Tammy, I'd expect any of the Wichurana or Multiflora ramblers to be pretty easy to root. Remember that Dr. Huey is a Wichurana climber with strong affinity to the species. Because of this, it may well be possible to use any of these for root stock, too. I know Silver Moon makes a good one. Hybrid Musks and Polyanthas with strong multiflora affinity should also root rather easily (think Ballerina, Bashful, Doc, Dopey, Darlow's Enigma, Violette, etc.)

Others from your list which have rooted pretty easily in my experience have been, Freckles, Festival Fanfare, Phyllis Bide, Mutabilis, Rayon Butterflies, Queen Elizabeth, Rugelda, and Sparrieshoop. The one on your list I would suggest not wasting your time on would be Lavender Pinocchio. I LOVE that rose, have for over 25 years, but it just isn't a good plant own root. Bud it and you'll love it, but own root, it is a DAWG without a pedigree. Hope it helps! Kim

You have so many roses. Wow! I used to have 2 Ballerinas together, and when I discarded them, there were about 5.

Since that time, I have read about caring for roses, and cutting them back each year even if they look great.

Possibly if I had cut back major canes to allow newer canes to begin, the roses would not have diminished in disease resistance and vigor.

But in answer to your question, Ballerina seems to be able to propagate itself, and could be easy for you to propagate.

Have you considered taking a low horizontal cane, lie it on the ground with a brick or stone to keep it down, and see if it won't take root?

Sammy

That gives me a lot of great options to work with! And I wonder if thats the problem with my Lavendar Pinnocchio; its own root and hasn't done a thing in the two years I've had it! Maybe I'll get some practice on my budding skills this spring as well! :)

Is Belinda's Dream still under patent? It roots very easily. I have also rooted many China and tea roses easily. Are you warm enough to grow them?

A rule of thumb that I heard many years ago is: Roses that are vigorous on their own roots are easiest to root (minis, most modern shrubs, OGR's are some good examples) & roses that are not vigorous on their own roots are difficult to root, thus one of the reasons they are usually sold grafted (HT's are a good example).

The Fairy not only roots easily, but is an excellent garden rose for beginners in many climates.

Another rule of thumb is, if the rose suckers vigorously, it usually is a bear to root. Nature usually provides the way, we just have to find it. The Fairy does tend to layer itself, as will Ballerina and others closely allied to Wichurana and Multiflora. Look them up on HMF and see what is behind them, what was used to create them. Wichurana and Multiflora are very useful for root stocks. You could (if you really wanted) use Ballerina for root stock. NOT that I would EVER recommend it as one, but it COULD be used. Kim

Really interesting... I may try layering with Ballerina since its in a good location for me to try it (side yard), where it wouldn't be bothered by my dogs or the mower. As for the root stock, I have a rose that I relocated early last spring, and apparently I didn't get all of the roots because it sprouted up some new shoots. I'm not sure which rootstock it is, since the rose was at the house when I moved in, but I left the new shoots there in hopes that they were Dr Huey and would and up being a beautiful red rosebush (however, I've yet to see a bloom), its actually worked out well, since now I have some kind of rootstock to try to bud onto.
~Tammy

The Fairy also created many more roses. I was really surprised when I dug it up to see how many plants there were.

Sammy

Most of the Austins root very easily (the out-of-patent ones, of course). 'The Wife Of Bath', 'Mary Rose', 'Tamora', very easy.

Any of the miniflora and mini roses root very easy. Since you have a greenhouse, go out right now and make cuttings and root them without leaves. By spring you will have many new plants.

Some minis do root more easily than others, Dan. Two of Ralph Moore's he didn't promote come to mind. Peach Candy and Softee, though both quite pretty and nice garden plants, don't root as easily as those he promoted in the Sequoia catalogs. Their resistance to being rooted was why he didn't push them.

Many root like crazy, but there are some which can be very obstinate. Not a mini, but if you grow International Herald Tribune, practice with it as it is one which is virtually fool proof. Years ago, in the old Huntington mist table, I put in twelve cuttings of IHT and removed thirteen rooted plants. A single growth bud at the bottom of one of the cuttings, threw a root and broke off the stem when I unpotted them from the rooting medium. I carefully potted that rooted bud and it grew into the thirteenth rooted plant from that pot. What could be easier? Kim

Out of rooting 88+ roses from 14 rose classes, the classes that have rooted most easily for me are:
Tea
Noisette especially 'Catos Cluster' I rooted 8 plants from 8 cuttings.
Polyantha; Mlle. Cecille Brunner and Perle d'Or both rooted easily.
Hybrid Musk ;Cornelia and Lavender Dream, Lavender Freindship.

Ralph Moores "Yellow Butterfly' rooted most rapidly and produced two blooms within 2 months of my taking the cutting. I would not have believed it had I not seen it happen.
It is a very attractive plant, very disease resistant where I live and just under 3 feet tall, and just as wide with dark beautiful leaves, the flowers are a pale yellow and remind me of "Mermaid' with much less bother to grow. -Mermaid's a huge prickly climber.
If I were starting out rooting roses, I'd begin with the Polyantha and Hybrid Musk roses if I lived in a cold climate, and China, Tea and Noisettes, Polys and H.M.s in a warm climate, then after I succeded, move on to rooting Hybrid Teas and H.P.s.

I've found it harder to root very prickly roses, including the beautiful mauve Moss rose 'Eugenie Guinneseau' and Scotch Burnet roses, and the Rugosa 'Magnifica' which I finally rooted easily from a 4 inch long root segment.
I'd try getting a sucker from a Gallica rose rather than try and root a cutting.
I don't have a mister, I just use baggies or bottles.
Lux.

A note: people living in different climates have different seasons and routines for rooting cuttings. I live in a mild winter/hot and dry summer climate and root almost all my cuttings over winter, which probably would give you about a 0% success rate, about what spring propagation yields for me. Each gardener works out a personal routine. If you get good results the first time you attempt to root roses, great, but don't get discouraged if the first try is a failure: keep on experimenting until you find out what works for you.
Are you interested in old and older roses? I can tell you about them, don't know much about the moderns.
This is repeating what others have said, but all Hybrid Musks are easy to root, as is just about every rambler I've ever tried. 'New Dawn' is easy. The Polyanthas I've attempted ('Marie Pavie', 'Perle d'Or', 'Spray Cecile Bruenner') have all been easy.
One of the quirks of rose propagating is that some varieties are easy for some gardeners to propagate and difficult to impossible for others. I've never been able to get 'Mutabilis' to root, and have a poor record with Noisettes as well, which some people do very well with. This variation in results may have to do with the effects of different propagating methods affecting a variety differently.
Good luck, and have fun!
Melissa

I really can't wait to start trying to root some. I may try to take a few cuttings throughout the winter and early spring and see what takes. I think I'll prob start with Ballerina because its already such a large rose and could definitly use some pruning anyway (same for alba, Jeremiah Pink & also Balinda's Dream & Violette).

Melissa, yes, I love the OGRs! I have quite a few modern roses, but the OGRs are my favorites. I just really like the history of them and can picture them growing in gardens for years and years (I always have the image of Marie Antionette in her rose garden).
~Tammy

Just don't lose your head, Tammy! :) Kim

lol...thanks Kim, I'll try not to :)

Okay, here are the old roses I've had good luck rooting. "Good luck" means at least two out of four cuttings taken. Most of these are once bloomers.

Albas: 'Celestial', 'Alba Maxima', 'Maiden's Blush'.
Centifolias: 'Centifolia', 'Centifolia Variegata'.
Damasks: 'Hebe's Lip', 'Mme. Hardy'.
Mosses: "Hunslett Moss", 'Marie de Blois', 'Mousseline', 'Pelisson', 'William Lobb'.
Gallicas: 'Cardinal de Richelieu', 'Complicata', 'La Belle Sultane' ('Violacea'), 'Officinalis' ('Apothecary's Rose'),
'Ornement de la Natur', 'Rose du Maitre d'Ecole', 'Tuscany', 'Tuscany Superb'.
Various: 'Dupontii', 'Rose de Resht', 'Juno', 'Louise Odier'.

What strikes me about these old roses is that there doesn't appear to be any rule about which classes root easily and which don't: it varies from rose to rose. I've managed to root other varieties from these classes, but with a low success rate. And of course there are zillions of varieties I've never tried.
Teas and Chinas generally root easily (though I've failed repeatedly with 'Fortune's Double Yellow'). I have a poor record with Noisettes, which many gardeners find easy to propagate. Last winter I managed to root plants of 'Celine Forestier', 'Claire Jacquier', and 'Bouquet Tout Fait', and I've rooted 'Reve d'Or', so perhaps my luck is changing. A good deal depends on the cuttings, whether they're at the right stage of growth, and whether they come off a thriving plant or a puny one.
I've tried propagating a few old Hybrid Teas which have shown themselves to be ready rooters: 'Lady Mary Fitzwilliams', 'Mme. Jules Bouche' (an excellent Tea-ish rose, common in Italy), 'Cl. Etoile de Hollande'. 'Nigrette'/'Louis XIV', a finicky rose but beautiful and fragrant, rooted readily this last year. A rose I find all over the place here is 'Queen Elizabeth'. I don't love this rose myself because it has no scent, but its ubiquity testifies to its vigor. I have little doubt there will be neglected plants of it still alive and blooming fifty years from now.
Melissa

Thanks Melissa, I really appreciate your response! I have a number of the roses that you listed (Celestial, Mousseline, Tuscany Superb, Rose de Resht, Juno, & Jacques Cartier), many of which I've fallen in love with, and wouldn't mind having additional plants of.

I also have a huge Queen Elizabeth. I'm one of the ones who loves her :) Although, she does lack scent, her blooms are worth it to me, even though she is usually bare-legged by the end of summer due to BS. QE was also mentioned before, for being easy to root, so she is also at the top of my candidate list.

This is one of those posts that I'll print off and keep for reference :)
~Tammy

I agree with Dan. My minis and minifloras are the easiest ones to root for me, then the shrubs and florries. And last and the hardest are the HTs I've found. But I do think it also depends on the time of year. The spring is by far the best time for me. I can stick just about anything then and it will root. During the middle of summer almost nothing takes. I don't know if it's too hot or the roses are in a different growth state but they rarely root. In the fall they will root but then I often lose them over that first winter because they aren't big or strong enough yet to take my cold winters. I've even tried keeping them in my little greenhouse with the seedlings. The seedlings seem to do great in there over the winter and I rarely lose one but the rooted cuttings will often shrivel and die.

Season will make a lot of difference with many types, Seil. An old nurseryman told me years ago as long as he struck cuttings of Mermaid in September, he got 100% take, but virtually nothing any other time of the year. Of course, that is going to depend upon climate, too. It makes sense, too, you'd have better luck in spring with cuttings, not only due to the weather conditions, but the material you're striking has more stored energy in it to help it develop and carry it on until it has enough roots and foliage to feed it. That's very much what I've found with the wrapping method.

To efficiently use softer material here, it requires a mister so they can be kept in full sun to foster photosynthesis, while being kept continuously moist from the frequent mist. Both methods permit them to remain hydrated while spring uses their stored nutrients and misting allows them to continue creating food. They have to have a food source to permit success, no matter which method you use.

It's the same with budding. As long as the scion is in good contact with the cambium, it remains hydrated and fed until it knits. Failure results from lack of direct contact with the cambium, or the stock being too dried out to nourish and hydrate the scion. Kim