MTD blowing fuses

16 years ago

I have a 2002 MTD model 607 I recently purchased from craig list. Bought a new battery and every time I hook it up I blow the fuse under the hood. I then unplugged the whole starting switch and the fuse didn't blow until I hooked it back up(key is always in the off position). Next I unhooked every connection that I could find ie: lights, stater, control panel, rear axle, fuel bowl... Then plugged in ignition switch(off position) and fuse didn't blow; starting plugging everything back together one at a time. I can get everything plugged in without the fuse blowing until I get to the amp meter in the control panel. Everytime I plugg in the amp meter, with or without anything other divice plugged in, it plows the fuse. Note, with everything plugged in except the amp meter, nothing on the mower works! no lights no starter no noises. I am new to this riding lawn mower experience and I'm looking for advice. Do I have a bad ignition switch that puts power to the amp meter with the key in the off position? Should there be power to the amp meter in the off position? Is my amp meter messed up? If you have any suggestions let me know. Thanks!

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Comments (8)

mownie
16 years ago
Is there any chance you are connecting the battery backward??
Most batteries are offered in 2 "styles". The 2 styles are as follows:
Positive post on left, or positive post on right.
The Positive post is marked + and the cable that connects to it is usually red and runs to the starter solenoid.
The Negative post is marked - and the cable that coonects to it is black and will connect to the tractor frame or maybe to the engine.
If you are connecting the battery backward, the fuse will blow............and you may already have damaged the charging system.
There should be battery voltage present at both terminals of the ammeter......key on or off! The ignition switch IS NOT putting power TO the Ammeter anyway. The battery power goes through the ammeter before it reaches the key switch.
Make sure you are putting the battery in correctly and if that is not the problem, post back.
manion
Original Author
16 years ago
That is not the problem. I do not have the battery hooked up backwards. I did find a black wire that was taped by the starter but no place for it to hook up. There was also a yellow wire that had a white round plug on it that also didn't have a place to hook up, it was located near the starter.
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mownie
16 years ago
OK, let's concentrate on the ammeter. Does this ammeter mount in a metal panel? or is the dash plastic?
If the dash is metal, it is possible that the ammeter is shorting to ground internally, but don't rush out and buy another ammeter yet, there are some tests to do first.
Do you own a multimeter (that will test volts, ohms, and continuity)?
If not, you need to buy one before doing any testing.
This may take several posts to get to the root of the problem.
If the ammeter mounts in a metal panel, set the multimeter to Ohms or to "continutity" if you have that feature on your meter. This test applies ONLY if the ammeter mounts in metal. If dash is plastic, skip this test.
Unplug the wires from the ammeter.
Place one of the test meter leads on one wire post of the ammeter and the other test meter lead on a clean, bare metal part of the tractor. You should read "infinity" if using an Ohmeter, or "no continuity" if using continuity setting.
Test both of the posts on the ammeter and they should both show infinity or no continuity.
If either post of the ammeter shows continuity to ground, the ammeter is shorted internally and needs replacing.
Get back with some test results.
Alternatively, you can test for a shorted ammeter by connecting together the 2 wires that attach to the ammeter.
If you connect the 2 ammeter wires together and the fuse does not blow, you have proved the ammeter to be shorted.
manion
Original Author
16 years ago
I have not tesed the ammeter to see if it grounded out but I did test to see if both posts had any resistance and they do not, yes it mounts to metel. I also tried by passing the ammeter and it still blew the fuse as soon as I plugged in the ignition switch. I just went out an bought another switch, it is a craftsman brand but has same hook ups. I'll make sure the switch controls each wire the same as my old switch.
mownie
16 years ago
OK, I'll be out of reach for most of the day. I'll check in this evening to see what you have to say. Good luck.
manion
Original Author
16 years ago
Sorry the ammeter is mounted in plastic. how can I see on the switch which post gets turned on at each key turn?
manion
Original Author
16 years ago
Well good news! The black wire that was all taped up was actually a ground that completed the circit for everything to work. Engine fired up and everything works great! Thanks for the help, the battery bit about positive and negative was pretty weak, but I really enjoyed talking to someone that knows a lot about this mower, THANKS! Time to do all basic maintenace.
mownie
16 years ago
***"the battery bit about positive and negative was pretty weak"***
Not as "weak" as you might think.
You would be surprised to learn how many times a person has bought, or "been sold", a battery with the poles of the battery configured opposite to what they took out of the machine. Then, they hook it up based solely on which post is closest to the cables. It is very easy to do considering that L&G batteries do not have posts of different diameter as do some cars. L&G batteries using 1/4" or 6mm bolts offer no problems in connecting the cables in reverse polarity.
I wasn't grasping at straws, I was speaking from seeing it in the past with my own eyes. :^)