What are the recommendations ? Any?

From what I have gathered , most garden plants prefer slightly acid soil over base. For example pH of 6.8 is optimum. But then most also can thrive in pH range of 6.4 to 7.2 well.

But you have to read your plants. If they are doing fine, then that is all it counts. JMO

This appears to be a Logan Labs Soil Report. If it is, you can plug that data into Grow Abundant Gardens OrganiCalc Worksheet at http://growabundant.com/organicalc/ and it will tell you which mineral amendments and the amount needed to balance your soil.

A soil pH of 7.1, with the optimum in the 6.2 to 6.8 range, and an organic matter level of about 13 percent, with optimum in the 6 to 8 percent range, that soil looks to be in fairly good condition . I would add nothing to that soil until the end of the next growing season and then only organic matter as needed to replace what was used up during that growing season.

Thank you for your replies

Because of a recommendation coming from this forum, I got Steve Soloman's book "The Intelligent Gardener" (from our local library) and did my first ever soil test (from Logan Labs)

I posed an open question about what the reader might think about the test results to get various opinions. Soloman's recommendations are well documented in his book, but he freely admits that his opinions have greatly changed over the years and doubtless might change many times more before he himself reverts to compost.

I have approx. 600 sq. feet of raised beds that have received lot of OM in the last 8 years mostly in the form of compost (which I make) I have also added cottonseed meal, rock phosphate and (dolomite) lime each spring in small quantities. I have had some crop failures, but I would say that my garden grows very well.

About three winters ago, I spread wood ash (from our only heat source) over the beds. I now think that that was a mistake. I wonder if the higher than desired pH might be a result of that or possibly from the (small amount) of lime that was added??? No more ash or lime...but will skipping adding OM this Spring also bring the pH down???

Except for Sulfur and Sodium, my deficiencies are so small it seems unnecessary to add grams (or fractions of grams) to try to achieve better results.

Are you readers fans of Azomite? Azomite is over 50% silica oxide (quartz). Not sure if this will help my garden. More bang for my buck using some other product???

I think if I could get the pH down...my garden might be happier!

Thanks!

Looks good. Phosphorous is high. Been liberal with manure in the last few years?

The lime and wood ash probably contributed to your slightly high pH so discontinuing their use is a good idea. If I were you I would continue adding OM as I doubt that would cause a change in pH. As for Azomite, I use it -- seaweeds added to your compost pile might be an alternative.

glib...

have not put manure on the garden or in the compost for at least three or four years.

I was thinking the excess phosphorous might be coming from the rock phosphate(?) I am not using that much though. Solomon suggests putting the RP into a working compost heap. I have a half of a sack left from last summer, so I am doing that as I build a new pile. I will not be adding any directly to the garden.

hejerry...

I have thought about seaweed. I am only an hour from the coast and I have a pick up truck. I wonder if anyone sells seaweed over there and would load it. I will check into that!

I'm not really a beach person but when I do go over there, just less than an hour from the house, I always take along a handful of garbage bags and if there's seaweed on the beach I bring back a few bags for my compost pile. It's pretty easy to gather and stuff into garbage bags but be advised that it gets heavy and stinks too. Unless you have a rather large compost pile, a pickup truck load at one time might be a bit much thus you might want to try my method. Some folks recommend that it be washed before adding to the compost pile but I never do.

i would do absolutely nothing to that soil. the P will go down in time. you might get chlorosis, due to the combination of high P and slightly alkaline soil, but only if you have things, such as grapes, which are sensitive to it.

The pH of the soil here, Lake Michigan beach sand, went from 5.2 to 7.2 over a few years simply by adding organic matter, compost, shredded leaves, etc,