I don't use them, but you might find helpful information at the Soil, Compost, and Mulch forum. They have many threads about compost tea. Most there use aeration.

Karen

Here is a link that might be useful: SCM forum

I use around 120 gallons of homemade compost and Eelgrass tea concentrate every year. I make it in a 40-gallon Rubbermaid trash can which sits on my boardwalk.

I use a piece of burlap for the 'teabag,' about the size of a basketball, and swap it out 2-3 times a year. Early in the season, it's just compost, but when summer brings in the Eelgrass, I mix it in as well.

I don't aerate it, but just let it sit in the sun, covered, and add water as I use it, sort of like sourdough bread. I step on it anywhere from 1:1 to 5:1 with fresh water, and apply it with a pressure sprayer, usually as a soil drench, but every so often as a foliar spray.

Marianne
Hi, I've used compost teas, and right now I have 5 buckets of alfalfa tea with some molasses and fish emulsion brewing, I too like Donn don't actually do the whole brewing thing that many do with the areators, etc., but I do stir it up, then mix it with some water and apply. I haven't done the foliar spraying yet, but have inquired about and I'm just not too convinced on that method yet, but I"m sure I will give it a try eventually.
Alberta

Thanks guys. Just curious, how much alfalfa do you use for one batch if it can be re-used, Alberta. Donn, do you cut up the eel grass in any way before adding it to your tea bag? Does it ever clog up your sprayer?

Marianne

Marianne..I cut the Eelgrass into ~1' lengths, but I doubt if it's necessary.

When I add the compost/Eelgrass tea to the sprayer, I pour it through a cheesecloth-capped funnel. So far it hasn't clogged the nozzle.

I was going to buy a fertigator gizmo this year, so I could run a tea/water mixture through the drip irrigation system, but I never got around to it. That will require some serious filtering.

Hi,

I read some instructions for compost tea somewhere that sounded so simple I decided to try it. Just fill up a five gallon bucket and add a shovelful of compost and let it sit over night and use it.

I tried it. I did use it 2 days later and didn't use it all so I have had it sitting there in part sun for about 2 weeks now. I strained it through an old screen and it still is pretty thick so I just scoop it out and add it around the base of plants.

Am I doing it alright? Is it a bad idea to leave it sit so long before using it?

I use an occasional compost tea made from earthworm castings, in addition to the regular fish emulsion feeding. I get them at our local farmer's market, but they are available online as well. On a not-so-regular basis I also make a compost tea from kitchen compost like eggshells, vegetable peelings and coffee grounds. But I don't let it sit for too long either, just a night or two.
The alfalfa/molasses mix sounds interesting. . .Guess I could leave a brew "steeping" out at the garden - it's far enough away from the neighbors LOL.

Marianne
For the alfalfa I use 5 cups per 5 gallon bucket. This year I couldn't find the meal, so I'm using alfalfa pellets, and putting in about 5 handfuls in each bucket. I have big hands, and I'll use the tea, then fill up the bucket again, use it again (after it sits for a few days) the throw the dregs on the compost pile. I have also used alfalfa meal and pellets to heat up my compost piles in the early spring. When applying to the piles I don't measure, just put a good layer of pellets or meal, then shredded leaves and/or kitchen waste. My husband juices veggies weekly, so each Sunday we have alot of pulp left from the juicing machine, that goes right into the compost bins with the weeks worth of coffee grounds.
Hope that helps.
Alberta

I have a couple of old watering cans and simply throw in a handful of compost and a handful of alfalfa pellets, mix and let sit for a night. In the morning, mix again and go feed a few plants, sludge from the bottom pail included.

I started doing this every day simple feeding this year and the plants are reacting with a WOW factor. I used to have a huge bucket, but emptying the tea into a watering can became difficult, so I just made it simple for me to do. A couple of roses which I was having trouble with have sprung to life this year and this is the only thing I've done differently. One is setting buds for the first time in a couple of years.

you could also call your local extension office. they should have all kinds of info on compost tea.
Tanya

Making compost tea for the home garden is fairly easy! As many have stated, they simply steep compost and use the solution as a soil drench, with good results. Making AACT is a little more complex, depending on whether you want to benefit trees/perennials or lawns/annuals/veggies. Actively aerated teas (AACT) work on the premise of the aeration separating the bacteria and/or fungi in the compost and growing them in to millions more. The molasses (among other things) feeds the bacteria which helps them multiply. Kelp and oatmeal (among others) can feed fungi. The resulting tea is used to feed the soil, not the plants. There is a lot of info on the Organic site here about AACT. And there are some simple AACT systems that can be homemade or you can purchase them.. google AACT brewers. If you get into the soil feeding thing, there is a great book that will explain it much better than I have! - Teaming With Microbes - by Jeff Lowenfels. If you really get into the soil feeding, check out Dr. Elain Ingham and the soil food web. My lawn, veggies, perennials, and annuals get treated to my ACT just about every week!
Roses, and other plants, love alfalfa because when hydrated releases tricontanol, which is a growth stimulator. My roses love it. If I knew how to upload pictures on this site, I show you some great before and after pictures! :)
Hope this helps! I'd encourage you to investigate!!
Suzanne

Hi all,

I just took the plunge! I made my first batch of AACT using composted manure and alfalfa with molasses as feed for the bacteria. It will be interesting how it turns out.

Thanks to everyone here for their input. It has been hugely helpful. I might also make some alfalfa/compost tea without aerating it, like Tiffy suggested. So easy.

Thanks again, all.
Marianne

Just wanted to report back that it seems like it worked like a charm. it wasn't difficult at all and I encourage everyone to do it. Now I only have to devise a system so that I can feed the teas through my oscillating sprinkler, because anything else is just too time consuming when you have two young children who don't get as excited about gardening as I do (although my two-year-old was pretty taken by the bubbling tea!). Donn, any ideas?

Marianne

Marianne..when I get around to it, I'm going to buy one of these EZ-Flo injectors:

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(The setup on the left is for the hose bib.)

Made by EZ-Flo.

They make it simple to feed with a sprinkler, or any other hose attachment, drip system, or soaker hose.

Donn,

I like that set-up, however, I have two questions:

1. the bottle does not seem to hold very much liquid and may be more geared towards conventional fertilizers which are more concentrated; and

2. wouldn't a simple siphon mixer be sufficient (maybe even preferable since it just keeps on going until one has no more tea left in the bucket) and less costly?

What do you think? Does anyone have experience with siphon mixers? Are there any drawbacks that you can think of?

Marianne

Here is a link that might be useful: siphon mixer

The big difference between the EZ-Flo and the brass siphon is the minimum water flow required. The siphon needs at least 3 gallons per minute of flow, which would be fine for your sprinkler, or a watering wand. EZ-Flo works on 2.5 gallons per hour, which is more in the range of drip systems.

I'll use the EZ-Flo for both tea and Fish/Seaweed concentrate. The tea will be very strong, and diluted at the 100:1 rate, which will be fine for regular watering.

Another thing to consider is filtration. You should have at least a 100 micron screen filter downstream from whatever device you use. You can install one after either device.

Thanks, Donn. Now, I'm hopelessly challenged when it comes to technical stuff so please forgive me for asking for clarifications.

Here's what I want to do: Water my plants and beds with my home-made ACT in the easiest and fastest fashion possible (and most economical, but I'll sacrifice that requirement for the sake of convenience) using an oscillating sprinkler and some sort of mixer.

I called the company (Morton's) which sells both ez-flo and the regular siphon mixer and the person I spoke to said that it would take 48 hours of watering to distribute 5 gallons of tea through the siphon. That sounds excessive to me. Do you think he's right? Does that mean that it would take even longer with the Ex-flo or would it be faster?

Marianne

Mr. Morton's arithmetic isn't very good.

Most of the brass siphon mixers have a dilution rate of 16:1 at the minimum 3 gallons per minute flow rate and 35 pounds per square inch water pressure. At that rate, it would take a bit less than 6 minutes to pump out 1 gallon of concentrate and 16 gallons of water. Obviously, your distribution rate depends on your water flow rate, but that's a good round number to start measuring with.

The 3/4 gallon EZ-Flo, set at it's "Fast" distribution rate (100:1 dilution) would require 75 gallons of water to pump out 3/4 gallons of concentrate. At 3 gallons per minute, that would take about 26 minutes. Again, if your flow rate is higher, it would happen faster.

It would probably help if you did a bit of research.

First, if you're making ACT, what's the recommended dilution rate?

Second, take an empty 5 gallon bucket, and time how long it takes to fill it from either your hose bib, or your garden hose. That will give you your water system's maximum flow rate.

From there, we can more easily calculate how to proceed.

Thanks Donn, you are great! As for the strenght of the ACT, it really doesn't matter (in the opinion of those in the know at the OG forum) - it can go on full strength or diluted. The main issue is speed. The moment you disconnect the pump from the tea, the microbe count will go down so you want to use the tea asap. And we're talking within hours of finishing the brew as far as I understand.

I could (and I will later on this week when I'm off work) time how long it takes to fill an empty 5-gallon bucket, however, since the water is coming through the sprinkler and not the hose would the flow rate be the same? I would think that it would be less through the sprinkler (but then again, I'm totally challenged when it comes to technical stuff).

But in any event, half an hour or thereabouts to distribute my 5 gallons of tea through the sprinkler is totally acceptable to me. It did sound outlandish that it should take 48 hours!! Bad at arithmetic, indeed!

As you suggested, I have to find out about a filter screen, too. As well as an anti-siphon device to keep the tea from backing up into my water supply. I just bought a timer so I can programme my waterings and this should really save me lots of time.

Marianne

Okay, I did a little research and found that my 5-gallon bucket filled in exactly 1 minute with the hose turned on and nothing attached to it - just flowing straight from the faucet. I guess that would be 5 gallons per minute, then and the siphon business should take even shorter time.

I searched the irrigation forum for information regarding anti-siphon valves, but could not find an answer to my question as to where this device is to be attached. Does anyone here know?

Also, Donn, you mentioned in an earlier post that I would need a 100 micron screen filter. Where do you buy such devices? Do you have a good website per chance?

Thanks in advance.
Marianne

Lee Valley has them both. Items B and C.

The diagram shows you where they go.

Thanks a bunch, Donn! I have just ordered from Lee Valley (and I couldn't resist throwing in one of their rabbit spades for transplanting perennials - what with my WS successes, I'll have plenty of dividing to do next Spring and this Fall!).

I am very excited about my new automated delivery system for AACT and regular alfalfa and compost teas. I'll post a picture of the set-up when I've set it up.

Just wondering, when do you all stop using your teas? I don't want to encourage too much growth late in the season for fear that it would harm the plant. I was thinking I should probably stop some time in September. Any thoughts on this?

Marianne

It depends on the plants. Fall flowering stuff like Maximillian Sunflowers benefit from the tea when they're in bloom, so they get it. I also use it to water in transplants in the fall, figuring it helps them establish roots before winter.

Those tools at Lee Valley are difficult to avoid, aren't they? I invariably add things to my orders, which I had no intent to order. Their stuff is just plain excellent.

Yes, the tools look AMAZING! And they are so friendly at Lee's, too. I called them because I all of a sudden realized that I might have ordered something that I didn't need at all for my set-up and they walked me through the whole set-up over the phone. I feel so silly, but it's obviously important that I don't contaminate our water supply with compost tea!

It may be my imagination, but I swear that I can already tell a difference in my rhubarb plants after I have been feeding them alfalfa tea (non-aerated)! Great stuff!

Marianne

Dear Marianne,

There are many different types of compost teas out there. Some are going to be much more beneficial than others, and some have the potential to even do damage to your plants and garden, based on the types of organisms you are selecting for. This is why oxygen plays an important role in making compost tea. Most beneficial organisms prefer aerobic conditions, while most harmful organisms (think of salmonella, e. coli., etc...) prefer anaerobic or low oxygen conditions. Have you ever reached into compacted soil and noticed it had a horrible smell? This is from the anaerobic organisms that are thriving. It's the same way with compost tea. One of the first rules, if you're not going to do testing in a lab, is to make sure that your final tea smells earthy or has no smell at all. If it stinks....don't use it!

As for the recommendations I've seen on this thread. Some of the teas, for example the alfalfa tea, select primarily for protozoa. You will get bacteria and protozoa, but you won't get the fungi. Fungi is particularly important because it provides much of the disease suppressive qualities.

There's a lot to learn on compost tea, feel free to email me with questions, but the best starting points I believe are "Teaming with Microbes" by Jeff Lowenfels, and Soilfoodweb.com, I'll include the link to the appropriate spot on their website below. Good luck!!!

Here is a link that might be useful: All about the Soil Food Web

Funny I was just about to post about this.
I have a tumbler, and I just transferred all my compost to a can for the front gardens, and the "juice" at the bottom to a bucket until I know where to put it. I will take the lid off a bit so it keeps getting air.
what can I feed now without messing them up? I have a few transplants that just got relocated, and I just seeded the backyard with grass seeds.
thanks!