I would further suggest to check plug colour , but with two units not have been run for a while and both starving (apparently) for fuel the plug colour would not be conclusive. It may be a Defective Ignition Module but for both to have Ignition boxs go south at the same time is rather coincidental lol . I guess if you get a used one you can verify. Strange that the unit continues to die with carb spray directly within the carb throat . Points to poor spark (intermittently) anyways . Keep us posted Bro !

I am having the same problem. I replaced the fuel tank with a new kit and rebuilt the carb.

I decided to take the carb apart and soak it in carb cleaner. Perhaps that will fix it.

Veeg

Correction. I have a PB-200 blower

I have the same problem on my PB-200 Echo blower. I have changed the fuel tank filter. grommet, primer tube and fuel tube. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb and installed a new spark plug. I put in non ethanol fuel and I still do not have 100% performance. I think the high speed jet may be the problem but I am not sure.

Can any one tell me how the fuel primer works?

I will let everyone know if I ever get this blower to run properly.

Veeg

I believe it was a PB-200 Echo blower that appeared to have no quality or compression. It would start like it had compression release since it was below 100 psi but would run. Others felt the compression and refused to touch the blower. I like to see why a problem is a problem. I saw no reason for the low compression and failure to run after it initially ran after all the usual cks and services.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

Since it was a free favor and I felt it was Low End vs Quality due to the low compression. I refused to look at the blower again after it ran good for a month with what I consider low compression. The piston’s skirt did have slight scores below the ring’s travel that polished off. I could only assume compression was an issue vs seeing why. I’m Too Old To See Everything. LOL And Good Luck!

Is it a Low End 129.00 or lower type?

Had the same problem. Had me stumped until I found a tiny hole in the fuel line inside the tank. Replaced the hose and the grommet assembly for about $16 and it runs like brand new. Got lucky and noticed the small hole as I was pulling the line out to change the gas filter. It was almost unnoticeable. Hope this helps.

Burzawa,

I gave up and bought a new carb from ebay for $35 and I am up and running again. Thanks for your info. I had already installed a tank and carb kit but the carb still would not work.

Okay, gentlemen I have a similar but different problem with my PB650. It runs great for 20 minutes or so then starts to slow down or bog. I can nourish it along with the throttle but in a minute or so it will slow more and stop. So I wait a minute and then prime it and start it and it runs fine for a minute then bogs worse then stalls. Then I put it away and start over the next day and it does the same routine all over again... runs fine for 20 +/- minutes then bogs all over again. I am pretty it is a fuel supply problem but it seems to be heat related. I'm not sure where to start but I think I'll replace the fuel lines and primer. This blower is about 4 years old but does not get used very much.

Please post a link to the
Carb’s Diagram. From my experience,
using Ethanol Fuel W/O Stabil or other Additive the rubber seats will
swell. When my mower ran approx 10
minutes it would stop as if it was out of gas.
Due to the needle’s seat swelling “OR Swelled”, cutting off the
fuel. A new rubber seat and treated fuel
solved the problem.

Have you used treated fuel only
in the engine??? Is rubber on the needle
or seat??

I have not had this carb apart so I don't know if the needle or seat are rubber. I have never used treated fuel except in my motor home during the winter. My lawn equipment gets ethanol mix and fuel remains in the equipment I use weekly. If something quits running I replace the diaphram or fuel pump valve. Off season I empty all fuel and run till it stops. I guess my logic is that if it is a bad part it seems it should stay that way and not work at all as long as fuel remains in it. I'll look to see if I can find a carb diagram. I think I have an unusual problem and I guess I'll have to abandon my logic and start throwing parts at it.

I have a 25 year old pb400e which had decent compression, not great but ran well. Then started to slowly surge when hot, but ran well cold. I checked all lines, filter ,carb an all other logical fixes with no luck. Two strokes are funny animals as they draw intake into the crankcase on the downstroke push it through the transfer port to the top, this intake process is reliant on a good fitting piston and quality rings or the engine will refuse to draw fuel, run inconsistently or be totally unreactive to the high mixture screw. The piston is cast aluminum and the bore is hard chrome coated so the issues will be seen on the piston. I noticed some scuffing on the pistons sides and bottom so I bought a piston and ring set off Ebay. Runs like an animal now, all problems gone!!!

I had this same problem, and as aircraft mechanic and inspector, trust me, I found the problem that many of you are having. On the original unit, Echo put a small red plastic stop on the high speed mixture adjustment. Remove that with a screwdriver or pliers carefully not to damage the carburetor by prying on the housing. Under that plastic is the metal adjustment screw with imagine that, a straight blade slot in it. Throw the plastic one in the garbage. Start the blower and let it warm up and slowly back the mixture screw out until it runs better, keep it slightly on the rich side of peak and now you have a blower you can use again that doesn't frustrate you into throwing in the garbage. ;)

There is another possibility or probability with these machines, check this before you put a piston and ring in the thing. There is an impulse line running from the carb to the crankcase, this line pushes the carb diaphragm back and forth. (piston action creates alternating crankcase pressure and vacuum). This back and forth motion on the carb diaphragm acts as a fuel pump of sorts, allowing it to pull gas to start and remain running smoothly without gas starvation. Sometimes if the hose is old it gets soft when the machine gets hot, allowing the hose to stretch on the crankcase side and create a poor seal, this will cause slow surging at high speeds when the machine gets hot. Replace it with a quality hose that does not stretch or collapse when heated. There also may be a hole in your hose causing poor high speed operation at any temperature......

Well I had low RPM problems. 58 months old so still warranted. Home Depot replaced the carb and the muffler. Did not help. I took it back and removed the muffler and looked into the cyl exhaust port and found it blocked off at least 80%.

cleaned it out and it ran like new. This is caused by ethanol so should be first thing to look for before any thing else. Any blockage of the exhaust will cause loss of RPM.

Me again. Any small engine will have this problem because of Ethanol.

djy

I own an Echo PB-201 for over 10 years and it's now has issues. If I can get it started, after it has cooled over night. I can idle the engine with the choke on, but if I raise the rpm I have to open the choke a little, still need it on in order for it to run(at high rpm). After I have it running for a few minutes, I can open the choke more. What happens after the blower warms up and at high rpm the engine will bog down and dies. Now, it's harder to start now after it has warm up. With all that said, I can get it to run when the engine is warming up, but when it's hot, it will die. I have replaced fuel lines, fuel filter, fuel,spark plug, air filter and carburetor (bought a new carb). It seems like it's starving for a rich fuel mixture at high rpm. I've been think about a bad leaking intake gasket. Want will a leaking intake gasket cause?? It seems like it's taking fuel into the combustion chamber okay. S.O.S

OPPS FORGOT TO ADD, I'D CHECK SPARK ARRESTOR AND IT'S CLEAN.

djy , leaking intake gasket will cause high idle issue (more than is normal) Also will cause hesitation under load due to an over lean condition which long term can cause overheating . I would suggest that your ignition module may be going south since you advise of new carb has been installed which rules out fuel restriction issues . P.S. check the spark plug colouration a light brown or tan may indicate a lean fuel condition . Medium brown after prolonged use is normal. Again hard starting when warm and stalling after extended use normally lends to a faulty module , once it cools saw will start and then repeat once saw heats back up.

et us know how it goes...E !

Check as I said before. You won't believe it.

leo , originator advised that muffler is clean therefore exhaust port would most likely be unrestricted also . Ethanol will cause oxidation and fouling of carb circuits but unless unserviced carbonization of the piston and exhaust ports is very remote. The plugging of exhaust ports normally caused by excessive fuel mixture . Long term carbon build up on piston and head will cause overheating far before any significant rpm loss is noticeable ....aka Ewalk .

Well I cleaned the inside of the exhaust port and it runs like new.

Well it seems strange that the exhaust port was 80 percent clogged after less than 5 yrs. If the unit was 15 to 20 yrs old I could see the alcohol solvency acting like a solvent and removing accumulative carbon from within the internal combustion surfaces of the small engine . However ethanol is much less likely to contribute to carbon build up in a relatively new engine than excessive oil ratio or poor class of oil . What ratio are you currently running and which brand ? ...aka Ewalk .

Proper 50/1 and buy oil made for small 2 cycle engines only. My grandson is a small engine repair mech and said what I found was not unusual. So don't look, but that was our problem and found same on other blower, not mine. Still running like new. The exhaust was good and the screen was clear.

Leo , Don't want you to get all pissy on us (So don.t look) any Home Depo Tech your Grandson included would check the muffler 1st for restriction of carbon or oil since that is where it will collect within or on the screen . Yes and if excessive then cleaning of the exhaust port , piston dome , rings and head is normal procedure . As for Carbon fouling being a symptom of Ethanol fuel your out to lunch . Raced Alcohol Fueled Racing equipment back in the day and Alcohol is the coolest and cleanest running fuel available (does not contribute to Carbon deposits) . The only down side is it's corrosive liabilities , especially within small engine fuel circuits since it will attract moisture. It also will soften older fuel lines and gaskets not designed for ethanol use . As for 50:1 oil to fuel ratio this would be optimium for these model and Manufacturer. As for any form of 2 cycle oil for small engine , this is less than optimium since older dino oils will produce excessive carbon fouling issues that require periodic cleaning . I always recommend only Premium Synthetic 2-stroke oil along with fuel conditioner usage currently . Anyhow take it from a small engine backyard mechanic for over 30 yrs the problems with the previous Blowers identified within this Thread had nothing to do with excessive carbon fouling issues lol . All Muffler Screens were identified as clean by their originator if you had read carefuly. . Majority of the issues were and still are most likely today fuel starvation and or air entrainment along with potential ignition module issues on these various 2-stroke small engine units ...All the Best aka Ewalk !

Still by cleaning out the exhaust port it ran like new. Enough said.

Yes I believe you in your isolated example . However the gest of the Thread and this Forum is assist Originators with sound advice to assist within their various concerns. Making false and uneducated Blanket Statements such as Ethanol fuel is the cause of Carbon fouling is less than Proactive . I think you had better read up further on Ethanol fuel attributes and liabilities prior to posting !

This is the Real Ewalk! “His Knees And Challenges”! Welcome Back!

Roflmbo Loger ! I don't bite in the Clinchs Though Thanks Bro ! lol . It gets my Irish up when contributors such as Leo can,t or will not take the time to read the originators posts thoroughly. He (Baymee) stated that he had checked the exhaust port / muffler . To post more than once that Ethanol based fuel causes excessive carbon deposits is absurb . Anyone with minimium small engine experience understands the downside of this less than optimium fuel for small engines. However with a little common knowledge and preventative maintenance Ethanol poses no long term threats. Back in the day when 16:1 Oil to Fuel Ratios where the norm due to inferior Mineral Oils , decarbonizing of the small two stroke engine was routine preventative measure . As you know I raced Snowmobiles and Dirt Bikes competitively back in the 70 's lots of wrenching experience lol . Anyhow seems like a lot less experienced folk here since I left 3 yrs ago . We need more Yungman and Tom plum and Canaguy type members to teach these newbies lol . Take care Loger try to stay out of that Texas Sun ...Ewalk !

I have promised to Pass when
I do not have direct experiences and facts. Or!
I’m learning to pass if I’m seeing a lack of some Efforts, Experiences, Research,
and Manuals info and used on the Poster’s issues. Many issues have been solved and are “Non
Issues” with a little research if you have not experienced the matter. Take
Care!

Amen Bro ! Off to another Thread , think we have flogged a Dead Dog enough here ......E !

sstracker1

djy,

I've purchase a new ignition coil and the Echo PB-201 is working like a champ. So to summarize I'd bought a new carb gasket set,which didn't help, new carb, new spark plug, new gas filter, fuel line, air filter and finally a new ignition coil. This all started when the engine bogs down and dies. It was a challenge. Thanks for everyone's input.

djy , Thanks for getting back to us with your final resolve. Don't fret the xtra parts other than the carb , they will serve your unit well and which eventually would required replacement any way . You are now ready to trouble shoot further small engine issues with the knowledge you have now gained lol .

To Me the answer for all of the above was chenge all of the hoses I own a echo pb-201 by this kit on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-ECHO-FUEL-SYSTEM-KIT-90098-FITS-PB200-201-ES210-211-BLOWERS-VACS-/152080067057?hash=item2368ada9f1:g:gt8AAOxyCSRSHPHn

Hi Dave. I had the same problem as davep10000:

davep10000 wrote:

"Okay, gentlemen I have a similar but different problem with my PB650. It runs great for 20 minutes or so then starts to slow down or bog. I can nourish it along with the throttle but in a minute or so it will slow more and stop. So I wait a minute and then prime it and start it and it runs fine for a minute then bogs worse then stalls. Then I put it away and start over the next day and it does the same routine all over again... runs fine for 20 +/- minutes then bogs all over again. I am pretty it is a fuel supply problem but it seems to be heat related. I'm not sure where to start but I think I'll replace the fuel lines and primer. This blower is about 4 years old but does not get used very much."

--------------------------------

Did you ever get this figured out? I cleaned out the carb and replaced gaskets, new fuel line, fuel and air filters, checked muffler, checked plug. It runs perfect for about half my lawn and then bogs out and dies. I also figured it was heat related. I have to decide whether to throw parts at it has you said or buy a new one.

Keven

Kevin , if you have read all above posters contributions , you will see that there are more than one possible cause. I would conclude that if half your lawn is approx. 20 minutes , then most likely you have a coil (Ignition Module) going South . Not cheap but if your compression is good then it would be a prudent investment . P.S. In future its better to start your own thread to reduce clutter :)

I own a Echo PB-770H. I'm having a similar issue to most of these posts. High speed idle only goes so High while I play with the choke and I try to maintain a steady run while making very minimal changes with the choke lever. I noticed that once I have as good of a steady run that I'm going to get, I place my blower hose against something to restrict the flow of air leaving. What happens when I restrict the air hose was the machine revved up to its normal High speed run and I was able to cut back on the choke a bit more. As soon as I unrestrict the air flow, the blower bogs back down and I must play with the choke a bit more to maintain steady run.

Davep10000 I have the exact same problem with my PB-650 as you. Runs great 20 min then revs starts going up and down. Put it at mid throttle smooths out . Only used twice a year since new. Did you ever isolate the problem with yours.

I had similar problem except no up and down, just down. I replaced the ignition module and it works great now.

Hey Kevin Thanks for getting back to us I knew from the symtoms your issue was the Module

I am working on an Echo PB-250LN. Owner took original blower back to Homedepot and was given replacement. Took that one back for the same reason - no power. Starts and runs great, but barely revs above an idle. Homedepot says the 1 year warranty was from the date of purchase of the original blower. This blower is about 3 years old but has not been used.

Started in fuel system. Some water in the gas tank. Some guck in the carb, but nothing so far made much difference. Blew out lines, filter but nothing.

Yes, when you restrict air flow from blower, it revs fine, but it really doesn't have any power because it slows right down when you release the airflow. Tried spraying starter fluid and paying with the choke but no improvement

I too don't give up. I have lots of experience with 2 and 4 cycle engines and they will run great in neutral, but can't make it up hills. Weak spark under load.

Decided fuel was not the problem as I initially thought. I went to the other side, electrical. Found the wire to the kill switch was pinched where it went through the metal shroud. Also the clear insulator on this wire at the coil looked burnt. Also found a build up of metal chips in the holes where the bolts secure the coil in place so one side was about .010 from the flywheel and the other was about .060. These chips were magnetic and probably there since original assembly. Corrected these, set magneto gap at .005, and reassembled.

Guess what. Big improvement. But still think it starves a little at top end. Will run some gas with cleaner in the oil.

I have pictures and chips as evidence.

I'm retired and do this for fun. No one can do this for living. Product of our "throw away and replace" mentality

To all responders - all great info. I have tried for weeks to get my Echo 260 blower to rev up. Replaced carb, filter, plug, and all lines - no help. Took the exhaust cap off to inspect but no blockage. Was just about to give up when I decided to pull the entire exhaust assembly off and guess what? Yep - the exhaust outlet at the cylinder was blocked from ethanol buildup. I carefully chipped all of the buildup out and reassembled and voila - full speed ahead. This is a older blower - probably 6 -8 years old and I have learned my lesson about gas with ethanol. Either treat gas every 6 months or so or find a station that sells gas without ethanol. I run echo blowers and trimmers and this was a very valuable lesson. Good luck. Ed

You need to rebuild the carb. I can tell you have been using fuel from a station that has alcohol in it. Alcohol degrades all the carb parts. Use Echo or other fuels that have no alcohol and your blower will run better for much longer. Once again, fuel with alcohol in It destroys your carb.

Actually it causes problems with the gasket. I went to the trouble of tracking down the manufacturer and related documentation of my stihl carbs and it turns out it is in writing that the alchohol does not affect the plastic valving, so that explains why you can buy alcohol in plastic containers at the drugstore if you are not believing me, but the little cutout gaskets are made of a pressed and glued paper like cardboard that will suffer airleaks related to your alcohol fuel. You could make better ones using the new gaskets as a template.

The manufacturer even states not to run fuels with alcohol. They destroy all the internals of your carb. Go to your nearest warranty station and they will tell you the same thing. Not all plastics are the same and comparing a plastic container that holds alcohol to micro thin parts is a non sequitur. If you want your Echo to last ditch the alcohol containing fuels.

i've been using ethanol gas for a long time. for my 2 strokes, i don't mix more fuel than i can use within a reasonable time, don't let it sit. when i had a little lawn service business, i could mix a gal at a time without it going bad. since i've cut back on customers i can get by mixing only what i'll use. when i'm mixing small amounts i mix 8oz gas to 1 tsp oil. i buy and sell a lot of "broken" lawn equipment, more often than not the problem is fuel related. gummed up carbs, deteriorated lines. usually because the owner stored the machine with fuel in it. the gas you bye in cans (premix) is fail safe but expensive. if you like to store fuel, google "pure fuel" or ethanol free fuel in my area, there might be stations still selling real gas. there are people that swear by fuel stabilizers but i don't use them.

I also had trouble with my Echo PB250-LN not revving up to speed . After reading all , and a new carburetor kit from Amazon , I tried as "Leobabin" wrote . My Spark Arrestor screen was almost totally blocked . The exhaust port was 75% blocked . I cleaned all and now it runs like new . Thank you Leobabin . Also want to mention , The "Tune-Up" kit from Hone Depot is $17.97 and the carburetor kit from Amazon is $15.37 . Go figure

The tune up kit is the way to go . The cause of exhaust clogging is improper oil mixture or inferior oil usage . Echo,s must run only full synthetic Echo Power-Blend or other Premium Grade oil @ 50:1 to prevent carbon build up on their high compression air cooled engines . Echo has Bulletins out on warranty exceptions due to improper oil and mixture ratio,s. Even with Echo Red Armour conventional oil , spark arrestor screen and exhaust port cleaning is annually ! P.S. Ethanol fuel users must also ensure fresh fuel and conditioner to protect fuel system components !

I see a lot of comments saying "ethenol buildup" when it comes to blocked exhaust ports and/or spark arrest screens. Those are incorrect and false statements. It is "Carbon Buildup" and it is caused from unburnt fuel mix being sent out through the exhaust. Mostly from one of two reasons. Either the mix is too rich with oil or the operator is not running the machine as it's supposed to be ran. 2 strokes crave 3/4 to wide open throttle. If they're ran at less than that carbon buildup happens.

remove carb and verify pulse hole in manifold gasket and carb are lining up . otherwise no pulse to fuel pump ie fuel starvation

The bottom line is to ensure clean & fresh fuel . Use of ethanol fuels will require fuel conditioner additives to protect the fuel and your carburetor !