Here are a few things to consider:
Maybe you're over watering. Maybe you're under watering. Maybe your organic fertilizer is providing excess nitrogen. Maybe the area is too shady. Maybe you have a nematode problem. Maybe excess salinity and/or soluble boron are inhibiting plant vigor. Maybe you have a root disease problem. Maybe you're not fertilizing enough and you are low on nutrients. Maybe soil compaction is having a negative effect on root development, drainage and aeration.

I would also like to address tomato rape with a public service anouncement:

You've had a hard day at work. Maybe you'll go home, take a nice bath, rape some tomatoes and pop in a movie. Sounds like fun right? Wrong. Don't rape tomatoes.

{{gwi:302034}}

Sorry about that, I think you knew what I meant.

I do water my tomatoes once a week about a inch of water per week. They are in direct Sun light.

I will say one thing that after the garden is done it will get a soil test.

By growing Early Girls I should have had tomatoes by now.

It's hard to say. Are you lagging other local gardeners?

(Thanks gargwarb, I laughed like a seizure and knocked over half a cup of coffee. Totally worth the mess!)

Sorry johnaw, I knew exactly what you meant. I saw the bump-set and I just had to spike. My wife says that I don't have the same filter between my brain and my mouth that most other people do.
It's hard to say if that's enough water or too much. It depends on so many factors that the best way to know is actually dig down and check the moisture in the whole root zone. The sun part is good and so is the soil test part. Petlpatsy also makes a good point about what other tomatoes are doing right now.

gargwarb.. I just had a seizure too.. thanks! Also sounds like the manure might have a cold or something, that could be looked into as well.

I am having a problem with tomato rape here, but it is the groundhogs, not the soil or water.

Seriously though, if you think it is the soil try a tomato plant in another area or a self-watering container next year. I also agree, look for other gardeners and ask about when they get ripe tomatoes. Do you have a farmer's market in the area?

You can also try the veggie forum here on GW, they are very helpful.

Yes I did have a groundhog around once or twice this year but nothing like last year. I had or still do have a Granddaddy of groundhog last year but have not see him this year yet. If fact they have not been around eating my tomatoes off the vine.

I am ready for Ground Chuck and they are not. How many pounds do you want?

In fact I still think that there is something tide up in the soil that is not getting into the Tomatoes.

John: I'm going to try growing my tomatoes in an area less inhabited by the groundhogs next year using this design for self-watering containers. Maybe it would be helpful for you to try this too and see how it goes.

Here is a link that might be useful: Self-Watering tomato containers

Start with your soil and do get that good, reliable soil test so you know what your soils pH and what the base nutrient load is. Also dig in with these simple soil tests,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.
to see what you have and for help in determining what you need to do to get a good, healthy soil.
There are a number of reasons why an early season tomato would not ripen before a late season mostly weather related (too cool), but certain nutrients could be lacking or not in balance.

Here is a link that might be useful: OSUCES

I have the same problem, and I think I tracked the problem down to water stress caused by fluctuation between wet and dry soil. Since I live in the Pacific NW, everyone said never to mulch my tomatoes because it would cause cool soil, which would slow down tomato growth and ripening.

In desperation (we've gotten early freezes in the first week of Sept, right when the tomatoes were ripening), I threw out all the local advice. I planted as soon as I could hope for success, and mulched them, and kept them mulched with straw all through the season.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Not only did they grow more steadily and larger, but the tomatoes showed up sooner, and ripened sooner. I even had success with my Brandywines, from which I had never gotten a single ripe fruit.

Another benefit was that the mulch prevented soil from splashing on the lower leaves. Whatever disease that causes, they didn't get it. The plants were green and beautiful right up to frost.

So, try mulching next year, even if it's just a few, and see if there's a difference for you.

Sue

I'm in Cincinnati, and our spring and early summer were really cool and wet, with little sun. My tomatoes as well as flowers were later this year. Did you have the same unusually cool and cloudy wet weather in June and July? That will make the maters later.

Karen