Mike,
Your temps sound the same as ours near Houston, TX. I have put a few bulbs outside hoping that it would slow their growth down and it has, but the ones that I want to show off are all inside (currently 24 in the kitchen split between windows where they get morning/early afternoon indirect sun). Some of my bulbs had a questionable layer, so when they arrived, prior to soaking, I peeled it off. Others had a good solid dry layer and I just left it. All were sprayed with a fungicide. I use a mix of sand, pearlite, and miracle grow..with a scoop of bark in every few batches. Last year I planted them all in straight Miracle Grow moisture control and didn't lose a single bulb, although I built a poly carbonate roof over the top to protect them from the occasional day where 7 inches of rain fell.
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Here's what my bench looked like in the springtime.
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I am overwintering the bulbs in a north facing enclosed porch on shelves. Bulbs with green leaves are still getting sun, but as they go dormant on their own schedule, they get moved to a lower shelve where they don't get light.

I'm sure one of the experts on the list can tell you exactly what to do, as I am still in my first 12 months of CHAD addiction (I've acquired over 50 bulbs in this first year....it's terminal)!
Kristi

Check you out, Kristi girl! I get such enjoyment out of your bloom pics. I think your Black Pearl is my favorite :-) Oh, and what is "CHAD?"

CHAD is a multifaceted disorder with several synonyms:
Chronic Hippeastrum Acquisition Disorder is most prevalent on this list, although there is a subclassification of the disorder that is more general called Chronical Horticultural Acquisition Disorder. The only treatment is to move to Antartica.
:-)
K

Hi, Mike! Welcome to the forum! If you've been lurking, then you're probably familiar with the potting habits of some of us... I tend to talk about soils and that kind of thing a lot!

I never soak roots prior to potting... although some swear it helps, and I'm sure it does have certain benefits. What I do make certain of, is that I dust around the basal plate and any areas that appear raw or damaged with Captan... after I remove any existing rot, that is. I also add a little rooting hormone powder to the bottom of the basal plate, just to give the roots a little extra.

Some bulbs will just appear to sit there after you pot them up, and it's probably because they're busy filling the pot with roots. I have one or two doing that right now. Sometimes, they're just stubborn... slow to wake up from their nap of dormancy. Be patient. Give them a little time.

I agree with Kristi about not letting them be exposed to the colder rains of winter, or any rain right after you plant them... you want to be the one who controls the water intake right now. They need to dry out in between watering. Too much moisture at root level for too long a time will most likely rot the roots, and could rot the bulb. Remember... container gardening is not at all like gardening in the ground.

It's prudent to keep an anti-fungal on hand in case you need it. Several of us use Captan anti-fungal powder, by Bonide.

Mike, I live in your same climate here in Florida, and one thing I notice is that the bulbs I plant in the Terracotta pots needs a more frequent watering (once every couple of days, depends on the temperature, if its colder every three days in the morning), than the ones that are in the common plastic pots, that I water almost once a week, they do not received water from the sprinklers or rain, I try to control the water intake during winter, summer is other story. As for the rot going on, I'm not the best to give you advice on the matter, as I am new in this blog, but you can find several threads that treat this event, and I recommend you to dig up the bulb and closely examine it, and remove any rotted part ASAP, you won't kill it and eventually save it. This were my two cents, I hope it helps.
Maria Eugenia.

Thanks for the replies.

kaboehm - your plants look great!!! I want mine to look like that. That CHAD is bad news. I've heard some gardeners report hearing voices. That's what happened to me. I went to Walmart Sunday to pick up crossword puzzles for my mother and heard voices. Turned around and there they were - Apple Blossom, Red Lion, and Minerva. Hundreds of them. I started opening boxes to select the best ones...managed to get out of the store and only purchased 15!!! Still waiting to receive 13 bulbs from VE and RC.

maria - thanks, my brain is working now. I suppose I could lift the bulbs if they don't improve to see what's up and replant.

jodik - yes, I've read many of your posts. BTW, I borrowed the 50% pink bark fines part of my formula from Al's mix. I've done quite a bit of reading in the Container Gardening forum on your advice. Captan is on order.

I've used Banner Max and Daconil Ultrex for controling rust on Daylilies. I know a few who post here also grow DLs. Does anyone have any experience using those fungicides on Amaryllis?

Thanks again

MikeP

I must just be lucky, I just stuck my bulbs in the soil I had not too good and very gumbo-ey soil and they did great even gave a few away. Moved up to the Houston area and again just plopped them into the ground and again they are doing great, and hope to be able to give more away next year. Hoping to find a good source for seeds so I can try starting them myself as that is such fun. Never tried to pollinate any. Those that had large pods always had very thin seeds with no substance to them, nothing ever grew.

I only have Captan on hand, but I don't see why another anti-fungal for ornamental plants or houseplants couldn't be substituted. The idea is to keep the bad fungi and mold types at bay... just read the label carefully... it should tell you everything you need to know.

Wally... the difference is, you're growing yours in the ground. Garden culture is very different than container culture, at a more scientific level. It's difficult to maintain a balance of good and bad bacterias, fungi, nematodes, and other microscopic creepy crawlies within the decomposition that goes on in containers.

If you do a little bit of reading here in the forum, you can find some great information on pollinating and seed sprouting. Use the search feature, and key words like "viable seed" or "pollinating" or words along those lines.

Wally,

I do not know how much pollinating I will do this year. My focus is on hardiness, but I assure you that I will pollinate some and you are welcome to some of the seeds. Just be aware that I have difficulty getting to the post office, so sometimes (actually often) I am a bit slow at mailing.

Send me an email with your address and let me know what types of crosses that interest you. I have 100's, and that is why I do not cross them all.