I guess I would look the replacement engine by model and type and compare. If the replacement engine has the clutch type starter shown on its recoil models and the crank is in fact different- you would be correct. Maybe they offer a cup driven starter on whatever model the rep engine is. Don't recall that on a larger frame tho. You don't see the recoil models much anymore. I think they just include a valve lash adjusting kit with the owner's manuals now... ;)

Here is a link that might be useful: Briggs parts

I would concur that having the backup recoil start on an electric start engine is nice. That is what the replacement 12-HP Tecumseh has on my LT, bought it from Small Engine Warehouse on-line. I wasn't looking for that feature but it is nice now that I have it. Once the battery gave up one Spring, I've been starting it with the recoil start ever since, starts on the second pull. Hope you find one.

I just re-engine and obsolete engine off JD. The bolt pattern and shaft type and length is the most important. Course you probably don't want anymore ebaying, but you can find new replacement engines for alot less. But, you got to know what will bolt up and hook up fairly easy if you mechanically incline. Pull types are hard to find over 14 hp. unless you can use the old blower housing and pull system off the old mower which ususally don't have the starter bendix molded into the housing.

E-bay purchases don't worry me. I got the Snapper for a decent price and was aware of it's age. In fact I've spent about 4 hours pouring over E-bay, Craigslist, the B&S site, and some other sites for cross-referencing. That the seller is offering me $150 back is exceedingly fair, IMO. In a way, I'm fortunate that it happened this soon so that he's inclined to give me a partial refund. I certainly wouldn't expect him to do that next April.

The engine I'm replacing is model 28M707 type 1026 (electric start & recoil back-up). One of the replacements I'm looking at is model 31B707 type 0005 (electric and recoil but the muffler is missing) and the other is model 31C707 type 0026 (electric only but complete) and listed as a "universal replacement" All of them (including the one that died) are 1" D x 3 5/32" L shaft with 7/16"-20 keyslot.

I would take a guess that the recoil start from the dead 28M707 won't fit either of the prospective replacements, but possibly I could purchase the recoil assembly that the 31B707 uses and attach it to the 31C707?

BTW, the Briggs replacement manual says that the engine "type" (which is a 4 digit or 4-dash-2 digit number) refers to "...engines mechanical parts, color of paint, decals, governed speed, and Original Equipment Manufacturer". Which is all pleasantly vague....Is there a breakdown what each of the numbers stands for posted anywhere?

And since I'm slightly too tired to look it up right now, how much would the muffler for the 31B707 cost and what's the part #?

".... Which is all pleasantly vague....Is there a breakdown what each of the numbers stands for posted anywhere?..."

I gave up trying to figure that out years ago!

According to the Briggs site, a muffler is $45.20. PN 697349

You can compare some engine parts by downloading the IPL for that specific engine and comparing to the IPL for a different engine. You'll see many parts in common.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/

Slight correction to my last post...

The B&S Replacement Engine Catalog lied to me (I'm sure everyone is shocked ;) ) According to Page 6 of the Catalog, the 28M707 is Type 1026. When I actually checked the plate on the engine it's Type 0112-01. I'm not sure if that actually matters or not, most of the description of "Type" sounds insignificant, but there is that "engine mechanical parts" at the beginning.....

On a side note, why can't B&S & other companies make a simplified statement about mounting bolt patterns? Something along the lines of "This engine uses Mounting Bolt Pattern (A, B, C, etc)" and PDFs with scale diagrams of each of the patterns? It doesn't matter to me if Pattern A has a bolt that Pattern B doesn't as long as everything else lines up and I can drill a hole in the deck of my mower to mount the slightly (but not significantly) different engine. I guess that would make too much sense.

google "engine repower 101" "cityfarmer" i cannot direct link to the site here or i get banned. the post give links to briggs specs. you can look up the model of the one you have and the one you wish to buy and see wha thte pattern and all is.

Hey there David...

Found what you were talking about after dropping the quotes out; great posting on MTF. I enjoy sites like that and this for people that are interested in repairing stuff instead of tossing it on a junk pile or sending to a landfill. A lot of the time it is cheaper (or no more expensive) to buy a replacement but I guess something I got from my dad is to try and repair stuff when you can. I see so much waste in everything from over-packaging to product quality (throw-away grade material or construction) and try to avoid adding to the mess.

I still don't see anything for decoding B&S Type numbers though.

Something else that came to mind, with a 9amp alternator, how much extra juice would I have for adding on a headlight or two for those "almost too dark" mowing sessions? Where would be the best place to tap for power, just straight off the battery and either frame ground or run back to the negative post?

if your alternator has 2 wires, one is usually for the headlights. they will only function when the engine is running.

if only single wire, then tap into the wire. this way the lights are on the key and you won't accidently kill the battery!

ground should go to frame regardless of where you pick power.

no, there is nothing there to determine the Type numbers, but it does give a link to the specs for all motors. look up the one you have and get the bolt pattern specs. then look up any you are looking at to see if close.

BTW, most of the time the "engine mechanical parts" difference is nothing more than if the fuel pump is mount to the engine, it has a larger alternator, different carb, etc..

according to Bill some engines you can look up the specs and they have the SAME bore and stroke, yet may have several hp difference in rating. this ONLY difference between them is the carb installed. you can change out a carb and take a 20hp up to 24hp with no other changes and no ill effects.

As far as elect vs pull start???? I would think if the engine looks the same you could just take the electric start components off the old engine and reinstall them on the new one without elect start capability if that's the only difference??. usually all you need are the flywheel (if old one don't have the teeth ring) blower housing, starter, soloniod (most briggs have sub located soloniod anyway so it maybe already installed)(if the soloniod is already on the starter then all you have to do is hook up the wires.

davidandkasie

IF you are trying to quote me, then get it correct!

Bill_K, I THINK David is quoting his friend that runs a shop.

i was quoting Bill from memory. should have been about the only thing different, not just "the only thing". and it does not apply to ALL motors, you have to look them up.