They are correct. A spec engine is NLA. The crankshaft and various other internal organs are NLA - but you can get a cylinder if you need one.... You can likely re-power still. Some of the online engine sales places such as Tulsa Engine warehouse would likely know what you need if the dealer can't figure it out.

I bought a dead pony in 93. It's an 1985 model and had a thrown rod. Lucky enough it didn't go through the block. I did replace the rod and gave it a gasket kit. Been running since although I did have to put another set of rings in it 2 years ago. I am trying to get the engine to out last the tiller.
There is an engine that can be used as a replacement. I can't remember if it needs spacers and/or different belts.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tulsa small engine

Can't help you with locating a replacement engine - but have you checked craigslist for another tiller? I realize it's a lucky find, but for the same cost of the above-linked replacement engine ($300), I recently bought a 1993 Pony with just a few hours on it.

Sounds like the old lady from Pasadena story, but it actually was owned by an elderly lady since new - used it only one hour a year on her small garden and still had it serviced annually by the dealer.

Runs and still looks like new . . .

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You can't get them to rebuild it for you? Or did you just want a complete bolt-on replacement engine to mount yourself? You could pull the engine off yourself and have someone rebuild it, probably for less than a complete engine would cost.

Pretty slick archdiver. That looks nice enough to put a lampshade on it and park it next to the sofa! And electric start to boot...

Wanted to do that tom - but the wife said no!
Women - they just don't understand our allure for cool machinery.

Just read a great article about rebuilding an old Troy-Bilt tiller. This article helped me figure out how to do it and gave some good advice on where to get all of the stuff you need. I am not a mechanic, but had a blast doing the project. Time to till under for the fall and be ready for next year.

Here is a link that might be useful: Backwoods Living Article

watersville, At least pull the head or side cover if needed and let us see the internal damage. What are the symptoms that are dictating internal damage? As mentioned all internal damages are not major. If you drain the oil and it's full of metal, or you see a dent/crack or hole in the case, or you hear a int knock, "you might have a problem". Otherwise, it could be a bad valve, head gasket or etc. I hate to see mechanics or anyone condemn an engine w/o some visible proof. Which means some work in many cases. A tear-down fee which I doubt the average mechanic care to deal with. BUT! That is when you evaluate the motor's history (smoking, burning oil, knocking) but jump into action and verify there is "Real Internal Damage" beyond a reasonable repair. Pulling the head appears to be the most reasonable to pull which could reveal a lot. Go For It! loger