Sand and "topsoil" are simply more of the mineral portion of soil and you would need to change the total of your soil, probably several hundred feet deep, by mixing in 45 percent of those materials into what you have. However, if you concentrate on amending the top foot of your soil with organic matter, that would be compost and other forms of vegetative waste, the Soil Food Web would take care of the rest. Work on bringing the amount of organic matter of the soil to around 6 to 8 percent.

You are working way too hard at this.

I went from desert clay dirt to decent garden soil in a couple of years with zero digging. I used a pickaxe to make holes for the first plants (okra, eggplant and chilis), mulched them heavily and installed a drip irrigation system.

I keep adding mulch on top as it vanishes. When plants die, I cut them off at ground level and leave the root system intact to rot and add organic matter. I can dig anywhere in that area with a trowel now.

Yo probably can't grow okra, but there must be some deep-rooted annuals you can grow.

I have blueberry and raspberry plants that are too close to my leeching field where the soil is sandy mostly, with a clay edge. I have been trying to add sulfur to the soil by putting micronized wetable sulfur around the plants. I wonder if anyone has tried that to change the ph of the soil? It hasn't seemed to hurt them, but they didn't do very well this year either - after my fall treatment last year. I just put more on this time - and then thought to check here.

Sue, what does a good reliable soil test tell you that soils pH is and how much sulfur to add to change that pH to what those plants may need?