Sears doesn't have the owners manual/schematic online.
IF you have the owners manual, can you possibly scan the schematic and email/post it?

Check anywhere a wire runs beside, under, or on top of any sharp metal piece, for a bare spot, then if you find one, tape it up. Also, check the place where the battery "minus" or black cable goes to ground, to see if the connection is rusty or loose. Check where the wires come out from under the flywheel cover, might be a bare wire there. Also, where the headlight wires plug together near the hood hinges. And, make sure the battery connections are tight!

Don't forget the starter relay if all else is ok. I had one go bad (probably internal short) and replacing it solved
the problem. As I recall they are not very expensive.

Thank you very much everyone for quick responding,I scan schematic and electrical hardware but I don't know how to post attached files in here, any Idea ? Thanks

To post a picture here, it has to be located on a server somewhere, like photobucket or similar.
If you send it to me via email, I can look through the various Sears schematics I have and match it up (hopefully). I can then post the link for that owners manual.
bkapaun AT hotmail DOT com

Truong-
I've got the schematic.
It "looks" like a relatively simpler one.
Still looking to find a match, but try this-

Disconnect the RED wire near the engine where it comes from the alternator. It may be in a connector with the ORANGE wire?
Also disconnect the BLUE wire at the Carb solenoid.

IF it STILL blows the fuse, either the RED AND/OR BLUE wire is shorted to ground.
OR the ignition switch is bad and shorting internally.

IF the RED wire blows the fuse ONLY when it is connected, your charge DIODE is most likely shorted.

One OTHER possibility is the ammeter is shorted to ground?
You can disconnect those 2 leads and jump them together to test that theory. I'm aware of that happening at least once, where an ammeter got moisture in it and shorted to the metal case.

Do you have a Volt-Ohm meter?

IGNORE last post

I read your first post again and have a different understanding.

IF the fuse is blowing when going to the ON position of the switch, but before cranking, then it would have to be the switch.
Reason-
1.-RED wire is always connected between battery and diode. Fuse would blow no matter what position ign. switch was in, if that wire or diode was shorted.
2. Engine runs. It wouldn't do that if Blue wire is grounded, since carb wouldn't pass fuel.

Are you sure the fuse isn't blown before you try to start?
It makes a big difference for trouble shooting.

Link to schematic-
Different tractor # but-
Schematic is the same, but totally ignore hour meter.
Page 29/56

http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0710614.pdf

Ignore schematic!
DUH!

His battery/fused wire goes to B and then directly to the charge diode. NO switching.
His L only goes to the fuel solenoid.

I absolutely cannot find an equivalent schematic.

Truong-
Lets start with my post- Thu, Jun 5, 08 at 14:59

Is the fuse blowing when you turn the key ON, or is it already blown when the key is OFF?

Bill,
When I insert key in the ignition switch and just turn 1 click ( see operation sheet ) to Light switch position then the fuse blew up. Remember light switch position to turn on the light only after engine start. I do have Volt- Ohm meter. Thanks all of you for post here to help.

Truong Vu

Light switch ON position has the same "RUN" connections, but also complete circuit A+Y.

Let's check the switch-
Remove switch-
With the OHM meter, put one lead on the B terminal.
In the OFF position, there should be NO continuity to ANY other terminal.
IN the ON and ON w/lights positions, there should be continuity to L ONLY.
In the START position, there should be continuity to L AND S ONLY.
Make sure there is NO continuity to terminals that shouldn't have it.
Use the "truth table" on the bottom of the schematic for reference.

I'll be near the computer, so let me know what happens (I have to go eat).
IF it's not the switch, we'll go to step 2.

Bill,

I will try it tomorrow after work 4:00 PM , tonight I have some work has to be done. Thanks

Truong Vu

Hi Bill,
Just got home from work, I removed switch and test like you show me with my OMH meter,
One lead in B terminal
with key insert OFF positon, no continuity on all terminals
turn key to light position L is continuity other don't
with start position L and S is continuity other don't
remove lead from B terminal, and put lead on A and Y terminal continuity, other don't.
That all, can you tell me what to do next ? this test mean the switch is GOOD ? Thanks for help, I will check my computer later tonight at 9:00 PM EST, after work (work at home ).

Truong Vu

Correct me if I'm wrong, but-
You can "jump start" the tractor and it works OK, AND the Carb (afterfire) solenoid IS connected?

Does the ammeter have a metal case./body?
With the key OFF, give the ammeter a good "thunk" with your palm.
Does it blow the fuse?
IF So, disconnect the leads and jumper them together.
IF that solves the problem, the ammeter is shorting when the needle moves.

"Jump star " only work for 10 second then it cut off engine, I retry 4 times and it not start at all,solenoid still connected, I'll take alook tomorrow after work, Tractor park in the shed and no light in the shed, easy work on day light. I'll try like you said tomorrow. Thanks and have a good night.

Truong Vu

Before you hook the plug back up to the switch, run these continuity tests-

Unplug FUSE
Unplug RED wire at the Charge Diode by the alternator. (It MIGHT be in a connector with the ORANGE wire. IF So, disconnect both)
Unplug BLUE wire to Carb solenoid.

Connect ONE test lead to tractor ground.
Check (individually)
L terminal
B terminal
Neither should show continuity.

BTW, did you check B and L for continuity to Y?(ALL switch positions) Shouldn't be ANY.

Do you know how to check Diodes?

Truong Vu, it is almost certainly the switch, if none of the wires are obviously pinced. Afew years back there was a rash of a half doezen or so of these cases in our county.

If it always blows on the restart, its probably the ignition switch.

Hi Bill,

I did not check B and L for contnuity to Y, will do it after work ( I'm at work right now )and will following your instruction to unplug fuse unplug red wire and so on, I don't know how to check diodes, please help ? Thanks

Hi TechDave,

Thanks for help, Bill Kapaun help me check the switch, I think switch is OK.

"Let's check the switch-
Remove switch-
With the OHM meter, put one lead on the B terminal.
In the OFF position, there should be NO continuity to ANY other terminal.
IN the ON and ON w/lights positions, there should be continuity to L ONLY.
In the START position, there should be continuity to L AND S ONLY.
Make sure there is NO continuity to terminals that shouldn't have it".

ALSO check that there is no continuity between the switch terminals and the BODY of the switch in the HL or ON position. If there is that would be the short you're looking for.

To check the diode, you'll use the Ohm Meter.
You'll have to use all the ranges in the Ohms position, since diodes "behave differently" amongst various types and different meters.
Check continuity in one direction. Then reverse the leads and check the other direction. You should find a range where the diode shows continuity in one direction, but NOT the other.
A diode is like a check valve. it allows current to flow in one direction only.
IF you get continuity in both directions, it's shorted.
No continuity in both directions it's open.

ON the SWITCH TEST-
With ONE lead on the B terminal-
CHECK for continuity to ALL the other terminals.
Compare to the "Truth Table" at the bottom of the schematic.
IF a combination isn't listed as having continuity in a specific switch position, it means it shouldn't.

In EACH switch position, you'll check 6 other terminals.
B to G,M,L,S,A&Y (G should be grounded to the body. If it isn't, also check B to the body in each position)
That means there are 24 (or 28) different combinations.

Hi all,

First of all I thank you all of you had been posting here to help me fix my Tractor, special Thanks to Bill Kapaun spending time teach me to test all wiring, Finaly I got my tractor up and run, after following Bill instruction, switch is OK and I found a wire connect to Carb solenoid is touch with engine cover, when engine got hot it melt wire isolate and stich in metal, when I check that wire with one lead ground and other touch this wire I get continuity, I tape wire with black electrical tape and put all together just turn the key for start the engine start up , now I can cut my grass tomorrow, I'm glass to be come a member this forum, Thanks to all.

Truong Vu

Great!

Craftsman Kohler V-Twinn 22 HP 50" Deck

I had the same problem...fuses blew as soon as I would turn the key. I done the wire check, battery, everything. I jumped across silinoid to start but the tractor wouldnt move or blades wouldnt turn on. When tractor was running when releasing clutch I would start to move but the mower would start to die until I pushed the clutch back in. I finally found a plug on the left side of the engine. (I think it is called an ammeter.) I unplugged this turned the key and to my suprise the fuse didnt blow. So I jumped on and it started. I put the mower deck on and again to my suprise the blades came on. Now the mower was running rough and maybe backfired a few times but the damn grass is cut. Will buy this part tomorrow lol. hope this helps someone.

On my last reply I found this part it is not an ammeter it is a Rectifier-Regulator. About 50 bucks

ii also have a craftsman 917.272067 that blows fuse 20 amo fuse as soon as i slightly turn key switch! i have replaced the solenoid,keyswitch,(2) relays, and tied the 2 wires thatgo to the dash amp meter together and still popping fuses! any help would be greatly appreciated

Hello all. I am new to the forum. My name is Tom,and I just inherited a Craftsman mower,model 917.270812 . Ran great for about 30 minutes,and died as if out of gas. Gas tank is full. When I turn the key,nothing. Dummy me replaces battery without thinking. Still nothing. Then I found a 30 amp fuse,which has one end connected to the harness,while the other end is melted. I have no idea where it is supposed to connect to. Also,the negative wire to the amp meter is not connected anywhere. Does anybody have a clue as to where the wires are to connect? I have a push mower,but the idea of cutting 3/4 of an acre here in Florida by hand, a semi-annual idea at that. I have pictures,will figure out how to post them soon. Thanks for any ideas ahead of time. Tom.

It's the negative wire off of the ampmeter. Off of the fuse,one goes to the harness,the one pictured,which is loose,looked melted. So I cut the melted piece off and stripped the wire to connect it wherever it should go. Thanks again, Tom.

I've utilized every comment on this thread to attempt to trace my similar 30A fuse blowing problem I've have with my Craftsman Garden Tractor, model: 919.258911, with no luck. I've changed the solenoid, disconnected the OHM Meter, with no result but recently narrowed it down to the rectifier. I disconnected it and it will start and run (not well) so I assumed I'd found the problem and replaced the rectifier . . . but I'm about to start drinking again because when I reconnected the new rectifier it blew the fuse. It doesn't blow until I turn to the first position. I've looked for a shorted wire leading to the rectifier, but everything seems to be OK up to where the wires go under the motor housing. . . any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Please start a new thread so we don't have to scroll all the way down each time.

There are over 200 different Craftsman electrical schematics. Following the above advice in all the other posts may not apply to your specific machine and possibly lead you down the wrong path.

Yes also supply Model and Serial Number along with model year !

My 5 dollars goes to the magnets from the flywheel came loose and had some stator lunch guess....