Wow ARIF...that's like 5 months of dormancy. They sure didn't like that idea of cutting their leaves and roots in your kind of weather. The only suggestion I can give you is to keep them in the dry side for now to avoid rot. That's what I do to "stubborn" bulbs. I pot them up in 4-5 inch clay pot, water once and WAIT. As long as the bulbs are firm I think you should not worry. They will start growth in their own time...hopefully soon!!!

Thanks Maria
That is exectly what I am doing. Keeping them moist and dryish.They are still firm and trying to push some leaves. Havent checked for roots.
ARIF

Hello Arif,
They can't grow new roots until they have leaves to manufacture food. If the bottom center of the bulb [inside the root circle] is rotten, the bulb will die even if it is firm on top. If this is the case, slice the bulb vertically
into 8 or more slices. take off any rot. dip the sections or slices into a 25% bleach solution rinse in clean water.
plant the sections half way into a sprouting mix or half soil and half sand - try to grow new bulbils[small chance].

If they are growing flowers or leaves, prop them up.

If they are dormant but not rotten anywhere, put half in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks[no fruit in the same refrigerator] and replant. Water heavy 1 time around the bulb and do not water again unless you see a half inch of growth on top. The other half of your bulbs hot water hydrate the way I told you last year to make them bloom 3 times in one year.

Bill Warren Amaryllis Study Group.

ewohryn,

You were able to coax the bulbs to bloom 3 times in a single year? What about the growing period? How were the bulbs grown? Also, which cultivar(s) did you try this with? I am interested in your results.

Plant_Guy

Here is a link that might be useful: My Amaryllis Page

Hello Bill
Last year I tried hot water treatment on three bulbs. Only one re-bloomed the other two lost there roots and took a long period of nursing to revive. I see no advantage in such a forcing.
Left alone the Amaryllis here bloom in mid MARCH and by APRIL it becomes rather hot for better blooms.
I would be delighted if I can get them to bloom in first week of FEB.
What is the climatic range in which your study group is working. Are there any participents from your ZONE 13. IF so I would like to contact them.
Good news about 90% of my sick bulbs are showing some recovery I hope others will also revive.
ARIF

Hi ARIF. Nice to know your amaryllises are recovering.
Ewohryn... I am very interested in this Amaryllis Study Group too. I wish you can put up a new post and we can talk about it. I would love to join or contribute, if it's possible.

Warning: Undiluted bleach sud (eau de Javelle) is a dangerous chemical. Dilute an aliquot 1/10 to obtain a concentration of 1 to 2%; that is enough; and use but the freshly prepared dilution.

The common big blooming knight star lily hybrids are not seriously and reliably to bring into the bloom for three times a year.
However, 2 times can be achieved reliably and repeatedly by a carefull husbandry including an appropriate temperature cycling:

Jan: 1st bloom; indoors; 22-26°C
Feb-May further cultivation; indoors 22-26°C
May-June cultivation outdoors; downto 9°C(night) -30°C
July: 2nd bloom
Aug-Okt further cultivation outdoors 8-30°C
Nov-Dec: Reposal period indoors 13°C

Transferring the plants outdoors in spring means to expose them to a steep temperature drop. This stimulates the preformed buds to elongate in order to generate a second bloom in summer. So this time interval can be assigned as a "virtual" reposal period, although not being so apparent because the plants are in full leaf and continue to consume water.

Hans-Werner

Now I know why my Blossom Peacock is putting out a scape. I did exactly Hans'schedule above. Indoors in Jan-Feb-mid May and putting them out in May-June with almost the same temperature. I will still have to see if the weather will cooperate on July to Oct. So far, our summer temp. here in VA is not that bad specially after all that rain these past few days. 80's in the day and 50s at night. My Amaryllises outdoors are just having a ball under the Dogwood tree...lol.

Thank you for this confirmation,
Maria;

for the sake of completeness I have to add that the regimen detailed above is only effective when the plants are well cared for - that means that an appropriate (permeative) substrate, watering according to the variable demands which depend on the actual growth state (leaf area), light and temperature are permanently provided. And, regular feedings, too. And good light conditions are very helpfull to rebuild the exhausted bulb after having bloomed.

After the bloom period a "consolidation" process takes place, and the next bloom initials grow towards a certain stage. Then the development comes to a stand-still, and further elongation and final growth into the mature state are dependent on a period of cooler weather.

The critical temperature which is apt to stop the further bud development is approx. 20°C and may vary a little bit according to the cultivar. That means if plants would be continuously slightly below 20°C - permanently (!) - then they should generate scapes in regular intervals. I read indeed that there exist such cultivars which (were)cultivated as evergreens and used for continuous cut flower production this way.
On the other hand, root growth is becoming rather poor below 20°C, and the general growth will slow down - and certainly, a constant temperature of for rexample 19°C is only of academic value but is is not practically relevant.

The suggested temperature treatment means to extract the maximum profit of the properties of gardener's amaryllis (they are such practical plants): Cycling the plant by transferring to outdoors or into an unheated glasshouse (16°C night temperature works very well) and forcing them as early as possible in the new year again.

This is a better procedure than to winter-store the bulbs prolongedly and then force them outdoors, but it demands that enough indoors forcing space is on-hand. For my part, I do not have spare space, all being crowded with seedlings indoors...{{gwi:413338}}

{{gwi:2393}}

I regret that I can not help you,
Arif - in this "Inflicted" situation. If you HAD some climatized space 13°C (55°F) I would suggest one hot water treatment (46°C / 90 min) , then a dry storage of the sanitized, clean and entirely rootless bulbs for 4 weeks at 13°C, then replant them in a veritably appropriate substrate, you know what I did suggest, and keep them at this temperature until new growth appears. But IF there are already poking NEW leves out ouf the bulbs, actually, than the HWT should not be performed.

Hello
My dorment bulbs were showing no desire to wake up. As they were kept on dry side fearing they may not rott, I decided to drench them. Since then the rains have taken over and they are kept moist.
All are growing leaves. Thank God, what a relief. Tomorow I will take a picture and post it.
ARIF

Hello Hans-Werner
The flower is pretty, The colour and striation is suggestive of PAPILLO strain. Is it so?
ARIF

Yes it is,
and it is one I can assign as an F2 generation and I obtained this grex after selfing my "PapDon#1" (PapDon is H.papilio x "Donau" and I detailed this hybrid in the gallery section, previously; that F1 grex consists of two individuals.

As regards to your bulbs which tend to root in a fair to middling manner I propose to direct your interest on an improvement of the soil structure. Your soil needs to be optimized as if you wanted to grow vegetables or particularly potatoes in it. As far as I can seen we did not yet discuss this essential condition.

Hello
Hans-Werner
Having experimented with Pure COCO,RICE CHARCOAL,SAND and various combinations. I have standeredised to COCO and COARSE river sand half and half (for pots).
My garden soil is canal sand (fine sand and silt) to which I keep adding COMPOST and balanced chemical fertiliser with occasional spraying of micro nutrients.
The soil is well drained.
The reason for the disaster (NOW I KNOW) was over fertilisation (while preparing the bed).
Any suggestions would be welcomed.
ARIF

Oh my
Good that you had finally detected that.
HOW did you confirm your diagnosis ??!
and how did you treat your soil now (or did you simply exchange it)
Ok so far.

With some amusement I did discover within this discussion theme one particular sort of ummh...phantastic stories *ROFL*
Judge yourself:
http://www.bulbnrose.com/Amaryllis/hardgrov.htmhref>

{{gwi:413752}}

Hello
Hans-Werner Confession of my gardener.
I flooded the bed number of times to leech it. All bulbs replanted in it are doing well.
Mrs. Hardgrov had a magic wand and a climatic controled green house. I wounder about the performance of those bulbs after they were completely milked?.
Frankly I havent seen a scape like this before is it normal with this kind?.
One of the scapes that remained dorment for 5 months and was drenched has bloomed and the leaves are also growing.
Better late then never.

{{gwi:388348}}

ARIF

Hello
Bill Warren
I do not agree to your above statement ( they cant grow new roots until they have leaves to manufacture food).
I think it is other way round, they cant grow leaves until they have roots.
The leaves start growing only after it has established roots. The bulb can bloom without roots but will not grow leaves.
ARIF

Hi Arif -
Thank you for this observation;
your correction statement is fully correct.

William might have drawn wrong coclusions from the behaviour of adult bulbs: The growth of new roots is somewhat impeded when a bloomable bulb generates its scapes. However, if you force a completely rootless bulb in high quality substate for example coco fiber substrate you will observe that several new, white main roots are generated at the stage the plant is full in bloom - and the leaves are still very short if present at all.

H.papilio bulbs are masters in rooting through a pot - in a sort of understatement remaining "bare and quiet" over months...at least pretending that if you watch them but from the top...