Typically, one would use a pneumatic impact wrench.

Another method is to remove the spark plug and feed some rope into the cylinder, leaving a "tail" outside the hole.
Slowly rotate the engine until the piston is "locked" against the head. (Rotate in the direction needed)

Remove nut, rotate engine opposite direction some & retrieve the rope.

OP - the flange or outer housing of that PTO should have provisions for being attached to the tractor's frame to prevent it (and the wire harness from turning when the pulleys are operating.
If/when you get that PTO removed, put a bit of never-seize on the threads before retorquing...

An electric impact is more cost effective than a pneumatic impact. Around $40 on sale @ Harbor Freight and VERY useful around the house and garage.

In looking at the clutch, I can't see where it might attach to the frame to prevent rotation. I've looked in the service manual, which (amazingly) does not include any information on the PTO clutch itself. It does briefly mention removing the clutch in order to get to the drive belt, and includes the following:

"NOTE: Lower the clutch carefully, keeping track of the hardware on the crankshaft. There are variations between engines, clutches and years:
� Spacers above or below the traction drive pulley.
� Integral or separate key on traction drive pulley.
� Different PTO clutch anti-rotation brackets"

My PTO does have a bracket, but it's not connected to anything, nor is it obvious where it should be connected.

If I could re-anchor the clutch to the frame, I might be able to rewire it without actually removing it at all.

Thanks for that tip - I've updated my profile to allow email from members. I'll try to send you an email shortly.

Or if the OP had simply Googled he's have found... this

I googled a LOT of material, but I had no idea who made the clutch... so the word "Warner" was not among my search terms. (In fact, that's how I found THIS site.)

Still, I learned something important from your attachment. It appears that the clutch needs to be prevented from rotating, but should not be firmly locked. It needs some freedom to turn on its axis - just not too far. True?

a lot of the elect PTO's on 1000 cubs are made by Ogura, I believe..

Warner and Ogura... similar design, installation, and troubleshooting.

Googling "cub cadet electric PTO troubleshooting" will take one exactly where they need to go.

And then there's searching this forum... search "electric PTO" and there are 144 matches. Search "Cub Cadet PTO" and there are 43 matches.

"Googling "cub cadet electric PTO troubleshooting" will take one exactly where they need to go. "
baloney, imho - it takes you to a plethora of anything from JD youtube stuff to IH warner golden oldies - just enuff to confuse a guy with a fairly new CC 1045 with an Ogura built non-adjustable clutch that has broken away from it's moorings underneath and partially torn the input wire harness. The OP 1) needs to see if he can salvage that $$$$ PTO by repairing that damaged harness and 2)determine if he cen properly re-asm the cluch housing while maintianing the slight amount of movement needed by the clutch.

So Google works different for you than me? Baloney!

Google "cub cadet electric PTO troubleshooting" and the second hit takes you to a forum where the FIRST post includes a link which is a PDF file that covers Warner and Ogura brand electric PTOs and provides troubleshooting procedures and the specs needed to test a PTO. That's as far as anyone needs to go to get the info needed to resolve this problem withe the exception of the PTO's specific rotational fixment of the OPs specific CC model. For that the OP should be hunting down the service manual for his/her specific CC model if he/she can't recognize the correct fixment by looking at the unit..

well, wow! he got google skill.

Trying to be part of the solution instead of part of the problem... you?

OK, regardless of how google may or may not work, I didn't find it. I tried a number of combos of terms involving the words "Cub Cadet PTO Clutch LT1045 won't engage" and similar. I did not include the word "troubleshooting", so I missed that one.

More importantly, I successfully removed the clutch. It is a Warner TG2000 manufactured in March 2008. The ground wire is broken at the terminal - fortunately there is about 1/4 inch of wire remaining. I can work with that. Interestingly, there is already a splice in the wire with electrical tape wrapped around it, so obviously it has been repaired before. (I bought it second hand.)

But I still have no idea how to prevent rotation. There is nothing obvious on either the clutch or the chassis that would accomplish this. Maybe that's why it's broken!

The Warner doc that justalurker posted shows some methods for preventing rotation, but I'm sure there must be some "proper" method for my specific model. Anyone know?

If you can post a picture of the area around the PTO we might recognize it.

Or courtesy of Google...

1. You can download the service manual from Cub Cadet by clicking here

2. You can click here for parts diagram and parts list

3. Part # 13 in the following diagram looks like the clutch bracket...

Thanks, very helpful. I've never seen PartsTree before. I looked up the actual model there (mine is from 2008), and the picture is slightly different:

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=cub_cadet&mn=LT1045+Tractor+%282008+%26+after%29&dn=6900578I0022

In the newer diagram, there is no "clutch bracket" except on the 50" model. The 45" model (LT1045) doesn't have one.

However, it does have the belt keeper rod (part # 23 in the diagram). I wonder if that part (which I do have) fits in such a way as to block the rotation of the clutch. I'd have to go back and check - it had to be removed to get the cutting deck off, so it was not in place when I removed the clutch. Perhaps it blocks the clutch rotation once it is installed?

My previous link to SERVICE MANUAL is a link to the operator manual

Does the picture answer your question?

Picture from the FREE service manual you can download by clicking here

Yes, I had noticed that the earlier link went to the wrong manual. Unfortunately, so does the latest link in your most recent post.

If you can post a link to the correct service manual, I'd be very grateful to have it.

However, your photo makes it clear that my guess was correct. Now I have all the info that I need to complete the repair.

Thank you!

Jim,

It's taking all the self control I have not to rant so I apologize in advance...

People who won't make the slightest effort to help themselves don't deserve help from others. You know what you want and you won't even take the time to type that in a search so why would I do it for you... again, some more?

With respect, find the manual link yourself.

OK, so now I'm the one who feels sheepish. I had looked all over the site that contained the Op manual - by taking the link that you provided and going back through the various directories on that server, all without success.

But, yes, a quick google search got me the link to the manual. So your controlled rant is entirely justified.

Worse yet, it turns out that I already HAVE the manual. I had downloaded it from an earlier post and had read through it already. As soon as Google found it for me, I realized that I'd already seen it. So apparently I'm TWICE stupid. :) Or at least sleepy.

I do find it surprising, though, that the manual really doesn't have a section on the PTO Clutch itself. It covers the circuit, but not the actual device. But that's MTDs problem, not yours or mine.

Thanks again for all your help!

Often, service manuals are intended for use by professional techs who already know the 101, 201, ans 301 of the product. The manual assumes the user has that knowledge and only deals with the specifics of the particular model. In other words, service manuals often leave out the common and obvious (to a trained tech) stuff.

You're not twice stupid. You are just ignorant in this instance and that can be cured... stupidity is a lifelong affliction.

To do anything one needs the knowledge and the tools. Lacking either or both they are at the mercy of others whether it is free advice or paying someone to do the job.

Had you paid attention while removing the PTO how it was locked from rotating would have been obvious. Get a digital camera and take pictures BEFORE you disassemble.

Make sure you properly torque the PTO bolt or you'll get to buy a new PTO and you won't like what they cost.

Your question was answered. You have the info you need to do the repair, You learned something... all is good.

"It's taking all the self control I have not to rant so I apologize in advance"...

self-control - from an antlerhead ? Bwah-haw-haw-....

rcbe,

You're an asset to every forum you don't post on.

Ok boys. You're about to get schooled by a girl. I too own a cub cadet LT1045 and my pro clutch needed replaced. So to tighten your pto clutch bolt and to get your lock nut to lock WITHOUT your clutch rotating you:

1. Open the hood of your lawn mower

2. Locate your engine

3. Locate your engine cover

4. Remove engine cover

5. See that bolt in there? You hold that in place with one ratchet while you turn to tighten your clutch bolt with another ratchet... TIGHT

6. Replace engine hood cover

7. Close hood

Shall I be an arrogant smart a$$ and state, "it's taking all the self control I have not to rant....?"

Signed, single mom of 4 who doesn't need a man that rants

"See that bolt in there? You hold that in place with one ratchet while
you turn to tighten your clutch bolt with another ratchet... TIGHT"

Before YOU school anyone you should have paid more attention the day at school they covered torquing to correct spec cause PTO bolts have a habit of unscrewing when they are only tightened to TIGHT while being held with another ratchet. Then you might get to buy another PTO, usually repair the wire harness, often lose the bolt, and sometimes screw the threads up in the crankshaft because you don't know what you don't know.

No rant... just fact.

Whatever makes you feel like a man.

That's quite an entrance right there... Can you commit to a project a week maybe?

The guy who has a college degree in torquing? Or me?

@ Karrie Ann Stewart.

The correct torquing (tightening for you) of fasteners is fundamental to the assembly of devices that use fasteners. If it was to be ignored the specifications and the tools would not exist.

A kid in a tire shop knows to correctly torque lug nuts long before he goes to college.

For those afflicted with the skill level you exhibit from your post, TIGHT is what? Strip it and back off a half turn? Pull on that ratchet till you turn blue? Pull on the ratchet till your elbow clicks?

There was no man or woman in this conversation until you injected it. It's a skill, knowledge, and competence conversation and me not wanting too see you rube yourself into an expensive repair.

Over the years I've known and worked with a great number of exceptional female techs in a variety of fields and they all shared at least one valuable trait (with some of the men I've known and worked with)... to listen when someone who knew more than them shared their knowledge and experience so they could improve theirs.

If your best retort to information provided at no charge is "whatever makes you feel like a man" than with my apologies to the multitude of women who are not so arrogant... whatever makes you feel like a woman or as Mr. T said... "I pity the fool"..

If you know so much then why didn't you tell the gentleman who first opened this discussion how to torquing solve his problem? So I used a few words that didn't meet your mechanic vocabulary?. I'm not a mechanic. I am a woman -who had an issue -who searched the Internet for an answer. I stumbled upon this blog. And it was not helpful. In fact it was berating to the man who originally sought help. And whether I use the word "torquing" or "tighten", ultimately I solved the problem- On my own! What did you do to solve the problem? Other than criticize me for my choice of verbiage? I'm quite certain the next person who has this issue- who comes to this site- will now have a torquing solution.

This has been a sheer delight :)

I'm out.

Oh. By the way... My clutch works great! Crazy how "tight" resulted in a successful result! Maybe use all this knowledge and skill to create a mechanic's thesaurus? Just an idea.

I swear that wasn't me but I really like it.

Karrie Ann,

Your clutch definitely works great but will it work great indefinitely?

It is not the verbiage... torquing or tightening. It is the procedure of tightening of the bolt to either a random, and usually insufficient, degree as you did versus the tightening of the bolt to a specific tightness (torque) as the service manual and manufacturer instructs to prevent it from loosening under load. You can not do that unless the PTO assembly is LOCKED and you have a torque wrench, torque sticks, or other specific device (tool) to indicate the torque applied when tightening. Holding one ratchet in one hand while tightening the other ratchet with the other hand will not get you remotely close to the 100 ft/lbs that some manufacturers spec for a PTO bolt. Experienced people know that and we see people posting that their PTO fell off and we know why.

You don't need a mechanic's thesaurus you need a dictionary and to show some respect to those trying to help you rather than consider constructive criticism a personal attack. Don't be so emotional ma'am.

You're so intent at bitching and admit you're not a mechanic so simply say thank you when people take their time try to educate you in the hope of saving you from yourself and an expensive repair.

""It's taking all the self control I have not to rant so I apologize in advance"...

self-control - from an antlerhead ? Bwah-haw-haw-...."

still germain, methinks.. but, mebbe rollergirl can give you an assist with the wet/dry torque pitch - that otta be good.

Ya know, this last chapter shows how fixated we are on the details rather than being happy for someone who solved their own issue. Considerably too loose or too tight could pose a problem, true. How about a good for you? If this person has a strong personality- so what? Truth is the whole thread is so meandering that I can't even understand if the proper solution was ever given anyways. I can understand the frustration. Fortunately the mass of raising children as a single parent has been long gone for me. Thank you for contributing. Happy days.

Ya know, I Googled for hours trying to fix my pto problem. Never saw a picture like the one posted in this thread, which explained everything in detail to me. Google works in mysterious ways sometimes, just so glad I found this thread even with a rant in it, Thanks to all who participated!

Wow, no one really actually called out the answer to this question other than the picture, just fighting. Even though it is a several year old thread it came up when I was searching the same issue. I didn't have the luck to take it apart myself, I bought a tractor with the bad clutch already removed. WHAT ANYONE WHO IS HAVING THIS ISSUE IS LOOKING FOR IS THE ROD-BELT KEEPER. ON MY CUB LT1050 IT IS MTD PART NUMBER 747-04307. The small kinda rectangular bent rod that looks like a belt guard to keep it in place, when reassembling the pto clutch one of the final steps is to put this back on and it aligns to sit in one of the slots on the side of the clutch assembly. that is what stops the whole thing from free spinning.

P.S. exact torque rarely matters unless a gasket is involved.

Use an impact with ⅝ socket. If that doesn't work, remove spark plug and insert⅜" nylon cord into cylinder until it hit bottom. Then turn engine counter-clockwise until cord jambs up. Turn till it comes off, and it will. Read that on some forum. I'll figure out which one and forward it.

HEY your c/c1045 the clutch has a 1/4 bent rod of steel wrapping from one side to opposite side thus a notch on the clutch is engaged to prevent clutch rotation. the 5/8 bolt is removed by ccrotation counter clockwise rotation u/r tigheting if y

u try to remove the bolt in a normal way.Go to google o/l ask your ??? give the model ##,Problem solved