I think it's a good plan. Low/No nitrogen Pre-M as your first spring application is the way to go. In the meantime, introduce as much organic material as you can into your lawn. Bill Hill

I've noticed that Bill gives good advice.

Last year I experimented with urea 46-0-0 as a late fall application and had excellent results. I'll put it down again this week...I need more data points.

-Deerslayer

What is the conventional wisdom with preemergent. Having never used it before, and having not followed the forum as closely in April, I am wondering what the best "plan" is. I am still debating whether or not to stay the course with the organics - or to break free from it just to apply preemergent.

Last year, I had a bit of a crabgrass issue, but a pretty extensive broadleaf problem, mainly something that looked like Creeping Charlie as well as spurge. If I decide to go the preemergent route, I really want to do it right. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Rutgers, I believe you have fertilized mostly organically this year and have your lawn in real good shape. If you buy into cutting it at 4 inches and continue good watering practices, You will not need the pre-M. Do keep your little bottle of weed-be-gone in case you loose your weed hound or Charlie comes to visit. Thank you Deerslayer for the kind words. Bill Hill

Last year I experimented with urea 46-0-0 as a late fall application and had excellent results. I'll put it down again this week...I need more data points.

At what rate did you apply your urea? I think I read somewhere that it should be applied something like 1lb N per 1000ft2. Does this sound correct?

"I think I read somewhere that it should be applied something like 1lb N per 1000ft2. Does this sound correct?"

That's correct. Note that it takes very little 46-0-0 to get 1 lb per 1k sq ft (just over 2 lbs of urea gets 1 lb of N).

> Posted by deerslayer Z5 NE IL KBG (My Page) on
Mon, Nov 5, 07 at 18:05

Last year I experimented with urea 46-0-0 as a late fall application and had excellent results. I'll put it down again this week
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Hey neighbor, getting cold tonight!

> I think I read somewhere that it should be applied something like 1lb N per 1000ft2
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But gentlemen, do understand that certain cultivars, like my Merion Bluegrass, LOVE nitrogen ... 6 to 8lbs /1000ft2 each year. So the 1lb/1000ft2 is not a concrete rule. One could put a little more down in fall, since there is no risk of burning. See link.

Here is a link that might be useful: November fertilization is critical for turf performance next year

When I figure 1lb N per 1000ft2 it comes to 2.17lbs 46-0-0 per 1000ft2. I have TTTF so I'll probably stick to this. I'm shooting for a Thanksgiving weekend application. Reading the above article only reinforces this. Thanks guys!

Thanks, Gary--that's a great link!

Younger lawns feed more heavily as well. I replaced mine and if you were to project the amount I added through the year I'd be around 8 lbs per thousand square feet.

I plan on six to seven next year while the grass builds itself. After that, I can flex down to four to six.