The "L" series John Deere makes are basicaly Scotts painted Green, they are not true John Deeres but rather a rip off in my opinion to compete with the Box store sales like Craftsman and MTD. On a true John Deere you will find better engines, stronger frame, better transmission, and basicaly better everything. For instance MY friends L series 20hp gets smoked in every chore by my LT160 16hp. This is why you are having so much trouble with your L118.

The early nineties gear-drive Murrays are actually pretty tough little machines. I have no personal experiences with the "L" Deeres...yet.

I was given a Scotts(Deere) 2046 with a bad hydro. The hitch ball has been removed from the rear but that area is pretty scratched up. I think it went through the Rita cleanup scenario, pulling a trailer heavily laden with downed tree debris.

I have the previous owner's maintenance records. Everything except the hydro is in really good shape. The records agree with the clock - 260 hours. The steering is tight; the V-twin Briggs sounds good and uses no oil.

I'll take a closer look at the front end and frame, but I don't think I'll find anything broken. Perhaps you got a Friday or Monday machine?

Thanks for the heads up.
Ted

Oh no, say it isn't so--- a John Deere with a cracked frame! My ole Masseys are 35 yrs young and still going strong. To be fair though all mine are real garden tractors, not riding mowers, so thats like comparing apples to oranges.

I am already wearing my flak jacket......so fire away. Mr. fixit, I am not questioning anything about the way or schedule of your maintenance. I just want to point out an aspect of the cracked frame that MIGHT BE due, in part, to the fact that the machine is "trailered" regularly (I know you didn't state that but 10 yards per week sort of implies that). I have seen quite a number of mowing machines being driven onto trailers over the years. People who are "new" to that (or do it rarely) usually just sort of "creep" up the ramp (or the tilted trailer if it is that) at a snail's pace. People who do it regularly accomplish it a bit faster. Some people who have a lot of work to do and little time literally "fly" into the trailer. Unloading the machine from the conveyance is pretty much the same in all cases except the machine is going in reverse (of how it went on). The only thing on these machines that "gives", are the tires. Repeat this operation often and you have a potential "fatigue failure" or "stress crack" scenario in the making. Now, add to this the fact that while the machine is being "hauled" from point to point, it is receiving jolts and bounces as the trailer (or truck bed) encounters holes/dips in the road surface. Most of the trailers don't have a "soft ride", so even though the mower is not carrying a driver, it is still being "slammed" up and down against the floor (wood planks or steel). This is not the sole cause of frame cracking (obviously, because not ALL machines get trailered regularly) but it is certainly a contributing factor.

Those are good points, Mownie. Another thing is possible shipping or receiving damage. An inexperienced forklift operator could have dropped it. It's happened before and will happen in the future. With the way they set up the tie rod who knows what kind of people they hire. Might want to find another dealer.

Another thought is the speed those ten yards/week were cut. Commercial duty is hard on a machine. That's why warranties aren't based strictly on hours or years. There is a difference in the way homeowners and commercial operators use a machine. My BIL could cut his yard in 30 minutes but he sure wouldn't use my machine to do it.

I'm not pointing fingers just rambling on a rainy Sun. morning.

Ted

Absolutely right about commercial duty being different from residential/home owner usage. Where a home owner would surely take take time to fill a hollow/dip/hole in the lawn, a pro mower probably will not (unless that is counted in his contract). And you're right too about the speed of operation. Where the home owner might count his "seat time" as leisure, and pace the cutting a bit slower, the pro mower must make haste ("I have promises to keep, and miles to go before I sleep.") Everything about commercial duty is rougher on the machine (and the operator).

Ok, guys. I suppose you make a good point about commercial duty being harder on the equipment, and also about the trailering. This thing lives on that trailer. I do keep it tied down tight so that it cannot bounce and move around. Also, the thing is driven at the fastest speed possible given the cutting conditions and terrain. But, we try to avoid large bumps, holes, and tree roots. Not saying that we haven't hit them, but we try to slow down for those. You tend to learn where they are after a couple of mowings. I guess I was comparing this machine to the 1992? Murray gear drive and the 2000 Muray hydrostat that we had in the past. This one sure seems to have had a lot more trouble. Come to think of it, the old Murray had less trouble that the new one, not that the new one had that much anyway.

I wonder what the life of one of these Deere mowers would be for a homeowner? I suppose that I am like those accerated wear tests they do on cars, you know where they open and close the doors 1,000,000 in a week. Anyhow, I will try to take some pictures of the area on the frame and axle that I fixed. I would suggest anyone with one of these to add 1/2" of weld on each side of the frame just as a precaution. I'm fairly certain that they will all break there given enough time, and a little weld can't hurt anything either. And as far as the hydro goes, I would try not to tow anthing with too much drag. The K46 (I think it is) doesn't seem to be all that stout.

"L", "LA", "Scotts", and "Sabre" models are not real John Deeres.

These models are just re-badged Murrays and they all SUCK.

Get a REAL John Deere and your life will be so much better.

grassmaster

"L", "LA", "Scotts", and "Sabre" models are not real John Deeres.

These models are just re-badged Murrays and they all SUCK.

Uh, no. The entry-level Deere's are NOT rebadged Murrays. They are made by John Deere at a John Deere plant in TN.

Now, you can argue that they're not engineered up to the standards of the next level up, the X300 series, or prior 100/200 series of tractors, but don't go around spreading misinformation.

And hey, some people can't pony up 3Gs for a lawn tractor, and for the duty cycle they give it, a Deere half that price will probably be sufficient to their needs. The biggest mistake someone can make is buying the wrong tool for the job. If I were going to be mowing

"Uh, no. The entry-level Deere's are NOT rebadged Murrays. They are made by John Deere at a John Deere plant in TN."

Sorry, made by non-union scabs at the old shuttered Murray plant equals non-John Deere.

I'll bet if he had an LT or LX, or especially a GT or GX, he wouldn't be having all the problems.

If you can't afford brand new, then get used. I bought a used GX with barely 100 hours for the same price as the LA.

Sorry, made by non-union scabs at the old shuttered Murray plant equals non-John Deere.

So, because a worker isn't in a union, his labor is obviously substandard and his effort is dismissable. Spare me the pro-union bigotry. Union-way or no-way is going to give the Chinese your jobs.

I'll bet if he had an LT or LX, or especially a GT or GX, he wouldn't be having all the problems.

I think the point is that he was using a residential mower for commercial purposes, and beating it up (not on purpose) in the process. My LX176 probably wouldn't have fared too well under those conditions, either, despite being made by the sainted hands of Union men and women in the "real" John Deere plant.

In normal, everyday use, you would have to consider that 300 hours is 6-10 years (I put in 33 hrs this year mowing 1/2 an acre weekly from May to November, and plowing in the winter), and odds are that frame cracking are as a result of the abuse a commercial tractor gets.

If you can't afford brand new, then get used. I bought a used GX with barely 100 hours for the same price as the LA.

See, now that's sensible advice. It's usually better to buy a stronger used tool (that's well cared for) than a newer, but less sturdy tool. I bought my LX176 for half what an L or LA series would have cost me, but it should tolerate the work I make it do better (plowing a big driveway in winter, mowing in summer, occasional cart hauling.)

What caught my eye was the hydro failure at 171hrs.....makes me glad I don't own a K46.

Exceptionally young for a tranny to go.

My 6 year old LT155 is still going despite pulling my 250lb bulk around for around 250hours so far mowing, hauling trailer with stone, Core aerating etc.

A used GX for the cost of an LA?Is the serial number still intact?

Most of the JD riders are made by union people in Horicon Wi.

Where are the pics of the broken' frame on your JD ?...my eldest son bought a JD a couple years ago to mow approx 1/3 of his 600' frontage 13 acres deep ...I don't know off hand which model he bought I assume it's the lower end JD...I gather he'll be putting a snow blade on it as he's built his new house so far in from the main paved road...anyhow I'll find out if his frame breaks as yours did........

I have an L120, and have had issues, but not nearly as serious.

I'm at 340 hours on the machine, in just under 3 years of ownership. My tractor does not mow 10 lawns a week, but it also doesn't sit around idling, with the clock counting - while it's doing nothing. When the engine is on, the machine does one of the following:
1. mowing
2. plowing snow
3. pulling aerator (with 200 to 250 lbs load)
4. pulling lawn roller
5. pulling trailer full of mulch, soil, firewood, or kids
6. pulling broadcast spreader (175lb)
7. pulling lawn sprayer (35 gal)
8. pulling a spike-harrow
I even hitched up a road-trailer with 1 yard of gravel on it(can you read: 1 ton), and pulled it around the yard. Did that on 3 occasions.
To add to the abuse: I've rolled the tractor 2 times. Once end over (wheelie) while backing down a ditch and then stopping, and once sideways while traversing a different ditch. The 2'nd roll spilled battery acid all over the frame under the control station.... hosed it off with water a week later (I didn't know it happened until I noticed a week later the battery was dead and I opened the hood to boost it). The paint peeled back, but no rust by the way - the frame is galvanized under the paint.

All that, with a K46.

Now for the list of problems encountered so far:
1. Worn front wheel bushings: replaced with bearings @ 275 hrs.
2. Worn front steering pinion & sector gears: shimmed to tighten up @ 300 hrs + replaced perfectly OK steering links to the replcement ones that are adjustable, so I can adjust toe.
3. Burned out head-lamp @ 300 hrs: replaced
4. Worn drive belt @ 275 hours: replaced
5. Smashed plastic hood (my dad drove it into a brick wall): replaced @ 320 hrs
6. Replaced battery @ 325 hrs

Other things done, even though nothing was broken:
1. Tore apart and re-packed deck spindle bearings @ 200 hrs. (I took them apart out of interest, and found them bone dry). No failures to date
2. Changed tranny oil @ 250 hours
3. New high-lift blades installed at @ 100 hours (for leaf bagging)
4. Added a sleeve hitch this year
5. Loaded tires (front and back): 240 lbs total this year

I hope I remembered it all....

Oh yea - one note: the snow plow mounting brackets install onto the tractor frame in a way that re-inforces the area ahead, over, and behind the front axle mounting point.

So....Mr. Fix_it has a "bad apple".... and I have a "good apple".... how does that play into the entire argument that the L / LA series & K46's are crap?...

Here is what I think:
Although this thread is not at all offensive, and provides good advice (namely: "...buy a good tractor, instead of a bad one..."), I can say with relative ease that for the millions of L/LA series machines JD sold, there are only a handful of people who complain of problems. People that don't have problems don't start discussion threads. Can you imagine a thread with a subject: "300 hours and counting"... with a message body that says: "... nothing to report... everything works..." Pretty boring eh?

One thing I will add.... Mr. Fix_It bought a low-end JD machine, fully well knowing it will see commercial duty. With all due respect, I'd say it's not JD's fault that it broke.

wally2q , I noticed you replaced the steering links with adjustable ones. Which links did you use on yours and wonder if they would work on the LA120? Thanks

the regular part-numbers that came off JDs website parts catalog / breakdown drawings, were the adjustable ones...

in fact what I was going to do is to cut the link, thread the end and thread on a common tie-rod-end on the end. So I ordered 1 spare link, in case I ended up botching it up in the process. When I picked it up, I noticed it was adjustable. So I asked the parts guy to get me the other rod too, he had it in stock, so I put them on, adjusted toe-in, and here I am.

Ok, guys. Here are the pictures of the frame and axle. Sorry I don't have any pictures of it while it was apart. I did not have the camera while I was working on it. I was not able to get a picture of the cracked area of the frame, as it was not a dramatic break as the picture of that red tractor that was going around last year. It looked like only a crack in the paint until I looked very closely. Also, I almost missed the crack in the axle. I consider myself lucky to have found it. It was nearly invisible.

I did not mean to sound like I was bad-mouthing John Deere tractors. I knew full well what this thing was going to be called to do, and expected early failure. Just not quite as soon as this, but hey it is used commercialy. I just posted this here to give those who own one of these a heads-up on what could happen, especially in the frame area. For the homeowner, one of these would be very adaquate and last many years. They are easy to operate and give an excellent cut. They bag well also.

{{gwi:357103}}

{{gwi:357104}}

{{gwi:357105}}
Here you can see where I welded the four gussets in to support the axle channel.

{{gwi:357106}}
This is where I welded the axle crack.

I have a 2000 Scotts S-2048 with a 20 hp twin Kohler Command Pro, 48" deck and Tuff Torq K62 hydro. It is pretty much a Deere GT262 painted orange.

Two things I know for sure:

1) Deere kept making the Scotts and then the L Series JD's cheaper and cheaper each year until they arrived at the price point they wanted. You pretty much get what you pay for, but the earlier models were quite a bargain.

2)Justin3 and Grassmaster show their ignorance when they lump all the L, LA, Scotts and Sabre series together and berate them.

The OP gave a good and honest report on the shortcomings that he encountered with his L118 without slinging mud and wallowing in it. Some other folks would do well to take notice and learn a few things before opening their mouths.

Aye, second that emotion.

I don't have these problems with my GX.

You are welcome.

Nicely put, herringboned28.

Ted

Very interesting. I like it when people keep logs. I have been checking the steering gear bolt tightness on PM and have noticed more deck idler and spindle failures on these- especially the nice clean ones. People like to wash there green tractors I guess. Many times fail in less than 100 hours. The adjustable drag links that come as service parts are a lifesaver when the front end gets punched. Would have been nice if Deere had them on in the 1st place. Good entry level tractor tho. OP seemed to reasonable expectations for his equipment.

Just to clear up the matter of the JD stuff being built in the shuttered Murray plant. The Murray plant was in Lawrenceburg, in south central Tn., south of Nashville and west of I-65. The John Deeres are made in Greeneville, east of Knoxville, between Knoxville and Bristol. These plants are several hundred miles apart, and no way connected.

I agree with "tomplum". JD should have put those adjustable links on in the first place, but I am glad they are available as a service part. I think this winter I will buy the other tie rod and then I can adjust the front end properly. I am starting to get a little toe-out because the other rod is worn. I also priced the front axle via the JD parts web site. It is only $42.99 (PN GY20532BLE), so I will probably replace it too when I get a chance. Also, the frame is available for only $250 (PN GY20660). I am a little worried about whether that weld will hold on the axle, but at the time that was my only option. Does anyone here know much about welding cast iron? But like I said, these are good entry level machines but don't expect then to last under commercial service.

Welding electrodes for cast iron are available in different hardness & strength grades. They all have a "high Nickel content (sometime just called "nickel rods") You can find them at Tractor Supply or any welding supply store. If cast iron needs to be welded, the first question for you to answer is, "Will the welded repair need to be machined (drilled and/or tapped)? If "NO", use the high strength, hard alloy (and "not machineable"). If "YES", use the lower strength ductile grade (at least in the specific spot that will need to be drilled and/or tapped). It is recommended that the crack or break be "VEEed" out by grinding. Pre-heat the area using a torch (propane or MAPP is sufficient). You want it hot enough to "flash boil" a drop of water or spit that contacts it. Once you have pre-heated the metal, begin welding immediately. Start welding in the center of the crack or break at the bottom of the VEE. Weld only about 1" and pause (just long enough to reach for your peening device). Using the pointed end of a "flux chipping hammer" (or better, a pneumatic needle scaler), "peen" the entire length of the weld thoroughly. Next, beginning at either end of the first bead, weld another 1" bead in the opposite direction and as soon as you have laid down that bead, switch to the other end of the first bead and lay in another 1" bead in the opposite direction of bead # 2. The weld is now about 3" long. Pause and peen the entire bead length. If you are welding a component that requires welding to both the front and back sides, this is the time to flip the piece over and begin laying in weld to the back side. Begin your back side weld exactly like the front (first bead in center, next 2 onto the ends of first, peening like a mad man). Use this "alternating" technique through the entire process. If the object cools too much during the welding, warm it again with the torch (you likely won't need to do it unless you get interrupted). If the component is so thick that multiple passes (beads on top of beads) are necessary to fill the VEEs, begin the second layer in the center (same spot as the first bead) as soon as you have welded beads # 1 through 3. If a third layer will be required, begin it as soon as you have laid down approx.5" of weld in the bottom of VEE and approx. 3" of weld in the second layer. Remember to peen and flip the piece (if welding front and back sides. The idea is to start in center and build outward and upward gradually. Peening (or needle scaler) helps defeat stresses that develope at the juncture of deposit metal and base metal. The final bead surface should ideally be "crowned" a bit higher than the surface plane of the base metal (1/16" to 1/8" is good) and have no "undercut" at the edge of bead (where deposit metal transits to base metal on the final bead) Allow the object to cool in still air and never, never, quench with water.

I used an alloy rod called "arcalloy". We use it to weld stainless steel wear liners into cast steel rail car components. In doing so we are always told to preheat the area, peen the weld, and let it cool slowly. I applied this same technique to my cast iron axle. The weld area is only a little more than an inch long. I veed the crack almost through, then I preheated the area with the cutting torch. I welded the whole crack in one pass, but it was short. I peened the first side, then flipped it and welded the otherside in the same manner before it cooled. Then I allowed it to sit on the bench till it was cold. So, do you think it will hold? I don't have a lot of experience in welding cast, so I tried to do what I thought would be best. Also, someone told me the color of the sparks made by the grinder was important. Some cast will produce red sparks, some orange I'm told. This piece produced hot orange sparks just like mild steel plate.

fixit, the method and electrode you used will probably hold as well as anything. The axle is cast from ductile iron (I read that in this forum, posted by a Deere foundry worker I think). The orange sparks are consistent with that. The "arc-alloy" rod is probably as suitable for this application as any of the "nickel rods" I cited. In fact, I just went back and re-read your original post and the details of how you affected the repair to the cracked axle was pretty much identical to my suggestions except for you welding all of one side at once before flipping it to do the opposite side. Since it is such a small welded area and that you properly pre-heated, I doubt that it matters on your axle. The peening is as critical as pre-heating. One bit of FYI in case you need it sometime: You can use that "Arc-alloy" electrode to attach "mild steel" to cast iron as well. For welding mild steel (such as the frame) I recommend an E7018 or E7018AC rod. It's a 70,000 psi tensile alloy, all position rod. It's best to store all your welding rods in a "rod oven" (if you are able to). I have alternatively used this "trick" at times. If you have a welding project planned (as in knowing ahead of time that you will be welding), put the (estimated) quantity of rods needed on a cookie pan lined with aluminum foil and bake them in a conventional oven at 350 degrees for at least 30 minutes. Don't have any food items in there at the same time (because when food is cooked it exudes water vapor, and water is what you are trying to get rid of here). Take the rods out and begin welding. This will greatly improve the way they weld and yield a better finish than if you just grab a rod that has been in the box exposed to natural humidity. It will also produce a stronger weld as it reduces the entraining of hydrogen into the deposit metal (hydrogen comes from the separation of water molecules (H2O) into the constituent hydrogen and oxygen molecules by the heat of the arc). Keep up the good work.

Thanks for the advice, mownie. I was trying to figure out the type of iron that the axle was made of. Anyway, funny how you should mention welding mild steel to that axle. If you go back and read my first post again, I did just that. On the outer ends of the axle, where it rubs on the frame, it has very little bearing surface and was worn considerably. I welded approxamately a 2"x2"1/2" plate into the I-beam on each end. Of course I used the same method I just described. I guess I didn't do too bad, then. I may just let it ride and see if it holds. As for the frame it was welded with 7018 3/32 rods. Normally I use 1/8, but the 3/32 seemed to be a better fit here. We keep (well usually, anyway) the 7018 in an oven. Some people like to turn it off for whatever reason, but I try to turn it back on if I notice it is cold. At home I only have an AC welder (Lincoln 230 amp tombstone). I like to use 7018AC with it. If not I'll use 6011 or 6013, but I like the 7018AC the best.

Son of a gun! I guess I try to read too fast sometimes! Somehow I misread it and thought you had welded some STAINLESS STEEL plate to the axle (which would have been OK too, pricey, yes, but OK). I have the AC/DC version of the Lincoln "tombstone".

Where did this Deere manufactured by Murray urban legend start anyway? My blood boils every time I see someone post that because it has no basis whatsoever in fact. Next thing someone here will claim the Deere L and LA series tractors are made by aliens from another planet who happened to ride a meteor into Mexico or something equally silly.

Mownie,
I think I'm going to print off your responses and stick them in my toolbox. Good stuff!

Thanks marineguy, Semper Fi, sir, and have a great Thanksgiving. It's because of guys like you, doing what you do, that we all are able to have a country to be thankful in and thankful for.

davidld

Where did this Deere manufactured by Murray urban legend start anyway? My blood boils every time I see someone post that because it has no basis whatsoever in fact.

People spouting off completely wrong information on the internet? That's impossible! :)

I have a L130 - similar - same front axle. My axle (mowing 2 acres country plot, snow blowing with 48" blower) has snapped 2 times. I tried nickle rods to weld it first time, but at about 50 bucks it was too much work to do and did not hold. I just ordered the 2nd axle, but will probably make my own axle soon from square tube steel. Should not be too hard to do, and probably will cut off the spindles and weld them into the tube. The rest is just drilling. Might line the pivot hole with another steel tube too. Anyway, the cast iron used is pretty close to pot metal, and is about as cheap as it comes. I think Deere only makes the axle and the dealers actually claim their Cast Iron axles are stronger than average lawn tractors. Ha ha ha. My old Sears and Murray had tube steel axles which never had a problem in years of use at the same property. I wont bother talking about eh TuffTorq tranny - another too little and too light thing deere did to make more money on this tractor. This shows what kind of management Deere has, and personally I would never buy another deere. I sure dont want to put 10,000$ into a green lawn mower just because its supposed to be good. For 10k$ I could have a machine shop make me one that is actually good.

Sorry about my rant, but this lawn tractor has to go.

I bought my John Deere L118 from a local John Deere dealer 3 or 4 years ago.. I have to replace the mower deck belt every year as it stretches out after half a dozen mows. I also got a snow blade. Now the frame, snow blade mount & front axle are now bent to the point where I have to disassemble it, straighten it & weld reinforcements into it. I'm selling it this year & buying a Husqvarna. I'm done with green stuff...

Well my L118 has almost 600 hours with very average maintenance done. I've replaced the drive and deck belts, and the spindles. Other than that no problems. I have found that the "stock" battery is no where near the required amps for cranking the v-twin. I'm satisfied with mine.

My L118 has been a good machine for my half acre lawn. I've replaced the deck bearings at 140 hours. I've had it for going on five years and that is the only real repair it's needed. Otherwise, regular oil and filter changes, one battery and hose off the top and bottom of the deck with each use. My yard is not particularly smooth either. The 42" deck does an excellent job of mowing. I put about 50 hours a year on it, just mowing, and I have no complaints.

I did recently buy a 318 that will replace the L118, but that was not due to any issue with the L118. I just wanted a garden tractor to blow snow, and I wanted the ability to add a tiller at some point in time. The 318 is a tractor, whereas the L118 is a lawn mower. If you keep that in mind, the L118 is a fine little machine.