Hey!

I have a couple Buckeyes in containers, and I plan to release them to the wild eventually ;-)
In my area, I don't even bother with the seeds until late Winter, at which point I go out collecting.
I collect only seeds that have begun to sprout...but not too much, just a hint of the emerging root.
This saves me the bother of storing seeds that might not germinate.

Of course, my area is much milder during the Winter.
However, I have kept seed in pots full of leaves in the past. Something looser than soil or compost
would probably be best. It might be a good idea to raise your trees in a container for a year,
so you can protect them and maximize their growth.

Josh

Right now put them in the coffee can with a mixture of potting soil that is slightly damp (so you cannot ring water out of the mix) and mix them with the potting soil into the coffee can and immediately put them in your freezer. If you don't there's a good chance they'll germinate prior to winter. Then when winter sets in and just prior to the ground freezing, put the can outside if you want.

When the ground thaws pot them to containers or use a huge container and space them 4-6" apart and cover the container(s) with 1/4" hardware cloth or the squirrels will steal you blind. Allow them to grow thru the hardware cloth and the following fall after the leaves shed, then remove the hardware cloth carefully as not to damage the bark and buds and plant them to the landscape.

You can take my word to the bank.

Dax

Storing your buckeye seeds in the refrigerator rather than the freezer is likely to give you better results. Seeds can be stored at lower temperatures, but conditions like moisture content needs to be more closely controlled (for best results) than is normally practical at home. Storing seeds in the veggie crisper works really well for most seeds.

You don't have to use potting soil or compost. Many seedsavers recommend pure silica sand or other inert medium. I personally often use paper towels. Do make sure to use a closed container or plastic bag to keep the moisture in whatever medium you choose, and open the bag up every week or two to check moisture levels and allow gas exchange.

Finnally, planting the seeds directly, instead of container growing them, has many advantages. Some of the disadvantages may include predation and inconvenient access (if you are wanting to grow them at a remote location), but if you can overcome those obstacles, direct planting will be lower maintenance, lead to a better established root system, and avoid transplant shock. The best solution has to be chosen on a case by case basis, but definitely examine your options.

you have lots ... try various methods ...

if you are gathering from nature.. i dont understand why you dont try the easy method .. plant them in mother earth ... restrict vermin.. and let her do the work ... that usually works for me ..

because once i start adding variables .. like fridges.. freezers.. pots.. potting media.. storage.. etc.. there is ALWAYS one variable that messes everything up ...

find a few linear feet in a garden bed ... plant a nut every foot or so ... lay some hardware cloth over it to keep the rats with furry tails out .... and dont be surprised if they dont sprout next spring ....

and if you have hundreds... go plant them out in the field where you want them.. and get some landscape flags.. to mark where you planted them.. so you will recognize them next year ...

also ... take a pot.. and fill it with fully damp bark chunks .. and throw in some nuts.. and put it on the north side of a building to keep them cold all winter.. throwing some snow on them during the winter ... and i will bet more than one will sprout next spring ...

try to stay away from high peat potting soil .... trees demand full drainage ....

EXPERIMENT!!!!!

ken

My suggestion would be to plant a couple where you'd like the tree(s) to be once mature, then place a stepping stone or something over them to protect them from predators over the winter. In early spring, pull up the stones and let the trees pop up and start to grow. Transplanting buckeyes has always seemed to really slow down the establishment of the taproot and the first 2-3 years or growth. I try to avoid moving them if at all possible.

Thanks all for the fantastic input...Josh/Dax and Ken..

Ken, good point about the easiest method...since I have so

many, I'll try some in pots, AND simply plant the rest i

one of our fields and mark them with landscaping flags....

Kev