The "snap" test is actually a pretty good way to tell if something's dead. And I'm afraid it sounds like yours is dead.
For future reference, you'll need to water new trees for the first couple of years until established. Especially for spring plantings in warm or dry climates.

i sorta disagree ....

yes.. the part that snapped is dead ... perhaps everything above ground ...

it has been sacrificed to the watering gods ...

in my z5 ... i would continue to provide PROPER water for the rest of the season ... and in winter in your zone.. and see if it might not come back from the roots ...

if you cant handle the stress of wondering about it until next spring.. be done with it ...

mulch it to temper the ground for winter ...

it is not uncommon for trees to go into early dormancy the year of planting.. if aftercare was not perfect ....

as i said.. if it will simply raise your blood pressure every time you look out the window.. all winter long.. it might be better to just be done with it ... [on my 5 acres... i could ignore/forget about that stick for 3 years ... only to come back and find a tree ... lol]

ken

Well that's true, it may still have a little gusto left in the roots. But the tree as tuck479 knew it is gone where it is brittle and crunchy.

Boy this fits someone not far from me.... Could it be??????? Probable not, but if the tree was not watered like so many, then I would say it's very likely completely dead. The weather was pretty brutal. People can be soooo clueless. I rarely interfere or suggest without being asked those living around me (they know I know plants and so will ask questions), but I made a point to go see my immediate neighbors and tell them to water their freaking trees before they completely defoliated and/or died. Guess it's too hard to notice most of the leaves are on the ground or dried hanging from the limbs.

Arktrees

Update: The sapling is gone! Its now spring and its dead. It never came back out of it.

@Arktrees.....yes, some of us are clueless, that's why we are here trying to learn. And no, It wasn't me, my little sapling was in my backyard behind as privacy fence so no one could see it. If you can't comment with some advice (which you didn't) please kepp your comments to yourself, we're not all tree Gods like you. Thank you

these trees naturally grow in areas with moist soil so not watering it during the drought was your down fall.

tuck,
Actually it was advice about thinking about what your doing, and what is happening, and considering what your plants may need. i.e. water new plants in a drought

Arktrees

Ok, thank you. I have replaced this tree with another, this time a 6 foot silver maple and I promise to make sure that this tree has plenty of water through out this summer. Again, thank you.

I promise to make sure that this tree has plenty of water through out this summer.

===>>> dont go to the other extreme ....

water when it needs water

insert index finger to second knuckle.. and water when it is dry or hot ... if hot and mulched.. it will be dry very soon ...

water deeply thru the root zone.. and then.. per above.. let it nearly dry before watering again ...

over watering can kill it just as fast as underwatering ...

ken

Ok, thank you for the advice Ken. I will monitor the watering....however, after reading all of the horrible things about these silver maples I am going to dig it back up and take it back. What would you recommend for a small backyard for quick growing shade that is pretty in the fall? When I say small, I am talking about 17' from the end of the patio concrete to the privacy fence.

tuck,
Perhaps one of the smaller maples like Shantung. Maybe a crabapple, or a Kousa dogwood. If you like Crepe Myrtles, there are selections that get to 20-25' that can be pruned to tree form. How big do of a tree do you want there? What is the soil like? Rocky, clay, dry, wet? All have impact on what would be good selections.

Arktrees

Hi Arktrees, I don't care about height and actually from what I've read it appears that with my small backyard I probably don't want anything to tall because of the roots. I just want some shade from say 6:00pm and on as my backyard faces West. The soil is a little rocky and seems dry. I will look at those trees you mentioned. I don't need a tall towering tree as I live in a neighborhood with neighbors next to me, I don't want a tree that would be a nuisance to me or them nor a tree that's branches break easy destroying property, same with the roots. The tree will be planted 8.5 to 9' from the patio concrete and 7.5 to 8' from the privacy fence. I can plant it closer to the privacy fence if you don't think that it would damage it later on....I know I can't have it all but would prefer shade, fall foliage and no future root or branch damage.

Shantung would probable do very well in those circumstance. Not overly large, and very tough. Might be a little tough to find in Arkansas without ordering it. Chinese Pistache would also work, but you would probable want to get the male cultivar "Keith Davey", as there is some concern about it possible spreading into natural areas. If you don't water the area and it is on the dry side, you might look at American Smoke tree Continus obovatus. Native to Arkansas and rather rare but can be found. Grows fairly quickly, and the foliage is kind of a pastel blue-green kinda of color. VERY attractive, and purported to be capable breath taking fall color.

Arktrees

Ok, thank you. Thus far it appears these are the front runners, would you disagree with any (those that you haven't mentioned):

American smoke tree
Shantung Maple
Autumn Splendor Sugar Maple
Chalk maple

Which one do you think I could find now in a nursery last day of May)in Arkansas? Which one would you shoot for?

or the Commemoration Orange Sugar Maple?

Those are all great choices. I have or have seen them all, and all of them are on my "A" list. But also add John Pair Sugar Maple to your list. Also perhaps BigToothed Maple. There is a cultivar of Big Toothed Maple now, but the name escapes me at the moment. Depending upon where you are looking, I would say you have a fair chance of finding at least some of those locally. I know American Smoke Tree is available locally here in NW Arkansas. Have seen Shantung upon occasion too, and Autumn Splendor. Some nurseries will get these for you if they know they have the sale. Pine Ridge Gardens near Russellville has Chalk Maple. They are small, but that is probable all you will able to get with Chalk Maple. As luck would have it, we also have Commemoration, and it has GREAT color in the fall. Not the fastest growing, but not awful either. Would probable want a 2-3" caliper tree if you went this route. Also it can get much larger, and not as dry tolerant. Legacy is probable more dry tolerant standard sugar maple. But "John Pair" and "Autumn Splendor" will fair much better than any other sugar maple in dry conditions, due to those selections being "Caddo" ecotype Sugar Maples.

What general area are you located? i.e Near Little Rock, River Valley, Delta Near Memphis etc.

Arktrees

Thanks, I am in NWA (Bentonville/Rogers area).

I have seen American Smoke Tree and John Pair Sugar Maple at West Woods Nursery in Fayetteville. I have seen Autumn Splendor Sugar Maple at White River Nursery on the SE side of Fayetteville on Hwy 16. They will special order it for you if you want. If you want to see Autumn Splendor, Botanical Garden of the Ozarks have a number of them planted planted. Do a search on my user name, and Autumn Splendor on Garden Web, as I posted some photos last fall. Shantung Maple I have seen at Bradford Nursery in east Roger's. I got our Chalk Maple from Pine Ridge Gardens near Russellville. Depending upon your lateral space, you might be able to have two of your choices, if you are careful. i.e. Chalk Maple and Smoke Tree

Also be aware that whatever you choose, talk to use before planting, especially if you have clay. Planting seems simple, when in fact there are lots of considerations. Particularly if you spend $100-$200 on a tree.

Arktrees

Ok, thanks a million Arktrees.....

oh, one other tree; what about the Chinese Pistache tree? Thanks!

We have one of those as well. Survived a night in Feb which got to -25.4 at my home after the fluffy 18" snow. Has a bit of trunk damage, and lost allot of small branches. Spread into wild area's is a concern in sum areas, but here in NW Arkansas, I haven't seen evidence of this, but that does not mean with certainty it doesn't happen. Probable does not grow as fast here either, as we are on the north edge of it supposed cold tolerance. Tough tree though. A goodly number are planted along roads in Fayetteville, and in some parking lots as well.

Arktrees

Ok, thanks for the options. I will have to go around to the nurseries in my area to see which ones have what and out of those which are the best looking. I will defiantly get one of the trees mentioned above and will be taking that poor silver maple back to lowes. Again, thanks!!

What a great story...I went from "why the heck did this person plant a Silver Maple" to "tuck you made the best move possible with removing and returning that silver maple!"

Silver maple is the only healthy tree I ever cut down...well maybe a boxelder...and a poplar, lol.

LOL, yeah I had no idea the silver maple was so bad. It was an impulse buy at lowes, I needed to replace that sapling and it said fast growing and yellow in the fall and for 22 bucks I jumped on it not educating myself first. We didn't even go to lowes to buy a tree, lol

Thanks to all on these boards for saving me lots of time, misery and money later on down the road :-)

I have two of the trees mentioned as suggested - big tooth maple and shantung maple. Both purchased 4 years ago from a local tree store that specializes in trees that will do well in my area - central New Mexico. The big tooth maple has been a slower grower than the shantung maple. Both were the smallest size when I planted them - prob 1 gallon size and about 3 feet tall with a few small branches. Now the big tooth maple is about 6 feet tall but fairly narrow. The shantung maple has a more rounded crown (not sure if that's a correct term - but I mean the leafy part) and is probably 10 feet tall and finally throwing significant shade. I have limbed the Shantung maple so I can walk under it without hitting my head on a limb - I really like it and it does well in the hot, dry and intensely sunny New Mexico climate. The big tooth maple does well too - just a slower grower. Both trees get some supplemental water but now that they're pretty established, not that much. I watered pretty regularly the first two years. I have a pretty big well around the base of the trees - past the drip line - and about 4 inches of mulch to help preserve moisture. I have not used any fertilizer but do remove the mulch, add some composted manure and then put the mulch back to add some organic material every year or two. Be sure not to mulch right up to the trunk - leave a little space mulch free. They both came through one of the coldest winters we've had in New Mexico with below zero temps with no dieback.