The amaryllis need 6-8 months of active healthy green growth with plenty of water, fertilizer and sun during the growing season. As explained by Hans-Werner on a seperate post, for every 4 leaves you can expect a flower stalk (minimum 6 leaves for one) so depending on the number of leaves you can sort of expect how many leaves to get.

After you dig the bulbs in late fall, you can cut the foliage off at nose level (I do it when the leaves die back, but hans-werner does this immediately).

Leave the bulbs in a frost-free place for 6-8 weeks. This does not have to be a cold place and definitely not a place where the bulbs are subject to freezing temperatures. I keep mine at 60-65 F without any problems.

When you bring indoors, repot and water once really well. Then do not water until growth is active or the soil is slightly damp.

Note:
- the bulb must have produced several leaves (ideally 6-8 minimum) to flower and should also have increased in diameter. If this has not been the case, the bulb has either had a too short active growing period, or has had poor growing conditions (to little fertilizer or sun, too little or too much water). I plant mine outdoors in well drained soil in full sun and give plenty of fertilizer and water through the growing season.

It could be that your bulb has become sterile (ethylene effect from poor storage) or is simply a 'dud'. Try to buy a new one and try again. But you need the growing conditions to be good for the plant to rebloom.

Since flowers which develop inside the bulb takes about 18 months to bloom, you should always wait 2 seasons before discarding a bulb. If it did not bloom last year, and you have given plenty of water, fertilizer and sun then it may bloom this year. Some amaryllis put out flower stalks first after storage while others put out leaves first. It depends on the individual bulb (I suspect it depends on the cycle when they were put to rest).

When storing bulbs, do not expose them too freezing and do not keep in the fridge with apples, cut flowers etc. Since they do fine in warmer temperatures (I have a heated basement) I keep them at 60-65F in a cardboard box. Do not enclose them in plastic bags, etc. Excellent ventilation during storage is a good idea.

If you store the bulbs at 40-45F you can (almost) keep them indefinitely without them starting to grow during storage. If you keep them warmer (as I do) then they may start to grow again after 6-8 weeks, and then it is time to repot them. If you want to prolong the storage, this would really be the only reason for keeping them really cool (always frost free).

By the way: you can also try to keep a bulb actively growing without putting it to sleep. This should allow the plant to bloom eventually. Just remember to fertilizer, water and give sun generously. An eastern facing window in winter is seldom enough light. Consider a flourescent light bulb placed closed to the plant, or a sunny window. In summer, plant them outdoors in full sun in your zone.
I find that they are heavy feeders (needs only little fertilizer indoors, but but more as temperatures warm outdoors). When just planted they dont consume must water, but as they grow they need more. Always keep the soil slightly damp.

Good luck

I wouldn't throw out not blooming bulbs... What if in the third year, it decides to bloom? Maybe, if I am very frustrated with it, I'd plant it out int he garden and let it be. I can do it in California. I see amaryllis outside in gardens all over the place. And maybe that is the push that the poor bulb needs to finally start flowering.

AGAIN: It is not the cold storage/cool period that will make your amaryllis to rebloom. It is the "after blooming care" (sun, soil, fertilizer)that you have given it during spring/summer (6-8 months of growing period)that will almost guarantee you of flowers for the next season. The cold storage/cool period is a way to hasten/encourage the scape developed inside the bulb (if there are any)to grow. Thus when you wake up your amaryllis and brought out in warmer conditions, the scape will further elongate and give flowers for you.

With "after bloom care"...

From this...
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To this in 6-8 months...
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Stored in unheated garage for at least 8 weeks...
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And the awakening (2006 bulbs)
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mariava7
great illustration of care. love your awakening pic.

Maria~
Again your storyboard photos amaze me. I learn something every time I see your posts because of your pics.

Tohall~
Thanks for the thead.

Gorgeous grouping, Maria... just gorgeous! What more can I say... I always love when you post photos of your whole collection!

You are all very welcome. It is my pleasure to share pics of my hippies and hopefully help and educate. All for the love of hippeastrums.

I cannot wait for the "2008 Awakening". I'll post pics again for you all.

Amazing, Maria!

Hi Maria,
Gorgeous!!! Simply gorgeous! Thanks for sharing. On the picture that is dated 5/16/07, do you recall the name of the peach colored one in the middle? It really caught my eye. Thanks!

Maria holy cow! Gorgeous! Is that Exotica in the middle.

Wait a minute while I wipe the drool from my keyboard...

: )

Yes, it is Exotica.

Notice how the "awakened" ammies bloom WITH leaves. So much prettier than the naked bulb with just the flower scape of the newly purchased ones.

Oh and one more thing, they do not wake up at the same time. Some are fast as others are slow. It was like 2-3 months of blooms for me starting April. Early summer, they rest from blooming and continue to leaf out. FEED, FEED, FEED during this time. Sometimes I get rewarded with some flowers in summer and fall too. November 1 is my cut-off date...Time for them to rest.

If I can do it, you CAN do it! I KNOW you can! :-)

What do you feed them, Maria?

Hi Anna! Last season, I fed them with Schultz 20-20-20, fish emulsion and some organic fertilizers mixed with the soil and top dressed in summer. 1/8 tsp.per gallon of water every time they are watered. The 20-20-20 fertilizer is not the recommended one for hippies though so I might try a different one this season, one with lower middle#. Raydio had very good results with MG. I will continue with the organic fertilizers. Hopefully it would produce better results.