Sounds like your choke butterfly is not fully closing...needs to be...check throttle cable adjust...and make certain the push rod for choke isn't missing...if its a Briggs Stratton eng.

pull carb and reclean. disasm and soak components overnite in liquid carb cleaner. Using a small dia stiff brass wire and a magnifier, probe every orifice/passageway in each component, blowing out with compressed air to remove loosened trash/jellied gas. Rebuild carb with appropriate kit using only fresh gaskets and seats. Remount, checking for tight seal at intake manifold. Check for proper choke butterfly function. Good luck.

Drain out most of the gas . Pour in a 1/2 can of Berryman's B 12 Chem-Tool. Start the engine by priming and keep adding as it falters. Give it 5 or more minutes If it smooths out, stop priming. If it doesn't, give it a few days to soak then try again. The stuff is cheap and effective. It is just non-aerosol carb cleaner. You may want to verify that flow is adequate as well.

hey suspicionofignorance - Butterfly is close correctly.
Hi robe - I used a small wire to probe each passageway and compressor error to blow through it. So I didn't think I would need to soak it overnight. I will try that as I wait for the carb kit.
Hey Andyma - regarding the gas flow. I took the gas hose off the carb to drain pan. As I turned over the motor, gas came out. Not hard but what seemed to be adiquate to me. Should there be a strong gush of gas? Or ?? What pressure?
Thanks All
Rich

Good suction with hand over carb, Choke butterfly fully closed... If you noticed fuel was in carb bowl----then problem has to be completely clogged main jet ..If bowl is dry. then stuck needle ...IMO....

hey suspicionofignorance - Butterfly is close correctly.
Hi robe - I used a small wire to probe each passageway and compressor error to blow through it. So I didn't think I would need to soak it overnight. I will try that as I wait for the carb kit.
Hey Andyma - regarding the gas flow. I took the gas hose off the carb to drain pan. As I turned over the motor, gas came out. Not hard but what seemed to be adiquate to me. Should there be a strong gush of gas? Or ?? What pressure?
Thanks All
Rich

I would think your flow is fine. In most cases on these if there is an obstruction, it is in the nozzle that comes down from above into the fuel pick up area. These are not typically problematic to clean. Most problems with these will be with the the moth gasket, or mainly the o ring at the bottom of the tube. The two main jets that slip in from the bottom of the pick up tube do have to fit snug and seal well. If not, they get replaced along with the tube kit. It is a better idea to replace the pick up tube assy if you need to buy both rings. I'd be curious to know what part number kit you have ordered and what the spec number is.

Hey tomplum
Carb kit info;
Carburetor kit - Part #: 797890
Not sure what a "spec number" is?
Thanks,
Rich

Hey tomplum
Carb kit info;
Carburetor kit - Part #: 797890
Not sure what a "spec number" is?
Thanks,
Rich

Ooops, code number. Yours is likely the one with the steel bowl I'd think.

It appears to be the correct kit.
TYPE # 0607 is the only one shown for the steel bowl and his is 0167.

On Partsmart they don't make the delineation w/o the code. It allows me to select either style. Or if the carb has been replaced prior, they went to the aluminum style a while ago. I know the aluminum bowl model has a different lower seal in it. I buy an occasional kit on these and tend to just stock what I need.

It shows the steel bowl as a one barrel and the other as a 2 barrel carb.

Weird! Partsmart shows them all, just that the one barrel isn't a fit for this engine. My thought is that it probably originally a steel bowl. Some IPLs show both, but I had one last week that had an aluminum on it, but just the old steel bowl on the IPL. I'm guessing that the OP's unit is a 2002. That's where the code number would help. Some parts weirdly cross fit according to the IPL, a mix of date codes etc. 2006 /7 I think is where we saw the aluminum bowl w/ the solenoid out the side. Time can play tricks though...

Hello gentlemen. I am back to report more regarding my sears rider. I soaked the carb, no rebuilt kit. The rider now runs but idles rough. I can find a choke point (somewhere about 3/4 choked) and it runs find. Anything lower (choke) it runs rough. checked compression; 180 and 150. Not sure if compression is reliable any more through. New plugs, both have spark. Fuel filter stays full while running. I can disconnect left plug wire with right wire still connected to plug then do the same with the other side and each scenario it runs the same as with both wires connected to each plug. A strange (to me) is that after running for over 5 minutes straight then turned it off; after taking the plugs out, the right plug (the one interfacing with the fuel vacuum system) was HOT and the left just warm. Checked piston for movement, both are good. Checked OHV and both look OK and movement as expected. Haven't checked the head for value seat issue yet. Thoughts??? I am not sure what to check next? Carb issue yet? Thanks much, Rich.

If you had lost a seat, it would be holding the valve open and it would be noticeable. For giggles you could remove the shrouding and disconnect the kill wires from both coils. Do a short 2 minute test run and note any changes.

Well... I put a carb kit in and it only running rough. Have to keep it choked to keep it running. If not, the throttle goes up and down repeatedly. We moved to North Carolina is the reason for the delay in getting this thing running.

Suggestions?

Thanks once again,

Rich

did you do what tom suggested?

Hey Rexlex, I will do that today and let you know. Thanks.

Hey guys! I disconnected the kill wires from both coils and it wouldn't even start. Again checked spark; it was good. Check plugs; they were dry. Check fuel delivery to carb; it had good flow. I must still have carb problems. What is the best carb cleaner?

Does it make sense to use the recommended; Berryman's B 12 Chem-Tool?

Thanks again,

Rich

Is the intake tight to the engine? I lost track of this thread when my outdated system was hijacked for ransom. Didn't pay. If there is spark, then it is fuel, Unless there is a leak... Berryman's is a liquid added to fuel . For general carb maintenance store brand spray is best because it is cheapest. Just for grins, tap the fuel bowl, gently to loosen a stuck float. Only after trying a few things would I take the carb apart again.