Time-
get what you already added out of the system
then decide if you really need to fool mother nature.
Said by someone who has been trying to get up the energy to drive five miles to HD or Lowe's and load up the truck with sulphur and milorganite and maybe some other supplements.
Why-bored,like to spend money,justify keeping a pickup and the innate need to feel loved and needed by my plants[really the innermost me].
why not-they doin fine.Just came in from making the rounds and maybe MvH is a little pale everything else has the right color and leaf size for that particular plant.

I wouldn't do anything until the test comes back. You will learn a lot from it including whether to trust your pH meter. They will make specific recommendations. Follow instructions for taking the sample-- there are many pages on the web about this.

What people in the South usually use is dolomite limestone, which has calcium and magnesium in reasonable balance. These elements are usually needed in acid Piedmont clays and sandy soils. A couple of people in Appalachia have reported soils high in magnesium and low in calcium. For these unusual soils you should not use dolomite (or epsom salts). The faster acting material is true lime or slaked lime, which is calcium oxide. It will burn your skin. You don't need to be in a rush, since your roses are growing OK.

Thanks, Michael. I won't do anything until I get the test back--detailed instructions came with the kit and it'll go to Virginia Tech for analysis. I have two kits--I'm planning on filling one with soil from beds and and one with container soilless mix since I have lots of container roses. I see chlorosis in beds and containers, about the same ratio.

My roses are growing quite well--well, except for the ones that have had the life sucked out of them by spider mites, but they're trying to put out new growth. The choloris is only in the new growth on some roses and I have lots of new growth and buds coming along on almost every one.

I realize I left out an important fact: almost all of my beds are raised and filled with bagged topsoil/composted manure. They've been in place for years so I just assumed *everyone* knows it and I forgot to mention it ;-) I mulch with shredded leaves and add compost as I have it. Only one bed is a combination of native red clay and bagged topsoil.

Thanks again,
Barbara

In the future, remember, east of the Mississippi river soils tend to be slightly acid, in the mountains and west, slightly alkaline. In the east you have very high hills even though they are called mountains.
Also, never fool with your soil until AFTER you get a soil test.

Well, it will be really interesting to see how a pile of manure aged five years and presumably fertilized rates out on a soil test. I daresay you will have plenty of phosphorus.

I'm another fan of the soils test. Chlorosis is a generalized symptom that can have a lot of causes and many cures. A good recommendation will resolve a lot of soil balance issues with as few amendments as possible.

Another way to raise the pH without using dolomite lime (and without adding magnesium if the soil doesn't need it) is to use oyster shell lime, $8 for 55 lbs , Calcium carbonate.

Thanks, all. I have the samples ready to go tomorrow.

Barbara