I'm sure you tried plugging it in another outlet, so
now I would take the plug off the end of the cord
and see if something is wrong there. I doubt the
motor was harmed.

{{gwi:322403}}Yes, I have other outlets nearby.

The machine has power between the switch/built-in-breaker and the motor.

I checked it with a line tester (the light bulb goes on){{gwi:322405}}

After reading your posts several times, I think that you need to go one step further.

By the sounds of things, you have determined that there is no interuption of power from the wall receptacle to the other side of the switch/overload combo.

Therefore, you know that you have power heading toward the motor itself.

So, did this falling board hit the motor? If it struck the motor start capacitor housing and crushed it, then that must be replaced.

In any event, you do have a cord running from the control switch to the motor. If the board hit this and damage it, then power may be interupted before reaching the motor. Why not remove the inspection plate on the end bell of the motor? Make sure that all three wires are attached. Then apply power by turning on the control switch. Put your tester across the black and white leads inside the motor's junction box to see if you have 120 VAC there. If you don't then the cord leading to the motor is suspect. Turn off the power and inspect it closely.

Whatever happened at your broken wall outlet (short circuit or otherwise) won't have any effect on the actual motor. To me, the issue is the falling plank and what it actually contacted and damaged in it's travels.

Check it out and let us know what you found.

The falling plank only hit the power cord outside the machine. Inside the machine (past the switch/breaker) the cable is clamped. Should be no damage.

OK, I'll take the motor out and put the tester on it.

Thanks!

Does the motor have a reset button?

Yes, it has a reset button (I updated the pic).

The machine has power past the on/off switch and past the reset button.

By the way, I called the Delta fact. authorized service center. They can't get parts for it, so they won't look at it. If I can't get it running, I will have to get another saw - certainly won't be a Delta.

I cut the plug off, replaced with a $3.00 plug from HD, and now all is well.

Thanks!

Glad you got it fixed. I understand parts not available for motor, but what about total motor replacement? Was your saw belt driven? A lot of belt driven saws may need a motor upgrade eventually. REJ2.

??? How were you measuring volts if the plug was bad? Isn't that where it all begins?

I'm confused too.

Does the electric motor have a plug too?

If he was measuring voltage with a digital meter, he may have been measuring "phantom voltage". High impedance meters tend to do this. A hot wire next to a dead wire can create capacitive coupling and create voltage in the dead wire. The current would be a couple of microamps though.

That is why I like to measure voltage with an old Simpson 260 at 10,000 ohms per volt. The meter loads down the circuit a bit and you will measure zero.

That is my guess.

Actually, he used one of those neon voltage testers. Look at the photos he posted.

rej2 - yes the saw has a toothed belt. I'm aware that the motor may fail at some point, actually, if the belt fails I'm probably screwed. Cross that bridge ... Right now it is running for $3.00

{{gwi:322405}}Yes, I am confused also, about the line tester. The "light-on" was indicating (enough) power to the motor, but that was obviously not true. Anybody know what these line testers are good for, and what they are not good for?

The plug that I changed is what goes into the 110 wall outlet. All the connections in the saw have wire nuts and clamps.

A neon tester (I believe) does NOT need high current to light up the lamp as the gas glows and there is no filament. My theory may still hold. If he used an incandescent bulb (Christmas light) with a filament, it would not light when testing "phantom" voltages. If it did light, then there was voltage AND current proving a live circuit.

I seem to recall static electricity can light up a neon bulb. Static electricity has almost zero current else it would kill you.

Neon will also light in the presence of RF energy.

Olivia , I hope your receiving frequent flyer milage lady lmao !