Here our tomatoes are also suffering. Not because of soil but because of weather (climate). It has been very rainy and not hot enough. I think the last thing is crucial for good tomatoes. Heat and drier weather. It rains and rains. Over the last week we've had at least 8" of rain and more tonight.

Do the raised beds sit on concrete or on top of soil or old sod?

Lots and lots of compost, organic matter. There's still time to side dress this year w/ compost. Get all the fresh manure you can and compost it. Build a wire bin to be at least 3x3x3 or 4x4x4 and let it heat up, turn it a few times. Add it all directly to the top of the beds and plant directly in the compost next year.

What your soil needs depends on what it has now and what might be missing and the only way to know that is with a good, reliable soil test. Contact your county office of the University of Missouri USDA Cooperative Extension Service and ask about having that soil test done, and then dig in with these simple soil tests,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.
to see what else might be needed.
Compost and organic matter are almost always a good soil amendment.

Here is a link that might be useful: University of Missouri CES

I agree entirely about the desirability of the soil test.

I hadn't had one done here until this spring and discovered a severe deficiency. With that remedied, my garden is producing in abundance instead of struggling.

Thanks for the info...will pass on to DH

The bed is over a drainpipe that was covered with rock and finer stuff that packs down around it. Then we had that soil delivered and put on top of the settled fill. Last year was fairly decent crop, and he did put worms in it; do not know if there are any this year.