I don't have a schematic.
Typical crank circuit will be from the S terminal of the ignition switch, through the clutch/brake switch (pedal must be depressed) through the PTO/attachment switch (must be OFF) to the solenoid.

You didn't state if you were getting ANY noises or what??

Also check the fuse.

Have you tried giving the deck lever a tug back while cranking? Linkage/ gate wear sometimes keeps the deck switch from fully engaging. Sometimes the mount tab for the clutch switch bends and does the same thing. Solenoid grounded? If you jump to the small terminal on the solenoid- does it crank then? MTD parts shows a basic schematic for your testing pleasure...

Here is a link that might be useful: MTD parts

Fuse is good, I dont know the correct way to check the brake and PTO switch but what I did was us a multimeter and pushed the switch and seen a off/on reading. Same with the ignition switch, I put a meter on the switch and seen a connect/disconnect reading on the pins as I turned the key.

Since you have a meter-

See if you have 12V going to the SMALL wire that attaches to the solenoid when the key is in the crank position.

You can jumper 12V direct to that small terminal and the engine should crank. IF it cranks, the solenoid, starter & battery are good.
The solenoid must be grounded by the mounting bolts.

That schematic also showa a reverse switch.

Here is a non- broken link...
Happy New Year!

Here is a link that might be useful: MTD parts

Where is the reverse switch located? I wasnt getting any power to the small wire going to the selenoid when the key was turned. I will try jumping 12V to the small wire today and see if I am getting power to the S terminal on the ignition. I tested the selenoid with it secured to the frame so I am sure that is was grounded. Keep the suggestions comming..Thanks

I would expect the reverse switch would be located (if it has one) where it would be activated by a lever you moved when the mower was placed in reverse?

Thinking about that though, I think that just kills the spark.

"I will try jumping 12V to the small wire today and see if I am getting power to the S terminal on the ignition."
That's kind of backwards- You should see if you are getting 12V TO the S terminal of the key switch when in the crank position.
When in the crank position, the B (Battery) terminal is connected to the S (Solenoid) terminal.
IF you pull the plug off the back of the switch, you can test those terminals for continuity when in the crank position.

"I tested the selenoid with it secured to the frame so I am sure that is was grounded."
BYPASSING the solenoid is NOT testing it!
Jumping 12V to the small terminal IS! That eliminates about 1/2 the things that may be causing the problem!

Thanks Bill on the good info, man I love this site just when you think you know a little something about working on mowers someone always gives you a little more smarts. I wasnt able to work on it today (took family on a road trip) or tomorrow (bowling league) but Saturday I will use what you typed and post my findings.

Hard to troubleshoot if we don't know what you have? we have to know if it's hydro or elect PTO or manual at minumum. Most of us except bill won't look up model numbers to find diagrams to figure out what you have. So it best to describe exactly what you have. Even with good information we are just guessing IMO. I usually start with the stuff that gets the most use also? IMO most likely they will wear or or break first.

First thing I would do is check the fuse and make sure the engine is not locked up, next I would remove the starter and make sure it spins with jumping from a battery (+ to post on starter and - grounded to side of starter) with a good battery it should spin like crazy with no load on it. now you know the battery and starter will spin. Next jump around the Solenoid and igntion switch and switches. it should spin the engine over. if not, check out the battery cables and grounds.

hear is my guesses or order of elimations after the starting system has been elimated may help and may not?.

First off you should have three or four switches, seat switch, clutch/brake switch, electPTO/manual lever switch and some new models a reverse backup switch the kills the deck. These switches are on or off switches like a light switch. either they are in the on position or off and when the plunger is activated it puts the switch in the other position (Ground or no ground).

IMO the two main switches that causes the tractor to do nothing are the seat switch and the clutch switch. Then the PTO switch providing you didn't leave it in the on position.

The seat switch kills the engine when the other switches are in the run position (if you fall off the tractor it kills the engine) This would be the first switch I would check first. if it is broke or stuck in the off position the engine will not do nothing not even click

next I would check the clutch/PTO switch. If this switch is left on or broke in the on position the engine will not do nothing not even click.

Now the brake/clutch switch does the same thing if this switch is broken, loose, or stuck and not making contact when you depress the clutch in conjunction with the seat switch the engine won't so nothing not even click. If you Butt comes off the seat while you are depressing the clutch the engine won't so nothing not even click. I know this cause my wife is short and if I don't adjust the seat all the way up she can't depress the clutch'brake far enough to get the engine to spin over.

Your not out of the woods yet, even if the all the switches apear good and you have bypassed the ignition switch you may have a chafed,smashed, broken wire some where. This is why I usually remove the deck and any top covers to expose the wiring harness. I inspect and follow the wires to each switch and to and from the switches, ignition, and starting system wiring. Basiclly you got to go over every wire and look for chafes or broken wires.

If that don't find anything now you got to take a multimeter and ohm or ever wire to ensure it's not broken under the insulation. I leave this as a last resort, you should of found something by now in most cases. Good luck

"Hard to troubleshoot if we don't know what you have?"
He stated what he had in the SECOND sentence of his post!

He already stated the engine cranks when he jumps the solenoid!
WHY on earth would he want to remove the starter motor to see if it spins?

What does the seat switch have to do with cranking? Especially when you have trouble identifying WHAT machine Zoomie has?

Is it your problem! then don't worry about it. If he don't like what I posted he don't have to read it and you don't either. I'll post want I want unless the person that's paying for this forum tells me otherwise.

Great answer! Just because the starter spins the engine when the solenoid is "jumpered" does not mean the starter is working.....right? In fact...that entire post is a classic.

thought I might add Beings it "spins like a top" could if be it's not getting gas or spark???????????? or the valves?? oh I have to know what engine it has??? I guess I should know that being it's a MTDbaabaabaaa.

Your right bill I have trouble identifing what he has and "turn over" don't tell me much.

Mowie I didn't get spins out of "turns over"

Well the problem is solved...now to get it running but thats easier than electrical.
The problem turned out to be the lever for the deck where it compresses the kill switch was worn and was not pressing all the way down. I took a cresent wrench and bent the metal tab back about 1/4 inch and wamo!! It may have taken me a day to find it but I learned crap loads about the electrical system. The starter was sticking but that was a squirt of white spray lube to fix. The carb problem is the jet O'ring seat is deteorated away and nothing open today to buy one...Thanks for all the info from everyone..

rcmoser, you are right to point out about "spins", but I just did not think I should assume he meant the engine was turning upside down. I suppose he could have meant the solenoid was turning upside down when he jumpered it. :^)

Nothing like the knowledge you gain from fixing something yourself, glad you got it going, next time it will be much easier...I had that switch made of out plastic on AYP mowers break off.

Mowie, Aaaaaaaaaaa but does it "turn over" fast enough to start??? my old 8N turns over but rarely fast enough to start it. In his case guess so he got it going.

Aaaaaah hah. Now we get to the cranking RPM. Just kidding. We all know that there is not much recognition or useage of "standard defect terminology" outside the mechanics circle. All too often we see or hear someone say, "It won't crank" when it is actually "cranking" but it doesn't run. Or...."It won't fire up" when really it does not crank or "turn over". I have sometimes been forced to go through a near interrogation with the customer or operator many times just to make sure he/she actually means what they are telling me. It gets worse when you get the story "second handed" from a non-mechanic service writer who got it from the non-mechanic mother that brought her daughter's car in for repairs because "something" makes a "funny noise" sometimes when you are "turning a certain way". :^)

Using the usefull information to get that Huskee up and running, I will use that same information to try and get my Craftsman back into action. Thanks to all who supplied answers

Hi, I have Huskee with power? engine. It has been running just fine. I parked it and next day it would spin fast (really fast with boosting from car) but wouldn't crank. Where do I start troubleshooting? Thanks

we need to know.. did you do the basic checks? enough fuel, controls all set correctly before attempting to start, choke full on before start, sitting firmly in seat so seat safety sw engaged, clutch/brake pedal fully depressed, PTO off, etc., etc. ..?

If all that OK, next step is with help of assistant remove engine air cleaner and spray several shots of rattlecan carb cleaner (available at auto parts store) directly into carb throat while assistant is cranking engine.

If engine tries to start or "pops", problem is lack of fuel delivery. if not, prob is ignition or mechanical internal to the engine.

Post back with results from above and mebbe we can go from there.

yoo-hoo, Corine...