Service the hydro unit, it'll be fine.

I feel your pain. I got mad when my JD's kohler engine eat its oil after 9 years and 500 or so hours. It seized and I bought a new one. Sold off the carcas for $400.

They may call them sealed for life, but axles aren't. Remove the unit from the tractor, find the fill plug and check the fluid level.

Essentially, you did buy a disposable lawn tractor. You just paid a premium price because it has a certain green and yellow paint plus a well-known name. Make no mistake, it's a LAWN TRACTOR and that designation puts it at the bottom of the heap when it comes to the quality of parts selected by manufacturer's to build these models.

You can take doerman 2007's advice if you wish to but Deere won't budge. Why should they? Your tractor is four years old and well beyond the warranty period that came with the tractor when you bought it. So if you wish to elevate your heart rate day after day, then knock yourself out with the phone calls, e-mails and visits to your dealer. He is powerless to do anything for you because he didn't make the tractor and he didn't warranty it.

He's caught between you and the people who hold his franchise agreement. As much as he might sympathize for your plight, he's not in a position to help you any further.

So, I'm with the brighton and bushleague. Pull the hydro out. Locate whatever plugs might be screwed into it. If there is only a fill plug, then open it up and dump out whatever is in there into a clean bucket so you can examine the oil. If you don't see a concentration of metal particles or other nasty stuff that would indicate a catastrophic failure, then find the tag and take note of the information on it.

If the hydro is from Tuff-torque, then call their customer service department and find out what type of oil should be in this model of hydro. Lots of hydros use 20W50 motor oil but some use other types. It's important to use the correct oil. Refill the hydro in accordance with the information supplied by the service rep regarding oil level and then put the hydro back into the tractor.

My bet is the same as the other guy's. This is all that's really needed and you and your tractor will be back out cutting grass once more. If we are wrong, then all you are out is your time plus five bucks for oil. To me, that ain't much of a gamble against a $1000.00 repair bill.

If I were you, I'd google "John Deere X300 transmission recall" which would lead you to considerably more information, and another forum where they discuss stuff devoted to tractors with this particular brand name.

Which is fascinating, BTW, with thousands of farmers logging on at the same time, trying to figure out stuff.

Sorry, rushing too much here. There may not be a recall, but there exists a JD specific forum out there which might be very helpful.

Why not provide the link?

Ach, for the life of me, I can't find the right forum now - seems there are more of them than I thought - the one that I'm thinking of had one of those boxes with the number of people currently reading the forum, and the turnover rate of posts was somewhat astounding.

The answer is actually on this forum, Aug. 2006 if memory serves. In a nutshell Deere spec'd out the Tuff Torque transaxles to not be serviceable. I've been drilling and tapping a drain plug in the bottom right corner of the pan, so to speak, then filling them up with 10w30 synthetic, per Tuff Torque. Just picked up a really nice Deere with a bagger and a non-moving hydro, just needed a service.

And that's what is known as "planned obsolescence". I can understand that kind of thinking on an entry level L or LA but not on the more epensive L or LA's and certainly not on a 300 series. It's that kind of short term thinking that turns customers away from your company and sends them looking for another brand that has a fully servicable hydro so they don't get burned again.

Well, I contacted Deere several times and got nothing. The transaxle was broken beyond changing the oil. I'm not going to put another K46 in it, that's certain. I've found a guy on e-bay with 100% rating who makes an K66 upgrade for the Deere 100 series. He's currently working on an upgrade for the 300 tractors with the K72 used on Deere 500 tractors. Until he gets that gping, it's Craigslist for me. I'll buy something used and cheap won't be out 3 grand if it pukes. Meanwhile, my town holds 2 parades a year. I plan on putting my X300 on a float with a sign saying "Nothing runs for only 100 hours like a Deere."

It is a shame but true. Look in a tractor boneyard and there's a sea of green, in the mean time people bring in their 25 year old Craftsman GT's for annual maintenance where parts support is excellent, and reasonably priced.

These transmissions CAN be serviced (oil changed) and if that fails to help, they CAN be fixed. There is a tractor enthusiast forum (I'm not allowed to post here) with members who successfully fixed their tufftorq transaxle. There are other helpful links in this forum. At the very least, drop the transmission, dump out the old oil, and put in fresh. You're out a few hours and $20 of oil if you go synthetic. To have it fail at 100 hours is unacceptable, but you don't have much recourse with the manufacturer at this point. May as well attempt a repair yourself.

I'm currently looking at used Wheel Horse tractors. I'm getting the X300 repaired and selling it ASAP. Any takers?

I'm all set, just picked up a 318 with less than 400 hours on it, very nice tractor for $1100.

What was the warranty on the JD back then? I wonder how many units with the K46 are being brought back for them to honor their current four year warranty for the tranny to be replaced for free? Good going on the 318.

I've talked with engineers at tuff torq, and they say to use 5W-50 Synthetic in the transmissions. I even have 8 quarts of the stuff ordered directly from TT.

Here's what was sent to me via e-mail back in October of 2004:

K46 (w/IRH) Oil Level

Normally the model K46 IRH (Internal Reservoir Housing) transmission in tractors & riders do not require any servicing for the life of the vehicle. However, if there is a desire to check or add oil to the K46 IRH type transmission, it may be necessary to remove the transaxle from the vehicle in order to access the black cap located under the pulley & fan (on drive shaft).

After placing the transaxle on a level surface remove the fan & pulley and pry open the black cap (shown in Fig. #1 below). Oil level should be maintained at 20~25 mm (3/4"~1") below the lip of (black cap) port, when oil temperature is at room temperature (20ï°C or 68ï° F).

While reinstalling the fan & pulley on the drive shaft be sure to place all components in the same arrangement as they were removed. (I'd mark the original location with a sharpie or something else if I could).

Alternative checking location is through the breather port as shown in Figure #2 (next page). Oil level at this location should be maintained at 37~42 mm (1 7/16"~1 5/8") below lip of breather port.

Sorry I can't post the diagram photos, but at least the instructions are here. I thought I'd lost them, but still have them after all this time.

What was the tranny in my lx176? I serviced it at least 3 times. I can not understand unservicable components , and would not purchase these products. Although John Q puplic doesnt know the difference...

Hi guys. A cheap sollution to overheating transmission.

Here is a link that might be useful: diy transmission cooling

Quite the engineering maniek. It would be great to follow up w/ some temp specs/ longevity as time goes on. Had you considered a smaller cooler mounted above the flywheel screen such as a liquid cooled radiator is mounted? Even some of the engine oil coolers use are actually quite small. Cooler oil should help prolong the oil life. A quick and easy oil change system would be great.

hello again. thank You, glad that You like it. so far it works grand. the thermometer shows 40-45 degrees on after few hours of continious work. i still have to tweak it a little but i think that it goes in the right direction. over the winter i'm thinking of changing the pump for proper oil pump and i will add a in line oil filter on return hose.

i have made another movie showing the cooling system working:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDnUgr2SOhE

the reason i've fitted the radiator on front is that there is a good opening on front of the bonnet. also considered fitting the radiator underneeth the wheel arch but i was worried about damaging the radiator fins. they are very delicate.
another upgrade is to fit electronic thermometer somewhere near the hour clock with sensor fitted inside the tranny..it might sound a bit crazy but it would be handy to know the temperature inside.
now working on front/rear mounted loader. something cheaper and better than "Jonny bucket". will open new thread about it soon..
talk later..

Here is a link that might be useful: x300r transmission cooling

After reading all of the x300 post & k56 transmission issues. I have a question
I recently purchased a used 2006 x300. When pulling a trailer around the yard loaded with logs or climbing a small hill I can hear the transmission making that growling noise. I wanted to know if the noise is because of the extra stress at the time of use and is normal or is it a sign that there is a problem developing and a service oil change would be in order. This tractor is used and I do not know much about the history. It currently has 205 hours on it. It also had a 2" ball on the hitch so I am assuming that it pulled something at sometime

2006 year of build and 205 hours, plus what you are saying from actual use makes this the right time to change the oil in the tranny.

Many instances of K46 trans failure can be traced back to the operator asking a lawn tractor to do garden tractor work. "Pulling a trailer around the yard loaded with logs or climbing a small hill" puts you in that group. Also, a 2" trailer ball is a give away that this X300 has been pulling bigger stuff than a 10 cu ft garden cart. There are a lot of K46 equipped tractors out there that have no problems.

One important thing... keep the area around the fan on top of the trans clean and clear and ALWAYS operate the tractor at WOT to maximize trans and engine cooling.

If I were you I'd Google around for K46 oil change and review the procedure if you're a DIYer. Use 5-50 synthetic and either replace the trans bottom case with the one that has drain plugs or drill the holes and install the drain plugs.

The Tuff-Torq website has lots of valuable tech info and you can call them and they'll talk to you.

Your X300 has the same frame and steering as the X5xx Select Series garden tractor and used for the right job will give you years of reliable service. Exceeding the X300's design intentions will likely result in disappointment in the product, but you're asking the right questions at the right time to get the most bang for the buck from your X300. Do the routine (oil and air filter and lube and adjustment) maintenance and change trans oil every 200 hours and you should be very happy.

I purchased a John deere x300 with a 42 inch mower and snowblower. Last winter I had a problem drive up a slight incline. I didn't think too much about it until it happened again this spring. I went to the dealer where I purchased it and they said to bring it up since it was still under warranty. A few days later they called and said they could see any problems with the transmission but they noticed it was running rough so they said that was part of warranty. I picked it up and paid $411.00 and brought it home and the same thing! Not going up an incline. I called and they said well the transmission might be starting to fail and for me to bring it back up and they would look at it! I told them I wanted them to come over NOW and see what I am dealing with and they said that I not their only customer and they can't make house calls. So now I need to find a trailer take time out of.my day and bring it up to them and see if they can diagnosis the problem. Then they had the nerve to tell me that I probably purchased too small of a tractor for my lawn! Any advice?

When the dealer told you that they couldn't find anything wrong with the trans but it was running rough you should have had them explain IN DETAIL what they wanted to do, what it was going to cost, and why it wasn't covered under warranty and then asked will that work resolve the problem I'm complaining about?.

When you brought the X300 home and the problem you complained about was not resolved you should have called the service manager and explained that the $411 they charged you did not resolve the problem you complained about. You should have made them pick it up.

You should call the owner of the dealership and arrange to meet him/her and question the recommendation of the $411 repair as it did not resolve the problem and that you are not being treated as a valued customer. If you were recommended the X300 by the dealer's salesperson, and did not make the decision on the X300 on your own, why are you being told long after the fact that you "probably purchased too small of a tractor for my lawn".

Make the dealer bring an X300 out to your home and show you that it can't negotiate the same terrain that they claim your X300 is too small to negotiate.

If you get no satisfaction from the owner call JD corporate customer service and file a complaint against the dealer.

Hi,

I have the X300 with the 42" mower deck and the 44" snowblower attachment. I've had it since Dec 2012 and it has 98 hours on it.

I came across these comments looking for the lube points and I am so glad I found this. I had no idea about the transmission so thanks to all.

I Googled what david52 Zone 6 said about the recall and found this:

http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM161628_H9/Output/OMM161628_H912.html

Reading all these comments was a huge help in helping me understand more about my machine, and JD.

I just printed it and I'm back out to check what I have and to find out more about my X300.

R/

Kozzy7

Additional link for the X300. It shows safety, operation, maintenance and service on the chassis and deck. It does not show the transmission info I just commented on earlier. I find that odd since it's a JD link also.

http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM155820_H6/Output/Index.html

I have a john deere x300, 2007 model, that I can push, with effort , when the hydro disengage lever is all the way in. Is that a sign of coming problems for the transmission. No other issues.

On most Tuff Torq transmissions, you need to pull the hydro lever OUT to roll it. If not, you risk ruining your transmission if it is pushed or pulled too quickly.

With the disengage lever (free wheel) pushed in all the way (to the front) the trans will let you push it with much resistance - you are turning all the parts inside including the brake which is engaged with the forward and reverse pedals not depressed. This is normal, but if it can be pushed easily you might have a problem. Do not think you will hurt anything as long as speed of push is very slow.

How does one determine what trans is on the tractor? Is is stamped someplace on the unit? I have an X-300 that when it gets hot, is sluggish when trying to move the tractor, and I can move it with the freewheel handle pushed in where I was not able to in the past.

The transmission numbers are on a metal tag on the back (most rearward) of the trans

I own a 2006 X300 tractor. Have over 400 hours on it and the tranny just died. Costing $1000 to fix, but I really have had no other issues with the tractor. I keep up with the maintenance myself, just hurts the wallet.

Its very unfortunate, that John Deere knew of this issue and did not send out a notice to the buyers. I was fortunate, that I noticed mine in time, so they installed a new transmission and covered it under warranty. I'm sorry you had to go through this headache.... Think its piss poor communication on the John Deere part!

The K46 in the X300 may not be the problem. If it won't move - Check keway pins in the wheels to axle. The pulley to input shaft of the trans is noted to strip out. Belt loose/worn. Freewheeling rod pulled toward back. If it is just slow, you might try a trans oil change see this K46 oil change with pictures I wrote on a X300. During the oil change is a great time to check the pulley as it needs to be removed. There is a rebuild kit available from Tuff Torq for about $300 if you are handy and want to rebuild it.

Checked belt, looks good. Freewheeling rod is in correct place. Not slow, no movement forward/reverse, just stopped while mowing the lawn. Unfortunately I am not handy and looks like at the mercy of my repairman.

2012 John Deere x300. Tranny went within the first couple of months. Warranty replaced. Now 8 years later the tranny went again!!! We are on our own. Thought it would last more than 8 years after spending $3350!!

It will last if not abused and maintained. Sorry that Deere says the trans is un-servacable when it is serviceable but difficult. My X300 is over 11 years old and no problems. I just mow the grass on flat land with it and not much else.

Majority of K46 tranny issues were routine transmission oil failures from over heating , operator error ( heavy loads or hills) often contributed to these oil failures , however the oil viscosity was much to light from the get go . Heavier 5-50 w synthetic solved the problem . Leafenator is correct that servicing is quite possible just not convenient lol.

I have read more people having transmission troubles you think with A Company like JD they would build quality equipment so many models out there they keep changing models and tell these are the are newer updated BS the old ones where the good ones are built not to last it's all about the profit they want you to keep spending buying the latest. No wonder Kubota is taking over.......

These k46 issues are not soley with deere. AYP ( craftsman, husqvarna Ariens poulin) all used them and manuals all state do not use on hilly yards or with ground engaging implements . i have scrapped many of these because of tranny failures, some can be saved with fluid change and some not

my2014 X300 transmission just died.,.,,.230 hrs on it.,.,i mow approx. 1.2 acres and use the 44 inch snowblower.,.,.,i was told by dealer that J.d new of this transmission issue early on and then rebuilt/redesigned the tranny in the newer versions in 2018.,.,realizing that the 3/4 axles were borderline strong enough for the snowblower attachment.,.,.,$1,200 later.,.,i'm mowing again.,.,,.if your going to add attachment to any tractor maybe 3/4 axle should be avoided.,

Yep im having the same is with my 2015 X300

Yes My 2015 X300 has lost its tranny No help from the folks at John Deere Anyone get a good response from them?

X300 correction