My first question is what kind of drainage do the pots they're in now have? If there isn't drainage that water is all just sitting in the bottom of the pot and the roots are swimming. Roses hate that. If there is good drainage then just stop watering them and let them dry out some. You won't save the leaves that have already yellowed but you will save the plant. If there is no drainage then get them out of those pots and into drier soil immediately.

I've never heard of such a watering procedure myself. I do water my pots until I see some water coming out of the drainage holes but that's it. Once I see it draining I know it's been well watered and move on to the next pot. That also allows me to know that the drainage holes are open and functioning properly. If I'm watering a lot and no water is showing up I tip the pot and use a stick to open the drainage holes so it will flow freely again. On the other hand if I'm watering and the water seems to go straight through and runs out immediately I know that pot is probably way root bound and needs to be repotted.

If your roses were fine before you started using this procedure than I'd go back to what ever you were doing before and they should get better. You can take off any leaves that have already yellowed. Once the rose is feeling better it will replace the leaves with new growth.

To add a bit to Seil's advice (which is always good), the foliage that is most affected appears to be the older, lower, interior leaves. Those are going to eventually turn yellow and fall anyway as that is how it works. As the plant grows, it shades the lower, older, more interior growth so it doesn't receive as much light. Plants are the prefect "communes". Every piece must contribute at least as much to the whole as it consumes or it is eliminated. As the light quantity is reduced by the newer growth shading it, the amount of food each leaf can photosynthesize for the plant is reduced. Once the nutrient levels required to maintain those leaves begins to exceed what they produce, the plant begins absorbing the sap from them, which is why they begin yellowing, until they are drained. Then, they are shed leaving the canes bare. If you look at evergreen trees and many other plants, you'll notice their interiors are mostly bare. This is one of the reasons why.

When your new growth begins appearing yellow like the older foliage, you have a problem. I think your nursery told you to fill the container three times because of how hot it's been across much of Southern California. Many soil types dry out and shrink permitting all the water to run around the shriveled soil ball rather than through it, and drain quickly out of the container. They seem to figure three times filling it should begin hydrating that dry soil ball, so the plant can have some stored water to draw from. It really is quite a bit too hot in many of our areas to hold canned plants easily. What you might consider trying is placing those pots in saucers, pails, basins, whatever you have that will hold enough water for the bottom of the pot to sit and soak for half an hour or so when you water. I bought half a dozen black plastic oil drain pans for .99 each at the local Dollar Store to use for this. When I water pots which appear to have dried a bit too far, I'll place them in one of the pans, fill the pot with water and let it sit there in a few inches of water for a couple of hours to rehydrate. Then, I'll pull it out and let it drain. I don't do it every time I water, but if it's been severely hot and the soil in the can looks pretty dried and shrunken, I will give it this treatment and it really perks up the plant. It also cuts down on the amount of water I use as I can sit several potted plants in the same basin of water until it's all been consumed.

Crisp leaves usually mean it's been too hot and they have actually fried. Being too close to concrete drives, walks, patios, walls, etc. as well as having the direct sun shine on the pot sides for too long can cause that quickly. Until the most severe conditions are over, if you can put them where they will receive afternoon shade, they will probably be happier. Otherwise, what you show in your photo isn't that bad. I would get them planted sooner rather than later if possible.

Yes, you can post multiple photos. It will require you join an off site photo sharing site such as Photobucket, Flickr and a few others. Once you have set up an account on the other photo site, you may upload the photos there, then copy the html code for the image you wish to post here, past it to your post and repeat until you have posted all the images you wish to post. If you make sure your photos are shot no larger than 300 dpi, they will upload and post faster, with fewer problems. It may sound involved, but it's easy and let's you explain, demonstrate and share so much, so easily. You'll get the hang of it. Enjoy and good luck! Kim

Thanks seil and roseseek for the great feedback! I will try to respond to your questions. The pots have good drainage. I used to water until I saw water coming out. As roseseek mentioned, it has been incredibly hot in So Cal, even now. I took the leaves off that were yellow and the first plant seems a bit better, the second plant which was about a week behind in yellowing has more yellow leaves and seems to have some additional problems. As pictured, something seems to be eating the roses. Small round holes! There also appears to be a black "tarry" substance on a few leaves. Any ideas or advice?

Thanks seil and roseseek for the great feedback! I will try to respond to your questions. The pots have good drainage. I used to water until I saw water coming out. As roseseek mentioned, it has been incredibly hot in So Cal, even now. I took the leaves off that were yellow and the first plant seems a bit better, the second plant which was about a week behind in yellowing has more yellow leaves and seems to have some additional problems. As pictured, something seems to be eating the roses. Small round holes! There also appears to be a black "tarry" substance on a few leaves. Any ideas or advice?

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Youl're welcome! Those holes are likely either a caterpillar, katydid or grasshopper which ate a hole in the bud before it opened. The tarry, dark stuff is very likely the bug's "poop". If you can find one of those bugs on them, pick it off and kill it. You don't need pesticides as more than likely, whatever it was isn't there anymore. Kim