I think you'll have a problem with the starter pots drying out, even with the dome. Definitely won't work with peat pots. Please read the FAQ's about minimum soil depth, as well as techniques for drainage and covering.

I'll think you'll find that most wintersowers have the best success with 2 litre bottles, milk jugs, or anything that can carry a "hefty" amount of soil to stand up to our blowy winters.

I'm waiting for more of a freeze up before I start sowing this year.

I resuse them every year.

Just make sure you have good drainage and yes you will need to use the plastic domes with air holes/vents on top. I duct tape the ends and throw light snow on top and then when it starts warming up, you can use clothes pins on the ends for easier opening and closing.

Search for a thread called containers, there is a photo posted of my flats/domes that I use.

Sharon

Hi Janet,

Although experienced wintersowers don't recommend the practice, it is possible to use standard trays and smaller pots for wintersowing. Last year I used trays, domes, and cellpacks because I had lots of them on hand, and I didn't have a lot of--or room for-- larger plastic containers or milk jugs.

Using trays and smaller containers you'll definately need a dome to keep the snow, wind, rain from turning everything into a soggy mess. The dome also makes your tray into a mini greenhouse, creating extra warmth on cool, sunny days in the spring. It will keep the wind from drying out the soil surface, keep the elements from disloding surface-sown seed, and generally keep your seedlings protected.

I use the "high top" domes. These have two little raised "knobs" on top that can be cut from the side to provide ventilation without allowing in too much rainwater. Additonal venting is possible by keeping the dome ajar-- wedging something like a popsicle stick between the top of the tray and the bottom edge of the dome.

Last year, to keep the lids from blowing off I used lengths of elastic leftover from sewing projects. I used 1/4 inch elastic, but I'd recommend something more robust (like 1" elastic or a couple of bungee cords) that can withstand being frozen or wet for several months.

The peat-based starting mix I use has a wetting agent, which prevents surface crusting from being too much of a problem. I prefer to mist from the top and water from the bottom, anyway. The trays have deep ridges on the bottom for drainage, but no holes. If excess water keeps the pot bottoms wet, the tray can be carefully tipped and emptied.

This year we're in a new home with more space for garden projects. I'm still using trays/domes but within a large enclosure protected from wind, snow and rain. Essentially, it's a walk-in cold frame that gets morning sun. It'll be good for the stratifying part, but not so good for growing on-- the plants will need more light. I'll cross that bridge in the spring-- probably end up moving trays in and out of the cold frame a lot.


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Here's a shot of the trays last winter.

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Here's a shot of this year's giant cold frame.

Thanks everyone, I think I'll use the duct tape on the trays and then clothes pins for easier removal of the lids for ventilation. I know I need drainage in the trays and most of my trays have holes that have developed naturally from the trays being knocked around etc. I know last spring I had some Coleus plants I was saving for a friend and everytime it rained I had to go out and take the pots out of the tray and dump it, so drainage I'm aware of. As far as being deep enough, these 4" deep pots are what I grow my seedlings on in, and have for years so there is sufficient room for root growth before transplant time. I want to thank everyone for your helpful information. Any other suggestions?

Janet,

A couple of holes at the ends of your trays will not be efficient enough for excellent drainage. If your seeds sit too long in wet soil, they will ROT.

Also make sure you have holes in your domes too, you'll want the snow and rain to dribble thru and of course to give some good circulation of air inside the domes. At first I used a solder knife by heating it on the stove to make holes in the plastic, but that was no good, the plastic when melted was gooey and made such a mess and I nearly passed out from the fumes! Then I tried making 3 long slits diagonally, that was no good either because any weight of snow would flatten the domes. Then DH suggested a power drill to make perfect even holes which works excellent.

Sharon

Duct tape on one end plus clothepins at the other would be easier than elastics. Wish I'd thought of that. At first I used just clothespins, which didn't hold the dome down well enough, and didn't allow for "propping". Using duct tape on one end creates a "hinge" at one end-- excellent idea.

It seems that my approach to wintersowing is more "controlling" than the norm. I always try to keep rain off the pots, and I try to keep the holes in the dome from dripping rainwater and melting snow into the tray. I find that dripping water causes "craters" in the soil and dislodges tiny seeds that I usually want to remain on the surface. And, as Janet has emphasized, rainwater creates drainage issues in trays. So I prefer to keep the rain and snow off, and water and/or mist the pots carefully, by hand, when necessary.

It is possible to vent trays without putting lots of rain-admitting holes in the domes. You can prop up the dome on one or two sides. You can cut flared-out "Vs" in the sides of the dome, near the top, so rain and snow don't drip in but heat can escape. Heck, you could put your uncovered trays under a little hoop house covered with clear plastic.

Basically, I try to approximate the conditions of a cold frame. This is contrary to the spirit of wintersowing, I know, but for some people (over-controlling, would-be greenhouse owners like me) it works pretty well.

Thank you for all your helpful information. Janet