Software
Houzz Logo Print
jeremyjs_gw

leaf mulch or compost

18 years ago

I was just curious what everyone thought was the better use of leaves. Mulching them into the lawn or composting them. I realize that having enough for both would be ideal, but I don't really have enough for that.

Comments (19)

  • 18 years ago

    I'd compost them.

  • 18 years ago

    There is no "better" because both are excellent uses of those renewable resources. Maybe some day, when everyone composts, there might be a shortage of available leaves and then a choice may need to be made, but given the quantity available today you need not make that choice, yet.

  • 18 years ago

    Yeah I guess I'll just mulch mine into the lawn and pester my neighbors about taking their leaves.

  • 18 years ago

    I do both. Mainly I use them as mulch, when everything is mulched, the rest go into the compost. And I set aside a can or two of shredded leaves to use when I need more browns periodically during the year.

  • 18 years ago

    I would put them in the compost. Bag the leaves with the mower so that they get chopped up. Some small bits will be left behind in the grass. The best thing for grass is a high nitrogen fertilizer (which would include high nitrogen organic material). Lawns are nothing like gardens and the practices for keeping a nice lawn are different. So, your garden will appreciate the compost much more than your lawn will appreciate the mulched leaves.

    Now, this is all based on the common suburbian concept of a "nice lawn". Do you want that pristine lawn? I don't particularly and so I don't worry about what stays behind. My neighbor does, though, so he should be bagging his leaves and giving them to me and mulching his grass. Mulching the grass throughout the growing season is the equivalent of one nitrogen fertilizer application according to the master gardener class I recently finished. They seem to concentrate a lot more on lawn care than vegetable gardening for some reason.

  • 18 years ago

    Turf grass needs 2 pounds of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year. Most "high Nitrogen" fertilizers supply way more than that and most of that simply flows out of the soil with the excess water and causes pollution, those nitrates in the water you drink. Mulch mowing the grass clippings, putting them right back into the soil, can provide 1/2 that needed Nitrogen, or 1 pound of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year. Putting down more than the needed 2 pounds of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year is largely a waste of your money.

  • 18 years ago

    I suggest mulching them to the grass and then grabbing bags from the curb for your compost.

    At least that is my game plan...

  • 18 years ago

    Kimmsr and I actually agree on something! The only thing is, this thread is not about mulching just grass clippings so you'll have to think of this: Mulching your leaves into your yard will essentially eliminate the point of mulching your grass for a nitrogen source. That nitrogen will be tied up in the process of breaking down the dead leaves and grass and you will be applying more fertilizer for a "nice" lawn. Also the dead material will not allow as much air exchange for the grass roots. And if you put down any lawn pesticides you are going to slow that breakdown process by a lot as you disturb the soil food web. So, if you use man made chemical means to manage your lawn, don't mulch leaves. Oh, and you can always spread finished compost on a lawn. That's a lot better than mulching the leaves. I don't like to use pesticides or fertilizers on my lawn, personally. Again, this all depends on the type of lawn you strive for.

  • 18 years ago

    I've mulched mowed leaves into the soil (in HUGE amounts) for over 35 years now. The lawn is absolutely thriving.

    However, I do fertilize with alfalfa pellets and/or soybean meal (and sometimes Milorganite if it is on sale).

    The lawn "eats" those leaves up usually by spring and we're rewarded with a lush, thick, healthy lawn every year.

    I also spray with blackstrap molasses every month but don't know if that is really necessary. I get the stuff for only $5.00 a gallon, so what the heck! LOL!!

    So you can do both, either compost and/or mulch mow into the lawn directly IMHO.

    Btw, I started mulch mowing my neighbor's neglected lawn with his fallen leaves for two years now. The lawn looks better than it ever did in the past. (He has alot of leaves.)

  • 18 years ago

    Here's a link to a summary discussing the three famous studies conducted on the effects of mulch mowing leaves into our lawns.

    The studies showed nitrogen fertilizer didn't help much with decomposition and that the carbon/nitrogen ratio didn't change much when applying nitrogen fertilizer anyways. (I spray with a little blackstrap molasses but it isn't necessary.)

    If you ever had any doubts about the benefits of mulch mowing leaves into the soil, these three studies should alleviate those doubts. No need to add anything, just let Mother Nature take its course over the winter.

    The leaves will decompose well and will do your lawns a "favor".

    http://www.grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_maintenance_leaves_turn_litter/

  • 18 years ago

    Long after I discovered the benefits of mulching leaves into the turf Joe Vargas' turf grass students did some research at Michigan State Universities Turf Grass school, I think in the 1980's, so I am glad to see that the school is still doing that kind of research. I just wish they would make the information more readily available.

  • 18 years ago

    Well, of course the nitrogen isn't going to affect the decomposition of leaves on the studies you present, rdak. The studies were done on grass of and under the conditions of golf courses if those are the studies I'm familiar with. You know, the grass that probably gets the most pesticides and fungicides on the planet. The nitrogen doesn't do the breaking down in cold compost environments such as lawns or greens. It aids the fungus that breaks down those leaves. The fungus usually destroyed or inhibited greatly by the fungicides applied to high maintenance turf areas. Plus, the guy that wrote the article specializes (and even has authored a book) in golf course maintenance, so that leads me to believe it's the same studies, too. If he included all info, which he didn't nor did he claim to, then I would be blasting the article for a complete ignorance of using the scientific method for a truly scientific study. Unless you manage your lawn like a golf course, then the first two studies aren't for you. Further indication that the first two studies were on high maintenance areas would be that in paragraph 8 where he states that the third study was different because it was on a low maintenance area. As far as the third study, I'm curious how many studies use the words "tend" as a measurable observation and how one quantifies this. Since he did the study (not mentioned int he article, I noticed) and provided good detail in the rest, one is definitely left to assume that "tended to green-up quicker" was a personal opinion that couldn't be presented in a factual manner.

    When I said "chemical means to manage your lawn", keep in mind I was specifically speaking of the fungicides and pesticides that people use to keep a golf course type, or pristine as I put it, lawn. The grass doesn't eat the leaves. The leaves don't eat themselves. Magic doesn't exist (as far as I know). And if you kill those things that do the eating then you are just creating dust that gets picked up by the wind, which could explain Nikolai's findings concerning no C/N changes to be concerned with. The other explanation, which is much more obvious, is that he fails to mention the organisms found in the soil. A simple lack of one organism or another will completely change how materials are broken down and what nutrients are deposited/left behind.

    Rdak, the point isn't whether or not mulching leaves is bad. You just won't have a golf course green if you do it without added fertilizer. Nikolai made that clear in the article that the turf in the last study wasn't that type of turf. It's more like park turf or my yard, which isn't pristine at all but is still what I consider a nice lawn. The question was concerning which is better, mulching them or composting them? Composting.

  • 18 years ago

    The MSU studies were performed at turfgrass testing sites. Not on golf courses. None of the plots tested were in any way similar to high maintenance golf course type plots.

    They were (1) plots with no fertilizers, weed treatments etc., and (2) plots with your "typical" fertilizer and broadleaf weed applications (i.e., your typical "homeowner" type of plots).

    The results were, in part, microbe activity increased in the plots, organic matter increased, thatch was not a problem, etc. The MSU study concluded there were no negatives associated with leaf mulch mowing, and there were multiple positive benefits.

    However, some nitrogen fertilizer was recommended for decomposition of the leaves and for general overall maintenance of our lawns. Something most of us do either organically or chemically.

    Is composting leaves better? Depends what you want to do with the end product. If you want to improve your lawn, just mow them into the lawn with your mulching mower. Organic matter will be increased along with increased beneficial microbe activity.

    That's what the MSU studies concluded. The organic matter from mulch mowing the leaves would eventually become part of the soil foodweb. So, I wouldn't waste my time composting the leaves then spreading them back over the lawn as finished leaf compost. Unnecessarily redundant IMHO. Remember, you'll be mulching the grass clippings also, kind of a lasagna compost IMHO (i.e., without wood chips/branches though).

    Nothing wrong with composting leaves then adding them back to the lawn but this is not necessary.

    Is composting them better for the purpose of putting them back on the lawn? No.

  • 18 years ago

    Here's an excerpt of the Purdue University study (same "ordinary" types of plots as with the bulk of the MSU studies):

    * Results. We found that even the high rate of tree leaves had no effect on turf visual quality, color or growth. Although we expected tree leaves to tie up nitrogen in the soil, we saw no long-term effects of tree leaves on turf growth regardless of the nitrogen rate we applied (other than the original plots that received no nitrogen at all). Other studies have shown short-term nitrogen depletion as the tree leaves break down. However, we feel this would not be a problem in most areas because fall fertilization of the turf will almost certainly ensure adequate nitrogen for the grass plants.

    We also suspected long-term nitrogen depletion would increase diseases such as red thread, pink patch and dollar spot, but we saw no increase in these diseases regardless of leaf or nitrogen treatment. No differences in weed infestation occurred, regardless of treatments.

    No substantial buildup of leaf mat occurred in the soil, though you might expect this to occur after many years of leaf mulching. However, we did see an increase in microbial activity caused by mulching the tree leaves, which apparently prevented the leaf mat from accumulating.

    The increased microbial activity is perhaps the most interesting finding of this study. Increased soil microbial activity indicates improved soil quality. Therefore, we expect that the heavy clay soils on which many new subdivisions are now built should improve as the trees mature and their leaves are mulched into the turf.

    Our data suggested an increase in water-infiltration rates. This data was not conclusive but, combined with the increased soil microbial activity, suggests mulching tree leaves improves soil properties.

    We observed no effect on nutrient availability or pH in the soil. However, we were applying maple leaves with a basic pH to a fertile silt-loam soil with significant buffering capacity. Theory and practical experience tell us that if low-pH leaves, such as oak, are mulched into a poorly buffered soil, such as sand, the pH may decrease significantly after many years of leaf mulching. Of course, corrective measures such as lime applications can counteract this.

  • 18 years ago

    Last fall I mulch mowed a leaf pile about 6 inches thick onto a grassy area that was having a difficult time growing, sandy, well drained soil. A friend came over a looked at what I did and saw that the soil in that area was brown with the shredded leaves. This fall he came over and again we looked at that same area and he commented that there were no signs of any leaves but that the grass looked thcker and greener than it did last fall, after a summer of very little rain and this area gets no supplemental water. A soil test of this area indicated that the soil pH was 7.2 and that there was too much Phosphorus to use any lawn food containing Phosporus. Several years back when I grew sweet corn there the soil pH was 5.7 and there was a very low level of Phosphorus and required large volumes of compost and manure to grow that sweet corn.

  • 18 years ago

    Thanks for all of the replies. I did end up bagging and composting. I figure I'm starting a couple raised beds next spring and they could use the leaves more than the lawn which is in pretty good shape. It could use a good dethatching and core aerating more than anything next spring.

  • 17 years ago

    Holy cow leaves really compost fast. I put my leaves in Sunday and I got a bunch of leaves from my parents yesterday for an approximate shredded volume of about 3 cubic yards. I added a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer and soaked it with a hose to get it cooking. I noticed a really strong leaf decaying smell when I went out and looked at the bin after work so I dug around a little and the whole pile was already quite warm. I just went outside and noticed steam wafting out of the bin. Oh and the bin was totally full yesterday a and now it's compacted down about 6in. That's just really wild.

  • 17 years ago

    Yes Jeremy, those leaves are good stuff. Good luck!

    Here's an article on leaves you guys/gals might find interesting:

    http://www.spectrumanalytic.com/support/library/ff/Plant_Nutrients_in_Municipal_Leaves.htm

  • 17 years ago

    I make decisions based on current needs, labor, time, and what's available on the curb, and all these might be different in different years. So look at all your own yard stuff as potential resources, and deploy them to your best advantage.

    I might mow-mulch leaves that are on the lawn because that's a fast and easy way to clean up, but vacuum and shred the ones on the deck; I've been know to rake and curb a few bags when I'm just too short on time and energy to shred (it does take longer) and I needed to clean up an area fast, and then nab someone else's finely shredded leaves ( yes, we know where those folks live--some people have really good shredders and use those convenient clear plastic bags.) If mine go to the city compost and his go into my yard, I figure it's an okay trade. If I'm starting a new bed I put my shredded leaves directly on the spot, or add as many as I can to existing beds to "compost in place" and save labor; I have compost areas for stuff that I don't have a current use for or if I find the mother lode of curbside shredded leaves I can't resist.