOID SAE 85W90, GL-4. It states that it is not corrosive to copper, bronze, or other non-ferrous alloy bearings and bushings. I would still like to find some 140w which is not rated for GL5.

How do you change the 2 drive belts on a 70's model Horse?
I have the belts but can't get them off of the pully.

Make sure the belt tension is adjusted before you change the belts. at the bottom of the forward and reverse lever you will see and small wheel that rides on an adjustment plate. On the front side of that adjustment slide is a 9/16" bolt. Loosen that bolt a bit and tap the adjustment slide down a bit, maybe a 1/8 inch. That should adjust the belt tension so you dont have to till with one hand while holding down the direction lever. Hope this helps.

I got a horse with a pto problem , it won't disengage ,the lever doesn't go all the way over. I took the tines apart from the transmission snd tried to make the lever move but it is stuck. I took a hammer and a metal pin , tapping on the dog clutch to loosen but it would not budge.Can anyone give me any help please.I have the owners manual and the parts manual but I can't find a service manual,does anybody know where to find one?serial #862518- kohler M8T

i am trying to get an old gardenway troybilt tiller up and running. having some problems. anyone out there to ask any questions of? alanby57@sbcglobal.net

I have a Horse, serial# 846887, believe its a Horse 111, 8hp eng.
I am looking for a factory bumper, is the part#11071 and where to find one?
I bought this used and abused and am looking to bring it back to top shape, one wheel pulls harder, would this most probably be axle or driveshaft problem?
Many thanks for any help.

I have an older horse, mine and all others I have seen have a solid axle. You may want to check tire pressure and if wheel is slipping on axle.

I would like to have a bumper for mine also. used parts are a little hard to find. You may be able to order a new one. I think mtd owns them now. Do a web search and see what you come up with.

Does anyone know the required engine torque for the troy bilt horse model 225473 Serial no. 6146C? I am looking at the Honda GX200 5.5 HP (9.1 ft/lbs at 2500 RPM) to replace the old Tecumseh 6 HP torque unknown? This engine is lighter than the Tecumseh. To match the weight I would need to go to the GX240 7 hp. The manual gives a ground speed of .5 mph at 3000 rpm. So I'm not sure if this engine will provide the needed torque to drive the tines?
Info about the transmission gear box: My manual states that 90 SAE or 140 SAE gear oil maybe be used in the transmission. Remove the oil plug located 3 inches above the left wheel, remove the "T" bar holding the handle bar and fill with oil through the hole on top of the handle bar base. Stop filling when the oil reaches the oil plug. Replace the oil plug and handle bar. The transmission holds 6 1/2 pints to lube the drive gears and tines.

Happy gardening to all.

The Greyhound way cheaper more torque than every need sold at Harbour Freight 6.5 hp cheap compared to others. Any 5.5 overhead valve engine have needed torque. You need to buy 5 bolts to mount Greyhound engine on Troy Bilt Tiller its because tread size length be same as older thread sizes are in manual comes with new engine metric. This engine Honda knockoff from china mind purchase in December 2008 no problem going use it today.

In link below one that talking about its replace troybilt horse engine.

Here is a link that might be useful: greyhound engine

I acquired an older troy bilt horse. I got the motor running, but now the tines wont turn. When I shift the tines/pto engage lever it feels loose like it's not engaging anything. I checked the owners manual and suggested that the lever might be out of adjustment. Is this a common occurrence on these older models?

I am about to begin to restore a very old horse model. This machine has a clinton engine. I found it about twenty years ago on a grown up lot where the original owner lived. I was able to get the engine running and I used it a small amount. For the past ten years it has been parked under my deck in the weather. I was told it was purchased in the sixties. I have a front bumper and a dozer blade for this unit. This machine has never been used very much and it has the original tines in very good condition

It spring time! Can't find the serial or model number on my Horse. It's a four speed. Engine is Tecumseh and on the iron engine block the numbers are HHM80, 190009, Ser3236D. I don't know what all those mean. It had an electric start at one time. Trying to find a few minor parts.

Anyone got help for a model number?

I inherited a Horse that I think my cousin bought in the 60's and the worm gear in the transmission assembly is shot as well as the gear on the shaft. It runs like a top! I can't find the parts at the Troybuilt website. It's a model# TH-1001 and has a 7hp Kohler. Any Idea if I can still get parts?

IHAVE AN OLD TROYBILT HORSE II. I have not been able to locate the model # on it the only number i can find is stamped on the right side near the back of the handle. it say 58 1058. pretty sure it is a horse II. ALSO found the numbers 25/81 assuming it is a 81 model. can some one tell me where else i might look for the model #/serial #?

Transmission case right side of top cover wire brush until number shows this over right wheel stamp numbers be full paint dirt grease rust use some solvent after a long wire brushing.

Horse have 4 model numbers I, II, III, IIII or 1, 2, 3, 4

serial number on right top transmission used for parts of tiller.

Engine Brand and numbers on engines used for engine parts

I am in need of a engine pulley for a Horse I sn#192326 2 speed with dual belts, 3/4" techemsuh shaft engine. Every place I contact they say it is no longer available. I have to get a used one. Anyone know of a place that deals in used troy bilt tiller parts? The old part catalog says the part number is 1007-1.

I have a Horse tiller. Serial # 808498 with the original Tecunseh Engine.
I need an owner's manual for the tiller & engine
my email address is igfun4us@aol.com
Hope someone can help
Thanks

I need a copy of 47026 parts book This chipper shredder is PTO MODEL I am willing to pay for it. thanks bill

call toll free 1-800-609-5110. Bill Rodgers. He's old troy bilt dealer in Va. he be there tomorrow work hours. Owner troy bilt site at yahoo groups it good thing join there.

Better Late than never, I just located another source of 140W GL1 gear oil that is used in the transmission for Troy Bilt Tillers. They have quarts, gallons and five gallon (35 lb) pails. There also have 55 gallon drums listed but am unsure of their stock status. I picked up a 5 gallon pail since I have multiple pieces of equipment that need this lube. From what I have found, they had the best price anywhere. Although the link is 'www.crazyoil.com'. They also go by the name of 'Bi-Lo Wholesale'.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bi-Lo Wholesale

FrankF
i just ordered 1 gal of 140 GL 1 from crazyoil. thanks

I just bought a old Troy bilt, I believe it is a horse. It has an 6.5 up Grayhound engine. I need to fix it to run better. It runs pretty good however as soon I lower it to till the engine starts to back fire and it will stop if I do not lift the tines out of ground. The markings that I found on the tiller are, TH1003, the serial # 00893 133 and also another number on the side of trans opposite to serial number 2109CT or GT and below 292P. Can anyone help me find what model it is.
Thank you

You need to remove oil check plug and fill full oil first it has low oil level switch on engine if tilt engine it cut off the idea is run a little over full mark and use third notch down on depth gauge you may go deeper after try that depth. I'd clean out float bowl in case water in there. Check gas cap to see if gasket good if not replace. The gasoline now pulls water out air moisture more than ever. About several number on horse its side top cover transmission housing not cover on right side top wire brush clean off so number show good.

I have an old tiller with no serial numbers except "Garden Way TH 1002 on the bottom front of the belt housing and Garden Way TH 1019 on the handle bar mount that bolts to the transmission with a T-bolt. It has a Tecumpseh motor also with no numbers. The tiller has 7" wheels and I have not been able to find another mention of 7" wheels on Troy-bilt tillers online. All replacements are 8". Anyone know of 7" wheels on Troy-bilts? It looks exactly like the one in the 1977 Horse Manuel except for the 7" wheels.

My Dad(rest his soul) bought his horse new in 1983 and it still runs great! My mother and I use that tiller every year without trouble. We don't use as much as we used to but I just drained the original SAE 140 out of it and it did not look bad at all to what I've seen in my own years. Now I'll have to find some, but I will put the GL1 or GL2 in from comments above so thanks! BTW...the book says to use straight 90 or 140. No multi-viscosity oils at all. The comment above about the Kohler engines is spot on. They are indestructible and run like clocks(with a few misses here and there...lol...gas these days stinks!) but it is still running strong with no issues. Wish they still made machinery like that. Too many bells and whistles now a days.