Following up:

I noticed the need of the rear round ears to pivot the grate âÂÂsemi upâ to clean under it. I have also noticed sitting the grate off to one side with coal on it (using the poker) gives good access. The lift is not bad with the heaver Cat Walk Doubled Great but the 8-10 lbs + will have to be tested due to the dept leverage. LOL! That means adding rear ears and cutting excess angle on the front to move this post down the list "At Least".

Have A Good Restful Winter!

An Update:

Handy
Folks!

A Good Morning To Up-Grade My No End 24/7
Fireplace Grate Matters. The challenge is I have burned many
Grates due to 24/7 burning since 1978. After years of
building/burning standard grates. I went to 2 Stainless 2” Dia
pipes just above the floor (as “Dog Irons”) opened to the opposite side of the
Once Double sided Fireplace (with a steel back to one side now).

The new challenge is to hold coal overnight
but remove ash for the New Day. Taking some of the mixture and
leaving some worked but I felt I could do better. Better was the
idea of a grate that would let the ash fall lower than the coals and pivot the
grate up to shovel out the ash. That worked but my non-stainless
expanded metal was giving me 1-2 years. I went to Cat-Walk
Material allowing less coal to fall.

The steel vs stainless Grate was still about
a two yr cycle. Today I designed the grate with the Cat-Walk to be
bolted vs welding to the main structure. The center is basically
what burns to be replaced. Last, I added ears to pivot the Grate
up holding coals while I shovel ash from below the grate and coals.
The rear pivot ears can be adjusted and fires just showed to be lowered
2-3”above the floor (vs my original mistake of straight ears as the
front. Lowering the Grate between the bottom/top Stainless tubes
will support coals and 10” dia wood.

What’s Next For This Good Heat Fun
Project!!! No Blowers, “Again”, heat in basic sized living areas
will find you on moderate days (cold nights/mornings/days vs
freezing).

Good fun and exercise if you have a good source of
wood!

Learning, Challenging, Forgetting, Red Oak and Grate’s
Changes and Needs to hold coals overnight!!!

1. I have had Red Oak seasoned a year that w/n burn with small
seasoned cracks and ends gray in color.

2. Some larger Red Oak shows cracks “As Seasoned” when it is
cut green, graying comes with age.

3. Lowering my grate more 2” from floor front to back on
ears will allow less air and combustion.

4. I’ll close intake air ducked in from the roof 50% since
the damper is closed to the max by design.

5. To burn the Red Oak that w/n burn in the past, “I feel the
raised grate created a furnace”, IMO!!!

Please share your opinions as I try to balance this matter.

6. I’m burning 6 week old “Green
Red Oak today, green bark, no seasoned cracks mixed with seasoned Live Oak/pecan.

With the last two weeks of 60
– 70 Degree weather in NorthTX I broke my burning 24/7
mode. Today I checked my Chimney for Etc
since I have experimented with putting a 6-8” dia short stick of green Red Oak
in my last fire (built–up for the night).
I’m trying to hold some coals to start the next fire). I did not see any differences from burning
all seasoned wood.

I was told recently that
creosote would not attach to stainless steel.
If this is true I believe this is why I have not ever seen what I
thought was creosote in this 14” ID, 16” OD pipe, filled with asbestos (vs
Soot). BUT!!! Using a magnet I just learned the Firebox is
stainless but the pipe starting 3-4’ up in the Firebox is not stainless. That was a little disappointing to learn
since the late 70s. I’ll have to look at
the specs that I had not physically checked.
Most of all the pipe’s conditions look good.

Sweeping the soot off the 60”
(2x30” sections) of pipe is usually an every 2 yr event. We should get a drop in temp soon and I’ll go
into a clean-up mode. Burning all old
wood before any seasoned. Such as, I
found some once prime Red Oak solid from 2012 (under the tarp that I cut in
half as I burn) and starter wood that I need to burn.