Possibly, depending on a few variables. Another, "safer" possibility is to pump out of a storage tank supplied by an existing line. Post back with the make, model, and impeller size (or trim code) of the pump. Also, the size and sustainable flow, at open discharge, of the water line.

DP.

Irri guy is correct the best thing to do is to pump out of a storage tank. And yes there are alot of variables when selecting pump size for a particular application. Unless you understand pump curve it is tough unless you use trail and error. If you send the pump specs I sure Irri guy or myself can help a little more.

Scott

well, no telling on finding info on it...
it's a craftsman 1.5hp I 'found' which means it was sitting in a barn I tore down, most of the info on it is wore off.

I just figured since it works I'd like to find a use for it... my nursery already has a 3hp pump running the irrigation, so running a 1.5hp with tanked water is kinda pointless.
Might just give the old thing away or just save it for emergencies.
hmm... prolly should have used it during one of the last three hurricanse that hit here, might have been able to aid in the 'drainage
*laugh*

dp

I'm making a couple of guesses here. One is that the pump is a single stage and therefore a low to moderate pressure booster. If so, it is apt to be intended for a larger flow than needed for your in-line boosting. Again, those are guesses. If either is wrong it might be worth pursuing some more.

You could develop a pump curve experimentally, if you want to fool with it. Someone else asked about doing that in the linked thread. As a broad rule, the suction should neck up at least one size, preferably two, from the pump inlet size. Of course, there should be adequate flow to go with that size.

If you hear a noise like pea gravel or something is going through the pump, that is cavitation. It is actually water vapor bubbles forming and collapsing and will damage the pump. Cavitation indicates excess output flow or too low a net incoming pressure causing a partial vacuum. Reduce flow/increase backpressure if that is the problem.

It is wise to protect a pump from being starved for water if there is any chance of that. That is a major reason to use a tank for source water. It is easier to see and to control. It's easy to include a "pump down" float switch in the control circuit of the booster.

It is also possible to monitor flow with an in-line pump, though a little trickier. One way is to use a flow switch in the line, again in series in the pump control. Sometimes the booster is needed to start the flow and close the switch. That means a bypass timer (an "interval" time delay relay set for a few seconds) must be put in parallel to the flow switch.

Nowadays, there are electronic devices that monitor motor electric current and have built in delays and so forth. They perform the same job without that other hardware.

Here is a link that might be useful: pump flow test, @ post 11