Wow - that sounds exciting. No advice from me re what kinds, because I am guessing your conservatory would be much more humid than my zone 9 Mediterranean climate here. However, I know that in the UK they grow lots of roses "under glass", as they say. I'll bet if you do some research you will be able to find books written about how they do that - lots of rose books get written in the UK. I would start there.

Jackie

There's a zone 3 somewhere? Yikes. I'm in zone 10a Florida. Most roses can and do bloom the whole winter here. You don't need to look for a particular class or variety. Just don't get once bloomers :) You can pick any you like that generally bloom a lot.

Your potential problem is that if the temps drop below freezing they won't just keep blooming. They'll either go dormant or die. I'm not sure which because I know very little about either winter rose dormancy or conservatories. If there are just a couple of nights that cold you may want to bring them into the house at night. Another problem is sunlight. I'm not sure how cloudy it gets in the winter where you are, but if it is very overcast and the days are shorter, lack of adequate light could be an issue.

Also if you are going to grow a lot of tropical plants be aware that they are usually more cold sensitive than roses and may not go dormant but instead outright die if it gets too cold.

Good luck on your new project. At the very least you will greatly extend your growing season and the number of plants you can grow.

This post was edited by amberroses on Sun, Nov 16, 14 at 10:48

If you want fragrant blooms nearly year-round, look to the old Teas (not Hybrid Teas) for your conservatory. Seek those which don't get huge -- perhaps repost this on the Antiques forum?

:-)

~Christopher

Here is a link that might be useful: Antique Roses Forum

This post was edited by AquaEyes on Sun, Nov 16, 14 at 10:03

I would first consider the typical humidity levels in your conservatory. Why? The humidity will influence how the flowers open and possibly foliage diseases. SDLM flowers, for example, does not open well when humidity levels are high. If your conservatory is open to the outside air during the summer, fungal spores will drift inside from the breezes.

I would start very slowly, with just one or two cultivars that stay on the small side, learn from their behavior, and go from there. Consider 'Bolero', which has high productivity, good general disease resistance, a strong sweet fragrance, and doesn't get too large to quickly. 'Wife of Bath', which stays petite but has excellent productivity and is just a sweet little rose. Teas get huge--unless your conservatory is vast, they will take up a substantial amount of space.

Thanks folks,

I've been reading about roses, roses, roses for almost three days straight. I had back surgery early in the week and there's nothing like a little pain to focus the mind.
Since I posted this last night I ran across the charming name 'Tipsy Imperial Concubine' and following that lead I discovered the world of tea roses (and China roses). Thanks for confirming that Mr. Eyes. (We still call my little brother Baby Blue Eyes;-)

And yes there really is a zone 3. Actually the all time low temperature for my town of Lone Rock is -53F. It's only dropped to -43 or so since I've lived here, though. The sign that sits at the entrance to the town sports a polar bear. You can see why a conservatory is necessary to live a truly civilized life.

It looks like 'TIC' would be perfect for my situation (Methinks I'm in love already) but I have little experience in these matters. Amongst the teas and chinas might anyone suggest two plants they've actually grown and explain their suggestions? (And I'll try to repost this in the antiques forum) Thanks Steve H.

I love the way Abraham Darby smells, that is an Austin rose. For fragrance, you can't beat Fragrant Cloud and it is a good cutting rose , too.

And thanks for your suggestions hoovb. I hadn't seen your post before I wrote my last one. I've got the humidity issue pretty well controlled. I have a subterranean heating/cooling system that keeps the humidity levels from varying too much with the temperature changes.

In looking at the teas and chinas I see that there are some that stay reasonably sized but having never seen any of these roses the advice of live witnesses would be invaluable. I'm not worried about jumping in too quickly. I'm sure I've killed at least a thousand plants over the course of my half a century in horticulture. (I actually planted my first garden when I was 4.) The thought of losing a couple more doesn't really faze me at this point. Steve H

While I do not envy your zone 3 conditions I do envy you that conservatory! Please post some pictures when you get it all planted!

'Colette' is very disease resistant and blooms off and on year round here (warm end of z9 - rare freezing temps. last maybe 45 min.- 1 hr.).
'Scepter'd Isle' is considered Austin's most floriferous. Don't know about disease resistance. Tall light pink.
'Carding Mill' has excellent reports (an Austin, tall).
'The Mayflower' is touted as the first rose to be absolutely disease free. An Austin.

Check out Kordes' roses.

Not an expert here on this situation but just a couple of things I would investigate further:

1---all roses are temperate climate plants so will need some down time each year to rest. Since your roses will potentially be going all year round maybe some z9 or warmer rose grower can share some insights on this issue.

2---short daylight hours plus extended cloudy periods during WI winter months may mean that you will not have adequate sunlight to get good quantity & quality of bloom. I'm thinking you may need supplemental lighting during some of these winter months but don't know for sure so again worth asking some questions about.

All due respect to wirosarian....

1 -- All roses are NOT temperate climate plants. Some rose species actually evolved where there is little or no frost, and those garden roses descending largely from them will similarly do well in places without Winter. Among the Old Garden Roses, those belonging to the China, Tea, Noisette, and Tea-Noisette classes grow just fine without Winter, as do Lady Banks' and a few others which are too big for a conservatory. I'm thinking that the older Polyanthas would probably also do fine in such an environment.

2 -- I agree that you may need supplemental lighting during the short days of Winter, but only if the conservatory gets less than 6 hours of full-sun each day at that time of year. Before you put lighting in, see how they do during their first Winter on sunlight alone. You can always add it later if you think they need it.

I asked on the Antiques forum about fragrant Chinas and Teas that would do well in large pots -- check out the responses on that thread. And if you search further on Garden Web, you'll see other threads about Chinas and Teas in pots. They've been grown that way since first brought to Europe over 200 years ago, being as they bloomed outdoors until frost (something virtually unheard of for a rose before that time) but often needed protection in Winter.

:-)

~Christopher

Here is a link that might be useful: Fragrant Chinas and small Teas for zone 7

This post was edited by AquaEyes on Sun, Nov 16, 14 at 22:39

And here's another thread.....

:-)

~Christopher

Here is a link that might be useful: Old Roses for pots - teas or Chinas

Wow, I am excited for you. This would be one of top of my list to get when I win the lottery. Well, I have no experience in this and I would say that what would be the worst thing that could happen? If it is not the right rose, you can always try another one. I would say, pick the ones that appeal to you and give it a try.

Re: Japanese Beetle. I hate those buggers. First time I have gotten them this year. I am so experience knocking them over a glass of soapy water that I can do this as a second job.

Great to have a conservatory...congratulations... they are hugely popular here too..

One thing I would be concerned about is the fact that you are planting in the ground rather than in large pots... I would be concerned that the roots will eventually find their way under the foundations and to the outside soil, which in your climate must surely freeze solid for long periods.... I imagine you might find some dieback on your plants as a result...

..I have a cold greenhouse and I'm trying a climbing Tea rose called 'Belle Lyonnaise'... it's perfectly hardy outside here but should perform better under glass without direct rain and more constant summer heat... it will be planted in the soil...and I'm hoping it will reach about 8 foot or so...and preferably engulf me as I sit underneath....I shall have a support for it...

..best of luck with your choices...

A century or so back, when greenhouses were quite common around here, the two most popular roses were Marechal Niel, and Duchesse de Brabant. Marechal Niel would definitely have been planted in the ground. Duchesse de Brabant may or may not have been.

I have no greenhouse but I am familiar with my friend's winter garden that's attached to her house. She grows Clementina Carbonieri, Lady Hillingdon and Francis Dubreuil in pots and lets them out in summer. They flower all year, from early spring, a dream for a Swede who's starved for greenery after our long winter.

Look at the kinds of roses that are discussed in books and on web pages being grown in conservatories in Britain where they also have camellias and citrus etc. So far you have a slightly odd mix with both palms and grapes (and Magnolia zenii, a very small flowered, open-growing deciduous species I wouldn't waste the space on) in the same environment - possibly the deciduous items are going to turn out to be a little incompatible. Since the citrus will have to be kept from freezing much I would focus on devoting the structure to other comparatively exotic fare, including the kinds of roses.

And you also referred to it as >my (semi)tropical Paradise<. as greenhouses containing plant collections always turn out to be too small and you are interesting in producing a paradise effect i would limit the buying choices that appear fit well with theme.>

Hi all,

Thank goodness for Google. I'm able to get you folks' input, read all kinds of OGR literature including nineteenth century treatises on roses culture and buy the plants I want with a few clicks (and a credit card).

Here's where my thoughts and purchases sit at the moment:

For starters I cancelled my order for one HT, a Pope JP II on a 36" standard...I decided that one pristine pope-on-a-stick wasn't quite the tropical explosion I was looking for around a seating area and fountain. So instead I ordered three HTs :-) I called up K&M roses down in ole Mississip and got a 'Fragrant Cloud', a 'Peace' and a JPII, all on fortuniana. I figure that fort should help keep them in active growth during the winter and really pump them up until they're huge and vulgar.

For OGRs I've still got SouvDLM ordered and I'm getting three chinas: 'G. Nabonnand', 'Général Schablikline' and 'Tipsy Imperial Concubine'. (luv that name). The second and third were specifically grown for winter flower production early on so they are worth a shot, for sure.

The above are scheduled for a mid April 2015 delivery.

Now I need to pick out a climber for an east facing wall that'll get a half day of bright sun. The wall's 8' wide by 12' tall. It should be super fragrant and bloom well, particularly in winter. It should have flexible canes so I can train it easily and not stick out more than a couple of feet. It should probably be quite vigorous but not stick out from the wall too much. I'm willing to keep it cut back plenty but if the plant is too thorny it might cause me to shirk my pruning duties.

I really like the look of 'Secret Garden Musk Climber' but will I be able to keep it in check ten years down the road? What about 'Gloire de Dijon' or one of the many tea-noisettes? I don't want anything too brightly coloured, reds are out though I'm toying with buying a 'Annie Laurie McDowell' which is pretty darn bright. What are your climber suggestions and why?

Thanks for your help so far! Steve H.

Hey, if you're looking for a climber, consider MadGallica's suggestion of 'Marechal Niel' -- but keep in mind that it's known to be finicky. Perhaps in your conditions it will do better than for many outdoors. If it was me trying it in a conservatory, I'd keep it in a large pot rather than planting directly in the ground. Another alternative along those lines would be 'Ley's Perpetual', another Tea-Noisette.

Or, if you want something with REALLY flexible canes (to the degree that it will probably REQUIRE support to keep from lying on the ground), look at 'Mel's Heritage', which combines the habit of a Wichurana rambler with the rebloom of a Tea-Noisette (it's actually a cross between the two types).

Have fun looking them up! You might just end up squeezing two in there. And for a real contrast, you could have a purple-blue Passiflora with it. Brushwood Nursery has quite a few. When searching there, click to "show out of stock items" to see if there's one you "must have" which may not be available now, but will be in the future. If I was going with a pale-yellow or buff Tea-Noisette, I'd consider one of the following Passifloras to go with it:

'Blue Eyed Susan'
'Elizabeth'
'Incense'
'Inspiration'
'Purple Haze'

:-)

~Christopher

Here is a link that might be useful: Passion Flowers at Brushwood Nursery

Hi Christopher,

Interesting idea about mixing Passiflora with a climber. I already have 'Elizabeth',.Jeanette', 'Lady Margaret' and a couple species planted. They're not near where the climber would be although I could easily move one (probably 'Elizabeth') there.

What about spider mites? I'm a little nervous about a larger, inaccessible rose let alone one with a passi mixed in. I have gotten mites on the citrus but a little spray with horticultural oil makes short work of them. Are there differences between different climbers or between different roses in general in mite susceptibility?

I read through all the GW fora that mentioned 'Maréchal Neil' and saw how people had difficulty with it. I know it was the classic nineteenth century greenhouse climber so I'm not sure how to reconcile the two things. It also seems like MN has a big spring bloom, a smaller one in the fall but it's not choose too everblooming. Maybe I don't want an everblooming rose? A little seasonality might not be such a bad thing. On the other hand a tougher rose would probably be less unhappy when I hack it way back as will inevitably be necessary at some point. I'll look up your suggestions and see if anyone else weighs in on my climber quandary. Steve H.

You're going to make thousands of spider mites and powdery mildew spores very happy in their new conservatory.

You may have to read-up on biological controls.....

:-)

~Christopher

Here is a link that might be useful: Predator Mites of Spider Mites in Greenhouses