If this is an old specimen, you may want to touch base with one of the nearby American Camellia Society Chapters in California. They can guide you and, if located near you, they could stop by and give you some personal one-to-one suggestions. See the link below.

Hints: An old specimen will have a large and heavy rootball so consider getting some help when moving it. The rootbal should be wetted the night before, which adds weight, so the roots and the soil be moist. Use burlap to keep the rootball intact (some times this is impossible but try at least). The plant should not be transported unprotected in an open bed vehicle because it will dry out the leaves so look for a way to protect the leaves. Yes, have the hole in the new location already dug (you do not have to be exact of course); plan on tweaking the hole once the plant gets to the new location... Do not fertilize at first; use weak fertilizers such as liquid seaweed if you must fertilize. Mulch well in the new location; 3-4" of mulch will conserve soil moisture. Some people use SuperThrive to reduce transplant shock but I have not so I am just passing this on in case you are either familiar with the product already or want to use it. Keep the soil moist and water when it feels almost dry to a depth of 4". Good luck, Luis

Here is a link that might be useful: ACS Chapters in California

I moved a camellia at least 8 feet tall over the weekend. Not the best time, but the previous "owner" wanted it gone or was going to chain saw it down. I have watered it in well, fertilised, and removed flowers as much as possible. I see plenty of new leaves just starting. Should I remove the budding leaf growth? By the way, the root ball was smaller than I had expected although it was growing in good soil. Perhaps because deer had been eating it a lot?

I have 2 that I need to move and I am concerned about losing them. Is it better to move them in the winter, or now since they have just finished blooming?
Linda