For my sansevierias and crassulas I use:

1 part 'pro' potting mix
1 part perlite
1 part turface (or similar calcined clay product)
1 part pea gravel

Thus far I have no complaints for plants kept indoors. For plants outdoors under drenching rains the above mix holds too much water for my liking. To help with drainage I add an extra part of perlite and pea gravel.

-Michael

Hi Dan

These threads are always kind of amusing to me. People love there own mixes and all that other stuff stinks:-).

I have a couple thousand Adeniums and Crassula growing in a mix that's well over 70 % "forest products" or that terrible 4 letter word, b--k. That number goes down to about 50% when I add haydite and turn it into a bonsai soil mix.

I've been using this evil mix for over 10 years against all advice I see from those that grow nice plants and do well with what they grow. Gee, I seem to grow nice stuff and do well with what I grow. The Succulent Police has made a raid recently and verified this horrible blasphemy :-).

I think we can't even get a majority of people that agree that sand is bad stuff. I never had Adeniums rot over the winter until I added sand to my mix as an experiment.

randy

Randy,

Where do you get your haydite? I've briefly searched in my area, but without much luck. Does it go under a common name?
(eg- calcined clay= Turface, Pro's Choice)

-Michael

Michael,

It is manufactured here locally and I buy it by the pickup load.

Turface is a similar product you can order through most feed and seed stores.

randy

Randy,

I'm currently using a product exactly like Turface called Pro's Choice. It holds alot of water though.

I was under the impression that haydite held less water than Turface. Any comments?

Thanks again,
-m

Michael

I can't really compare the 2 since I've not used turface. Haydite here in Oklahoma is made from a high fired clay. Because of that it holds water.

I don't have a problem with it holding water because it also make my soil very porous and airy (is that a word?). It keeps things from being compact because of its odd shape.

randy

Thanks Randy.

-m

PS- Yes airy is a word:)

Yes Randy,
I know, you get 10 serious C&S people and you get 10 different soil mix recipes. I've seen some of the Adenium and Jade that you've posted. They are great!!! Your mix must work for you. I'm still working on my mix, it works great, kind of heavy to lift, but some far can't find Turface, pumice or anything similar locally in bulk (I go through a lot of soil in a year :-)
Dan
Lincoln, NE USDA Zone 5

hey char -
i'm in austin so we may be in similar conditions.
i agree that there is much discussion/debate over "proper" c&s soil. i've used good organic potting soil forever. i see nothing wrong with it...but it needs some extra drainage. to answer your original question: perlite. dont use vermiculite as it is too lite and washes out easily. you may want to use some type decorative stone on top of your soil if you dont like the look of it. IMHO, you can add pea gravel or haydite or any of the other suggested materials to potting soil...the ideal is aid drainage. of course sux can grow in poor soil - but MUST they? not in my experience.
btw - randy, would that four letter word be "bark"? lol, if so, my soil is also "evil". and i am going to go on the record as being one of those who does not recommend sand. i have found it tends to eventually settle, pack and develop a barrier to drainage. there, i said it.

This information should be helpful, I'll have to see what I can get around here..

Hi Jo

Yes, bark is the word. I use 2 parts composted fine pine "soil conditioner" to 1 part Metro Mix 702.

I think the big problem people have with bark is that it breakdowns over time and compacts. That's true, but your plants should be growing and you should be repotting every few years. Well at least I do :-).

Dan

Coir seems to be slowly picking up popularity across the world. I may try the 702 Coir mix in a small sampling of plants soon just to see what it's like.

I really hate messing too much with my mix. The last few times I thought an experiment would tune it up, it was a big step back and a pain. I made the mistake of putting everything that needed to be repotted in it and it got ugly :-).

randy

About how much perlite should I use?
I'm planning on putting 3 or 4 in a 12in. rectangular pot... That is still considered a pot isn't it...

I use roughly equal quantities of aggregate (eg. perlite) and soil. Cover with a generous amount of grit or the perlite will float up. Leave the pot dry in a shady place for a week or two after potting up your new babies, then water and move to their permanent home.

To keep them growing well, place them where they will get plenty of sun but a little shade in the afternoons. Water thoroughly only when the soil is completely dry. Water much less in winter. Feed with dilute cactus or tomato fertiliser once or twice a year. Protect from frost unless you know that you have hardy species.

Just a quick fly in the ointment from an ex-potter: if this Haydite is made from high-fired clay, it couldn't possibly hold any water- that's why terra cotta pots "leak"(they are low-fired clay), and coffee cups don't (they are high-fired, or "vitrified" clay). It would make for excellent drainage, though....
HM- who doesn't really mean to be a pill, just a little confused...

Hi HM

Haydite is a high fired,"very porous" clay that holds water. It is difficult to smash with a hammer, but will hold water in the pores . I can pour a small amount of water into a bucket with haydite in it and let it sit for a while. When I remove the haydite, most of the water is gone.

Now take your pill to relieve the confusion :-).

randy

HM, various clays and shales are fired into lightweight honeycombed particles for use as soil. The process used is a high-temperature firing and produces an extreme form of the bloating that you might be familiar with when low fire clays are fired at high temperature. Combustion gases produced from impurities are trapped as the clay sinters and the whole thing expands like rising bread. After completing the high firing to fully harden the clay, it is crushed into small particles each of which is honeycombed with tiny air pockets.

I should perhaps have mentioned what these fired clays do in soil. They hold more water than an equvalent piece of solid grit (and are much lighter), but far less than a piece of clay or peat the same size. They are relatively large and irregularly shaped, like grit, thus they always maintain air spaces within the pot. This means good drainage, never waterlogged, but holds some water, ideal for most succulents.

Very cool! I completely understand now...and think I'll have to find some...
Thanks for the clear and kind explaination.
hm