Since most seeds are started very close to the surface of the soil, I don't think container type has that much to do with how often you'll have to water. The soil surface will become dry fairly quick, and you'll have to water often to keep it moist where the seed level is.

I plan to start my seeds in a regular 72 cell flat, one that comes with a little plastic greenhouse cover... the flat will be set out in the sun in front of a garage that only gets morning sun. By noon, the sun is moving over the garage to the other side, so the flat won't be exposed to the hotter, harsher afternoon sun, although it will get reflected light from the white garage and warmth from the concrete slab that collected sun all morning.

I'll check the flat a couple of time each day, or whenever I happen to be there... which is often as that's where I stage my gardening projects, and that garage bay houses my gardening equipment and pots and bagged soils.

You could always plant your seeds directly in the ground if your climate allows it... watering then would not be as often, I suspect.

Since I already have the cell flats with short covers, starting the seeds in cells and putting the flats outside where they get morning sun only is a possibility.

When do you move the seedlings out of the cells and into what? I have been waiting until I see roots extend out of the drainage holes of the cells.

At what temperatures do you bring the seedlings inside for the winter?

I have no trouble getting the seeds to sprout and grow in their cells. It is after I transplant them that I have problems.

That may lead to another question. When should the seedlings be treated as adult bulbs? Seedlings need to be watered often so that they don't dry out. The adults, on the other hand, should be allowed to dry out (on top at least) between waterings.

Very good questions, all of them, Java! Since hippeastrum seedlings seem to grow fairly slow, I think they could be left in the cell packs for quite some time... my thought is that disturbing the root systems as little as possible is probably best for optimum growth at that point. Since this is my first year of growing hippeastrum from seed, I don't have an exact answer for when to transplant. The more I think about it, though, the more I think that once roots are seen coming out the bottoms of the cell packs, it might be wise to move them into something deeper so better roots can develop. On the other hand, it's much easier to cut cell packs from around roots than it is to remove them from the bottom of a clay pot when pot-bound! Six of one, half a dozen of the other, if you know what I mean... I'm going to look for smaller individual pots that are deeper than cell packs, yet are a bit narrow. Over-potting could be a costly mistake, in my opinion.

With your climate being quite a bit different than mine, I can only tell you that I'll bring my seedlings indoors when the weather begins to get cool outdoors. I'll most likely bring mine in when I feel the need to wear a light jacket while outside... way before frost in my area! I don't want them to have to acclimate to indoor temperatures that would be too different than what they were used to. From what I've read, hippeastrum seedlings should be kept evergreen until they are more mature.

I have a few bulb seedlings in different stages of growth... a couple that are the size of peanuts and one the size of a small golfball... I treat the larger one more as an adult, and the smaller ones are kept a bit more moist. I am careful, though, and normally bottom water them so the moisture is kept at root level. Even younger bulbs have the potential to rot if kept too wet.

I'm not sure what the consensus is, but I think bulbs are considered adult when they are able to reproduce, i.e. flower. However, they will require careful watering and observation for rot way before they reach that stage.

Jodik,

I had not realized that this will be your first attempt to grow hippeastrum from seed.

I'm sure you can do it.

I usually have no problem keeping the seedlings alive for the first year or two. It is after that, when I start treating them more like bulbs, that the problems begin.

In the past, I have started the seeds indoors in individual seed cells. With my first batch, I transplanted them into individual 4-inch pots when the roots started to grow out of the cell holes.

With the 2nd batch, I transplanted them into individual 2 1/2 inch pots. Those were not much deeper than the cells, so it was not long before some of them outgrew those pots too. That all happened before the first autumn. At that point, I put 18 of them into 3 10-inch bulb pots. They all survived the winter. Just recently, I moved the slower growing ones from the 2 1/2 inch pots into a deck box. 14 in a 24-inch box.

My thought is that the temperature of the soil in the deck will not fluctuate as much as it would in 4-inch pots. The other idea is that the larger deck box may be more forgiving than a 4-inch pot when it comes to watering. The seedlings that I just move to the deck box would be two years old now.

I decided to try the bigger container after my success in using a large tub for some adults. Last year, after noticing a neighborhood yard with Amaryllis, I decided to try the tub. Of the four adults, one had bloomed last year, two had bloomed in prior years, but not last year, and one was a bulblet that had never bloomed.

I brought the tub into the garage at night in the winter and when it rained, but other than that, it stayed outside. The plants seem to have liked it. All four have or will bloom this year.

It is this experience that made me think that maybe the seedlings would like more room too.

Java,

I start mine in small, clear covered containers under fluorescent lights. They do not seem to absolutely require light or heat to germinate, but once the leaves form, then need light and lots of moisture.

Once, I transplanted them into cell pacs and left them outside (lost in hurricane debree)over the winter. Some made it, but I don't know how many were lost.

Right now, I have some that are still in window boxes. These are one and two year olds. They seem to be doing okay, but I am doing as you are saying and transplanting some of them into much deeper 3-5 gallon pots. The latter are growing outside quite beautifully.

It's too soon to know for sure if the larger and deeper pots will benefit them. There is also the fact that they are outside in full sun.

One thing for sure, those that tend to multiply more readily are going in bigger, deeper pots first. Those are primarily my Johnsonii seedlings.

Those that are two years old and in window boxes are NOT pot bound, but I suspect they will be by the end of the summer.

With the exception of some very special gifted ones and special crosses, most of the two year olds which will be almost three this winter will find themselves spending their first winter in semi-protected areas outside.

It's simply a matter of space, and my goal is to eventually plant most of them in my gardens where the strongest and most hardy will survive.

I don't think there is a right or wrong answer as long as they are protected somewhat...

I think the key to raising healthy seedlings lies in observing them closely to make sure they are kept in optimal conditions... proper watering, root space, enough light, a well-draining medium... and making sure they are fed.

Yes, Java... this will be my first year of growing hippeastrums from seed... but I'm an old hand at gardening in general, and have been growing some type of plant or other since I can remember! At one point in my life, I had well over 200 house plants in a small cape cod home! Half of those were moved into that small home from a one bedroom apartment!

I've had my oldest hippeastrum bulb, a Minerva, going on 8 years or more... but I just recently became completely addicted to collecting, growing and breeding these bulbs! It's funny... for most of the time I've had my Minerva, I sort of neglected the poor thing... and she's been the most wonderful plant I've ever had! She blooms almost every year without fail, and this past winter, she grew a baby!

Anyway... I was thinking along the lines of orchid pots for young bulbs... they tend to be tall and narrow, and have slits, which would allow the roots to "breathe"... it's just a thought, but I might experiment with a few. The clear, taller cymbidium pots would be worth checking out!

I just planted a flat of hippeastrum seeds last night... I've got a 72 cell flat planted with rows of 6 seeds, each in a cell, the rows running across the flat... if you know what I mean.

Planted are:

2 rows of Prelude x Self
1 row of San Remo x Self
1 row of Happiness x Candy Floss
1 row of Minerva x Self
1 row of Limona x Picotee
1 row of Charisma x Self
1 row of Limona x Self
1 row of Vivaldi x Self
1 row of Delphinium "Green Twist" - a gift from Lizalily!
1 row of Exotic Star
1 row of Lovely Garden

If these do well, I'll plant more... I just want to be sure germination takes place, and one flat will be a good test. The medium I used is just plain old MiracleGro potting soil mixed with quite a bit of sand. I've got the flat covered with a little plastic greenhouse cover, and since it's been a bit chilly, I've got it indoors on a heat mat. Once I see a sprout, I'll move the flat outside to grow in the sun, along with all my other flats of annual and perennial seeds.

I had very good luck germinating hippeastrum seeds by floating them in water, but once I transplanted them, they went downhill and all expired. I think it may have been due to the poor indoor propagation area I have... the ambient temperature fluctuates over winter, humidity is low, and my grow lights are cheap! After losing the dozen or so seedlings I started over winter, I decided to wait until spring to start again. This is a much better time of year for seeds to germinate and grow, and I can do it all outdoors in the natural elements of sun and fresh air. I think this time I will be successful.