"The ID of the disc is larger than the hub and allows it to move up and down over 1/4"

"If I press lightly on the bottom of the disc with my finger, it moves up and down over 1/4"

Sounds to me like you do not have the liner inside the rubber tired driven wheel. Apparently you have a "Soft Start" clutch which requires the liner inside. You can buy the liner separate but it would have been best to buy one with the liner already inside.

Walt Conner

Part # Description Qty
1 7600142 ! KIT, Driven Disc Hub (assembly) : Was 57338

2 7600135 ! KIT, Driven Disc (rubber tire bonded to rim)

According to the parts schematic, I have all the parts correct. It doesn't show if part 1 (7600142) has rubber applied to it. I wish I could find some pictorial somewhere.

There are rubber tired driven wheels without the liner used for some mowers, don't give a hoot what the numbers are, you need one with a fiber liner inside the rim of the driven wheel. You don't need a picture to see if there is a fiber liner inside the driven wheel.

Walt Conner

I'm on the right track now. Thanks, Walt.

The disc that is now sold, has the inner liner. My Snapper rider is an '83 model, and when i bought a new driven disc for it, i had to remove the inner liner. I was told by the seller of the part (a dealer of Snapper) that i would probably have to remove the inner liner, and i found that to be true. The later ones did need that liner. Also, if you ever remove the big aluminum drive disc from the engine, when you replace it--the face of that disc must be 3 and 7/8th inches from the underside of the plate the engine is bolted to. RJ

While Driven Discs from Snapper Dealers may no longer be available without the liner, they are available aftermarket. I do not remember if I have ever bought one from a dealer.

Walt Conner

I was talking with my buddy who works at the Snapper dealership and he said both discs are identical, except that one has the liner inside. It was because with a rear-engine rider, the front ends were lifting off the ground when the clutch was released. Stens sells both types, but they supply the liner and you have to install it. My buddy said that the liner was too wide and he had to trim it. Stens said they would take care of it, but he never bought a liner from them afterward.

The liner is about $5, so you now pay extra since only one type is available, need it or not.

The Sten's separate liners did stick out a little on the inside but never bothered anything, there is nothing there for them to interfere with. Maple Grove is the best place for most parts right now.

Walt Conner

I have replaced my drive disk and liner and still will not drive ...what other adjustments can there be...

Need ya help

These typical have a fiber spacer disc which is wavy and takes up some of the side to side play between the rubber tired driven wheel and the disc holding it in place however this has nothing to do with the operating problem you describe. It should be 3-3/4" from the under side of the mower frame to the driving face of the metal drive disc mounted on the engine crankshaft. This is adjusted by loosening the two set screws in the disc hub and moving the drive disc up or down.

Walt Conner

Why would the disk move on the crank shaft been good for years...ate you sure its not the clutch disk between the drive disk and the pressure plate....its a flat round looks like gasket material ..I would call it a cluch disk

I don't recall that you mentioned this detail. It will cost you nothing to check it. You did ask for help.

The only power transfer is between metal drive disc on the crankshaft and the rubber tire on the driven wheel then between the liner on the inside of the driven wheel and the drum that it rides on. There is no pressure plate. The fiber disc is, as I said previously, simply a spacer NO power is transmitted via this part. There is a Mirad of things that could cause your problem from sheared thru bolt in one of the hubs to worn out shifter yoke or grease on the drum where the liner runs. Things do wear out and slip adjustment. I am afraid you will have to do more checking to pin point it.

Might start by standing the mower on its' rear standards with shifter in neutral, grasp both wheels alternately push and pull on them then one at a time Wheels should feel connected to each other when both are turned and driven wheel should spin. Holding one wheel while turning the other should make held wheel want to turn backwards and driven wheel spin.

While there check the position of the stop for the shifter yoke, check for worn dips in the shifter yoke where the roller on the center chain case runs back and forth to change speeds also to raise and lower the center chain case with the rubber tired driven wheel on it. This should be basically flat, no deep hollows in it, check for broken or weak pressure spring on the shifter yoke for starts.

Walt Conner

I installed a new disc on a snapper sr1433. it was running fine, the disc wheel had cracks on the rubber and i decided to replace it. now the mower will not go forward on an incline. should the disc turn on the shaft? im not familiar with the clutch disc operation. i think when i got the disc, the guy had to glue a liner on the inside. i really dont know because when i picked it up it was on the parts counter waiting for me. any suggestions would be appreciated/

danny

Sounds to me like you have an easy start clutch assý and the driven wheel does not have the required liner inside it. You can tell by looking inside the rim, remove the driven wheel if you must. I have never seen a liner glued in, I never have done that and they work fine. And yes, the rubber tired driven wheel floats free in the Easy Start Clutch assembly. The driving force comes from spring pressure pushing the liner inside the driven wheel against the flat hub inside it. It is intended to slip on start to take the neck snap out of Snapper.

You can contact me directly at address below IF I can be of help. Put in proper format and remind me what is going on.

Walt Conner

wconner5 at frontier dot com

I just tackled the same problem on my Snapper rear engine rider.My rubber disc has the liner and the wheel itself is sloppy but I have a solution for you. If you look at the back of your mower you will see several round holes across the back in the frame of the mower. If you lay on the ground and look through the second hole from the left you can see the disc with the pulley on it. Put the mower in neutral and reach under the back and rotate until you see the 2 setscrews securing the disc to the crankshaft. You might need to shine a flashlight to see them. When you can see the setscrews place the mower in first gear or 1. Using a long T handled allen wrench go through the hole in the frame and loosen both the setscrews a few turns.I believe the size is 3/16 inch. After loosening both setscrews use a pry bar to move the disc down until it puts pressure on the rubber drive disc. Don't use brute force but firm pressure. While applying pressure tighten both setsrews down securely.Get them real tight because you want the disc to stay put and not move. Put the mower in neutral, start and go, problem solved. They have a specific measurement from the bottom of the engine mount to the face of the disc but in most mowers that have been around awhile those measurements will not work. I just did this to my mower as I replaced the engine and had to adjust the drive plate to get it going. I hope this helps everyone.Thanks, Mike A

My snapper rear engine rider (SR1028) goes too fast in low gear,I just replaced drive wheel and plate.

Well you can loosen the 2 studs holding the shifter lever bracket on the side and move it within limits. It must not be moved so far there is no neutral.

Walt Conner

All good advice here.