Is it new or used? Sounds like you may have flooded it, they are easily over primed. Open the choke and pull until it fires.

Yes it could be flooding but if it continues and it is a used machine with possibly old gas in tank, pull the sediment bowl from below carb (carefully so as not to knock around the stuff inside-float etc.). If dirt particles, water etc. in that bowl, it can cause thge float to malfunction and allow too much fuel to flow into bowl-has nowhere else to go but found its way out of gas area etc. You can try draining it by the screw in the bottom of bowl but doesn't always work so carefully take it off and clean it properly.

One tip for cleaning it occasionally-Isopryl Alcohol. Drain tank and put a few ounces of rubbing alcohol in tank and pull over a few times. Iso will be sucked into fuel line and through carb. Fill with fresh fuel and try again.

Do not use Methyl Hydrate as it can eat plastic fuel lines etc. Use only Isopryl Alcohol for fuel problem in colder temps.

Shir, I recently purchased a 2450 and had the exact same problem that you had. Were you able to resolve the issue and get the blower working? If so, how? Thanks.

Sorry I didn't respond sooner - and thanks for the help~

I kept pulling on the cord for a while and it finally started up - I think I had over primed it, even though I acted according to the instruction manual. In fact, the machine seems to start up fine most of the time without priming.

@rickola: I should have mentioned that it was a new machine, but thanks for the info - I'll take note of that in case of future breakdown :)

ps. what does the choke do exactly?

I've had lots of problems with the Toro 2450. In fact, I think GTS actally means "Guaranteed to S*ck"--not "Guaranteed to Start!"

Our first one NEVER got running--it stunk like fuel for several days before we exchanged it

The second one worked fine on a test run, and fired up a day or so later for a little while in the snow, until it ran out of gas. After refueling, it wouldn't start. Then it flooded. 2 days later, it was fine. I ran the gas out at the end of last season and haven't needed in since then.

Today, it started up and I blew about 400 feet of snow, and then had to come inside for about 45 minutes. I pulled the crank once and it wouldn't go, so I primed it again and pulled on the cord. No go. Stinks like gas.

On the phone with Toro, we were told we should have "warm started it" (which is NOWHERE in the booklet, by the way)--meaning no priming or open-chke whatsoever--and that if we'd bought it from an independent dealer (not Home Depot), we would have been taught how to get a "feel" for running the thing. Her advice--take it to an authorized dealer to get it looked at. And be forewarned--the Guarantee doesn't appear to cover a whole laundry list of potential "user-blame" issues such as flooding, separated gas, gunked spark, etc...

We went with Toro because we thought they were a solid company, but this has been a very regretabble purchase. There is something so bitter about shoveling deep snow when there's a $550 piece of junk sitting in the garage that won't do its job!

Ditto on the starting problems of my 09 Toro 2450.

I've used it 4 times given the light snow we have up here. Ran good the 3 times I used it in 2010, This year it absolutely refuses to start first time even though I drained the fuel last spring, use only fresh mix, and use the proper starting method (2 primes, full choke in very cold weather).

Each time I have to pull off the cover, rummage around for the buried spark plug, yank it out somehow after dropping it and the wrench a few times deep in the bowels of the machine, clean the gas off (yes it floods) and then it may or may not start.

I've tried different methods to avoid flooding but I swear it is designed that way. The local Toro dealer wants $175 up front to do a diagnostic and then they will keep some or all if "user error" is detected. What a way to run a business!

This baby is going back for (hopefully) a full refund.

Big: Sounds like fouled carb . You have probable ethanol fuel related gumming which is causing the inlet valve to stick open and flood the engine , do you have a manual fuel shutoff ? if so ensure to use it . Get some concentrated carb cleaner and add 2 ounces to your FRESH Fuel . Let it sit for approx 20 minutes . Then attempt to start the engine without choke . It may take a few attempts . Once started run it at high idle setting until it warms up . If this fails you may have to remove the float bowl and ensure that the inlet needle valve is moving freely under the float . I don't know how old your unit is but a new spark plug would be a good investment also , since your current one has been repeatedly fouled . Keep it for a spare once you have corrected you starting issues . Keep us posted . I would not give the local Dealer 2 cents of business , if required there must be other honest small engine repair shops who will assist with a reasonable repair cost . Usually $50.00 is the seasonal/annual tune up rate every where that I have dealt ..all the best !

ewalk: Thanks for the advice.

I followed your suggestions and it started right up. We're going to get hit with a snowstorm tomorrow so I hope this thing will start again. Would you run carb cleaner through it periodically?

p.s. Toro apparently has a 2 year, 2-pull start guarantee. If not, the dealer fixes it free. Wish the dealer or the Toro web people had have told me this...

pps. I have a 12 yr old Stihl chainsaw that i treat like crap - old fuel, plug every few years, etc. - it starts every time!

Well, I'm 3 years in on my Toro 2 stroke and I finally figured out how to start it first time, every time (almost).

IMHO, the shop manual directions essentially flood the engine upon start. So here's how mine starts:

1. turn on key, give ONE push on the primer (not 2-3), put choke on 1/2 (not full).

2. Pull, and it will start but will run lean and stall UNLESS you push the primer once every time it starts to stall. At the same time put choke on full.

3. Reduce to 1/2 choke when it will run on it, and then turn off choke.

4. Go blowing!

A feller donated his old 2450 snow thrower to me--sez he bought a bigger, better one. So, i fetched it home.
Tried to start it, but no luck. Not to worry--i'll get to it tomorrow, since i had got all dressed for a Dr. appointment, but they cancelled because 2 inches of snow fell last night, and the timid folks cancelled their appointments. I-state a mess-accidents all over, fire Co. out on an alarm, also a tree down, and I'm staying in.

Big: Welcome back Dude ! Sounds like you have found your comfort zone within starting proceedure . As for your question last yr as to periodic carb cleaner usage , definately yes with todays ethanol fuels. Carb gumming can become an issue a little cleaner every two or three tanks will protect your investment and reduce your frustration in the long term . All the Best :)

ewalk: I understand what you are talking about with the ethanol fuels. However, I don't understand how I would use "a little carb cleaner every two or three tanks". Basically I don't understand how to get the carb cleaner into the carb without tearing it apart. Can you exlpain in more detail?

Thanks
Randy

There are two ways to clean a carburetor. You can add carb cleaner to the gas tank, and run the machine. It will take an hour or more of operation for completion. This method only works if the carb is still working to some extent, and you are able to get the engine started. If the carb is thoroughly gummed up, and the engine refuses to start, then you remove the carb, take it apart, and soak individual pieces in full-strength carb cleaner. Generally the carburetor is put back together with new gaskets, & maybe a new float valve, if that was in the rebuild kit. Some machines will let you close the fuel valve and run the carb dry, at time of shut-down. This procedure will minimize the buildup of gum residue in the carburetor.

Regress: Adding carb cleaner or fuel cleaner can be accomplished via the venturi (throat of the carb) or by adding to your fresh fuel within the tank . There are various products out there but I find that buying a concentrated formula is the most efficient . I have pretty well reduced my product to Star*tron which can be purchased via Walmart within North America. Previously have used Lucas Products for yrs. Marvel Mystery Oil and Sea form are other fine products that you may wish to consider. Which application Spray or Liquid depends on preference or as Eric mentioned the state of condition of your engine issue . I have even poured liquid cleaner within an old windex bottle and used it to fog marine and diesel engines prior to seasonal shutdown . Hope this is of some help :)

Ahh, That makes more sense. I was thinking of the spray can of carb cleaner.

Thanks
Randy